Plumbing Question
steveinaz
Posts: 19,536
Sona,
Without MAJOR renovation you're kind stuck where the toilet drain pipe exits the floor as far as I know. I'm not a plumber, but pretty handy. You might be able to gain a few inches by going with a narrower toilet...
Without MAJOR renovation you're kind stuck where the toilet drain pipe exits the floor as far as I know. I'm not a plumber, but pretty handy. You might be able to gain a few inches by going with a narrower toilet...
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Post edited by steveinaz on
Comments
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Sona,
Without MAJOR renovation you're kind stuck where the toilet drain pipe exits the floor as far as I know. I'm not a plumber, but pretty handy. You might be able to gain a few inches by going with a narrower toilet...
Just buy a urinal
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Dad's been a plumber all his life and I've done it off and on for the last 7-8 years since I was 14.
I have moved quite a few toilets and I can tell you this.....it is no fun by any means and when a plumber gets asked to do it, depending on the situation it's a crapshoot.
First off, can you access the drain from underneath? i.e. is this a first floor with no basement or a first floor with basement?
Second, is it a newer house or older house? Older houses use soil pipe which becomes brittle over time, the joints are poured with lead and the only way to remove the elbow leading up to the pooper is using a snap cutter and then adding onto it. Sometimes you get a good snap and other times you shatter the pipe. I suppose you can sawzall it too with those carbon blades but even that doesnt work sometimes cause the inside of the pipe is full of sludge/**** and you ruin the blades too quick.
If the pipes are pvc its pretty simple project to cut off the elbow, put a coupling on and relocate the pipe to where you need the pooper. Just remember to always make sure you have the proper pitch leading to the main drain. **** should move away from the toilet, not toward it.
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BaggedLancer wrote: »Dad's been a plumber all his life and I've done it off and on for the last 7-8 years since I was 14.
I have moved quite a few toilets and I can tell you this.....it is no fun by any means and when a plumber gets asked to do it, depending on the situation it's a crapshoot.
First off, can you access the drain from underneath? i.e. is this a first floor with no basement or a first floor with basement?
Second, is it a newer house or older house? Older houses use soil pipe which becomes brittle over time, the joints are poured with lead and the only way to remove the elbow leading up to the pooper is using a snap cutter and then adding onto it. Sometimes you get a good snap and other times you shatter the pipe. I suppose you can sawzall it too with those carbon blades but even that doesnt work sometimes cause the inside of the pipe is full of sludge/**** and you ruin the blades too quick.
If the pipes are pvc its pretty simple project to cut off the elbow, put a coupling on and relocate the pipe to where you need the pooper. Just remember to always make sure you have the proper pitch leading to the main drain. **** should move away from the toilet, not toward it.
This guy is telling you the truth. -
The house is small and older, built in the early 60's. My husband can do some plumbing, but part of the reason he had me get a pro is that last time he worked with our plumbing, every pipe he touched crumbled and he decided it would be safer to just sit in the middle of an empty room and not move.
Major problem right there, could potentially be opening a can of worms.The toilet is on the second floor of a tri-level. There's a larger pipe which drains near my furnace in the lower level laundry area which might be the one to lead to that toilet. Otherwise we have a crawl space.
More likely than not you will need to open the ceiling below the toilet in order to re-route the pipe to where you need the crapper, if it is doable at all. Building codes prohibit cutting of certain joist supports, etc.....so it is definately something to check with the inspector to see if it is up to code to make the move.
My advice, get rid of the toilet all together, put in the giant vanity and just go the bathroom in the sink......
KIDDING.
Good luck. -
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BaggedLancer wrote: »heh thanks, you do plumbing?
I do a little home plumbing. But at work I plumb gases like Chlorine and Hydrogen into chambers at 2200C to make ceramics. It presents a different set of problems. -
BaggedLancer wrote: »Dad's been a plumber all his life and I've done it off and on for the last 7-8 years since I was 14.
We got something in common Mark. My dad was a plumber and I worked with him for several years too. He did everything from renovation work to new houses. Lots of memories, and nightmare jobs...LOL I hated crawl spaces.
If it is PVC, and you don't have to move the toilet much, they did make offset toilet flanges that will allow you to move it 2 inches off center. Like it has been stated, it all depends ..Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
SCompRacer wrote: »We got something in common Mark. My dad was a plumber and I worked with him for several years too. He did everything from renovation work to new houses. Lots of memories, and nightmare jobs...LOL I hated crawl spaces.
If it is PVC, and you don't have to move the toilet much, they did make offset toilet flanges that will allow you to move it 2 inches off center. Like it has been stated, it all depends ..
Hah, yea, he's in the commercial business only, got out of residential a long time ago...just not enough money anymore with all the home depots and lowes and DIY stuff out there! Primarily large bid contract jobs.....car dealerships, hospital renovations, etc.
As for the PVC scenario with the offset flange, it sounds like sona wants to move the pooper to the opposite wall so that probably wouldn't work. Another thing to remember is you don't want too many bends in the pipe before it hits in the main drain, so if it requires alot of elbows and manuvering to get the pipe where you need it then it may not be worth it cause of flow issues.
On a side note, scomp, PM me your addy again, i have your last stack here to send out. -
BaggedLancer wrote: »just not enough money anymore with all the home depots and lowes and DIY stuff out there!
I was helping him back in the early to late '60's (I'm old bud!). I hear you on todays climate.On a side note, scomp, PM me your addy again, i have your last stack here to send out.
Hey, I'm sorry. I forgot all about it. I lost another family member and have been distracted.Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
SCompRacer wrote: »
Hey, I'm sorry. I forgot all about it. I lost another family member and have been distracted.
No problem, been busy myself no I never got around. Sorry about the loss of a family member. -
No, I think I worded the original post poorly. I just wanted to move it a few inches closer to the right wall, to make more room for a vanity on the left.
Easier if its PVC, nearly impossible/not economical if is cast soil pipe. Especially if its lead joints. -
I think there is a scene in the Cher movie Moonstruck, in which a plumber looks at pipes and intones, "Copper." (Expensive repair, money in the bank.)
LOL Yeah, that was it. IIRC he was scraping a paint covered iron pipe with a pocket knife while saying it.
Some counties have code that require copper sewage and drain pipes.Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
BL,
Sounds like you are in college, but plumbing is probably a great way to finance an audio habit.
S
Nooooooooooo thank you. My experience with it so far reminds me why I am in school and 1 look at the physical condition of my dad(2 bad kness, a bad back, and a deteriorated wrist full of steel plate, rods, and screws) reminds me why I am in school as well.
Great money, terrible profession.
Mark
