Hooking up my first polks

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Comments

  • cfrizz
    cfrizz Posts: 13,415
    edited October 2007
    Well that's all well & good, now pick out one of thier matching AMPLIFIERS to go with it. Because without one of those you won't hear anything!:D

    Outlaw makes good products. Although most just get the 990 from the get go. But the 970 will work just fine.

    Read the reviews of it on the Outlaw Saloon site.
    I think I have done a good amount of searching and i think I have found my pre amp. Has anyone had on of these. Let me know how you liked it.
    http://www.outlawaudio.com/products/970.html
    Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2
  • bigaudiofanatic
    bigaudiofanatic Posts: 4,415
    edited October 2007
    Okay I think I just figured out everything. a pre-amp does all the decoding and than sends the decoded sighnal to the amp. HA I think I found my AMP
    http://www.outlawaudio.com/products/7125.html
    HT setup
    Panasonic 50" TH-50PZ80U
    Denon DBP-1610
    Monster HTS 1650
    Carver A400X :cool:
    MIT Exp 3 Speaker Wire
    Kef 104/2
    URC MX-780 Remote
    Sonos Play 1

    Living Room
    63 inch Samsung PN63C800YF
    Polk Surroundbar 3000
    Samsung BD-C7900
  • vonnie123
    vonnie123 Posts: 326
    edited October 2007
    Bigaudiofanatic,

    I would check your owners manual for the receiver. I dont think that level Yamaha will properly support use of 4 ohm speakers; but check the manual for sure. If your receiver has pre-outs to link up to a separate power amp, that would be the best route to drive those floorstanding LSIs. You might be able to find a nice used amp out there at a fair price, since power amp technology doesn't change all that much. Good luck.
    [
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 33,019
    edited October 2007
    Okay I think I just figured out everything. a pre-amp does all the decoding and than sends the decoded sighnal to the amp. HA I think I found my AMP
    http://www.outlawaudio.com/products/7125.html

    OH boy......this is gonna take some work......too early for me.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
  • engtaz
    engtaz Posts: 7,664
    edited October 2007
    Nice choice of a amp. I tend to look at 200 wpc at 8 ohms knowing at 4 ohm it what be greater for 4 ohm speakers.
    like: Adcom GFA 555II -200 wpc 8 ohm
    325 wpc 4 ohm

    engtaz
    engtaz

    I love how music can brighten up a bad day.
  • engtaz
    engtaz Posts: 7,664
    edited October 2007
    wrong most AVR's are only rated for 8 ohms and have problem with 4 ohm speakers. get hot and shut down or blow.

    engtaz
    engtaz

    I love how music can brighten up a bad day.
  • McLoki
    McLoki Posts: 5,231
    edited October 2007
    Keiko wrote: »
    Right...so his reciever being rated at 6 ohms wouldn't cause a problem overheating or blowing connected to a 4 ohm speaker? What I'm saying is this may be a problem if he tries to drive those LSi's with that Yamaha AVR. ???

    Yes it may be a problem with his AVR. The ohm rating of a speaker is resistance and a certain amount of resistance is always required to maintain control and not overheat.

    Think of it as running down a hill. (just came up with this one and no coffee yet, so it may make no sense whatsoever) Your AVR is the person running and the incline of the hill is the resisance or ohm rating of your speaker.

    With a slight incline, most people can run down a hill. As the hill gets steeper (ohm rating of the speaker drops) the resistance to running gets less and there is a better and better chance of running out of control, arms pinwheeling, and a crash somewhere on the hill. (out of control = clipping, Arms pinwheeling = heat, crash = damage)

    Its early and that is the best I can come up with before coffee.

    Michael
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)
  • bigaudiofanatic
    bigaudiofanatic Posts: 4,415
    edited October 2007
    Great sense to me to. Plus I understand more now than ever I have been doing reserch about audio. I do have another question though. If o to say i would still use my Yamaha to decode the audio but then send it to the new amp via rca patch cables i wouldnt get dolby digital would i? I GET A LOT NOW MORE THAN I USE TO. HA ordered a book its called Introductory Guide to High-Performance Audio Systems: Stereo. Here is the link. http://www.amazon.com/Introductory-Guide-High-Performance-Audio-Systems/dp/0978649303/ref=pd_bbs_2/002-6611714-1004817?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1193012298&sr=1-2
    HT setup
    Panasonic 50" TH-50PZ80U
    Denon DBP-1610
    Monster HTS 1650
    Carver A400X :cool:
    MIT Exp 3 Speaker Wire
    Kef 104/2
    URC MX-780 Remote
    Sonos Play 1

    Living Room
    63 inch Samsung PN63C800YF
    Polk Surroundbar 3000
    Samsung BD-C7900
  • McLoki
    McLoki Posts: 5,231
    edited October 2007
    If your yamaha had RCA preouts - that is exactly what you would do. (yamaha would switch inputs, control volume, decode DTS and DD, etc.) you would plug the RCA out to your amp and then plug your speakers into your amp (not into your reciever)

    That would require that your AVR has pre-outs, but I don't think it does. (they would be RCA outputs in about the same place as your subwoofer.)

    Michael
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)
  • bigaudiofanatic
    bigaudiofanatic Posts: 4,415
    edited October 2007
    Yeap I know that now it does not so in a couple of weeks I am going to take the big step and buy my first outlaws.anysugestions an speaker wire i have monster cable. Will that be enough.
    HT setup
    Panasonic 50" TH-50PZ80U
    Denon DBP-1610
    Monster HTS 1650
    Carver A400X :cool:
    MIT Exp 3 Speaker Wire
    Kef 104/2
    URC MX-780 Remote
    Sonos Play 1

    Living Room
    63 inch Samsung PN63C800YF
    Polk Surroundbar 3000
    Samsung BD-C7900
  • McLoki
    McLoki Posts: 5,231
    edited October 2007
    Upgrading speaker wire at this point is kind of putting the cart before the horse. What you have will be fine until the rest of your system gets in place.
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)
  • bigaudiofanatic
    bigaudiofanatic Posts: 4,415
    edited October 2007
    SWEET can not wait to get this up and running. NOW just planning ahead hum christmas but is my psw10 going to be to small to compete with my LSi15's
    HT setup
    Panasonic 50" TH-50PZ80U
    Denon DBP-1610
    Monster HTS 1650
    Carver A400X :cool:
    MIT Exp 3 Speaker Wire
    Kef 104/2
    URC MX-780 Remote
    Sonos Play 1

    Living Room
    63 inch Samsung PN63C800YF
    Polk Surroundbar 3000
    Samsung BD-C7900
  • McLoki
    McLoki Posts: 5,231
    edited October 2007
    SWEET can not wait to get this up and running. NOW just planning ahead hum christmas but is my psw10 going to be to small to compete with my LSi15's

    Think of it this way - Polk Audio makes some of the best bang for the buck speakers available (in my opinion). Until this year (supposedly) their weakest link has been home theater subwoofers. They can turn subwoofers out cheap (cheap enough to give away with a x $ purchase) but compared to the rest of their line - they are not that high in the bang for the buck arena.

    You are pairing their flagship speaker (and awesome in the bang for the buck arena) with their cheapest subwoofer (from a company that struggles with subs).

    In case you still don't understand - that is the long version of your new speakers rock and you may be better running them without the crap sub you got with them.

    Right now in the bang for the buck arena look at subs from SVS, HSU, Epic and Outlaw. (There are others, but off the top of my head, all those are good names to look at)

    Michael
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)
  • bigaudiofanatic
    bigaudiofanatic Posts: 4,415
    edited October 2007
    Taking a look now Thanks Michael
    HT setup
    Panasonic 50" TH-50PZ80U
    Denon DBP-1610
    Monster HTS 1650
    Carver A400X :cool:
    MIT Exp 3 Speaker Wire
    Kef 104/2
    URC MX-780 Remote
    Sonos Play 1

    Living Room
    63 inch Samsung PN63C800YF
    Polk Surroundbar 3000
    Samsung BD-C7900
  • McLoki
    McLoki Posts: 5,231
    edited October 2007
    Here are some links to help your search.

    Epik Subwoofers

    Outlaw Subs

    SVS Subwoofers

    HSU Subs

    Ed subs are getting good reviews as well...

    Really once you get to a certain level (ability to play quality bass at 20 hz or below) - it comes down to how large is your room....
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)
  • bigaudiofanatic
    bigaudiofanatic Posts: 4,415
    edited October 2007
    At a glance the Outlaw LFM-1 EX is looking good right now but reaserch is the key
    HT setup
    Panasonic 50" TH-50PZ80U
    Denon DBP-1610
    Monster HTS 1650
    Carver A400X :cool:
    MIT Exp 3 Speaker Wire
    Kef 104/2
    URC MX-780 Remote
    Sonos Play 1

    Living Room
    63 inch Samsung PN63C800YF
    Polk Surroundbar 3000
    Samsung BD-C7900
  • zx_toth
    zx_toth Posts: 417
    edited October 2007
    Okay I think I just figured out everything. a pre-amp does all the decoding and than sends the decoded sighnal to the amp. HA I think I found my AMP
    http://www.outlawaudio.com/products/7125.html

    Heres one for ya .....

    http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?ampsmult&1198191754
  • bigaudiofanatic
    bigaudiofanatic Posts: 4,415
    edited October 2007
    Little to much money for me right now
    HT setup
    Panasonic 50" TH-50PZ80U
    Denon DBP-1610
    Monster HTS 1650
    Carver A400X :cool:
    MIT Exp 3 Speaker Wire
    Kef 104/2
    URC MX-780 Remote
    Sonos Play 1

    Living Room
    63 inch Samsung PN63C800YF
    Polk Surroundbar 3000
    Samsung BD-C7900
  • McLoki
    McLoki Posts: 5,231
    edited October 2007
    zx_toth wrote: »

    If that was going to work, I would just look at this one and save the $300.

    Michael
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)
  • john22614
    john22614 Posts: 214
    edited October 2007
    I tried the 970 and liked the sound, but despite a recent firmware update, it had problems with the audio going off every few days or so. I ended up exchanging it for the 990 which sounds even better and does not have that propblem. It is a very stable performer. But, you need to make sure you have room for it because it is big. Outlaw is having a sale on them this month for $799.....a steal for something of this quality. I think they're even less when combined with one of their amps. Anyway, the Outlaw pre's have a beautiful sound stage and outstanding sonic qualities. I noticed a huge differnce in depth, clarity, bass tones, etc when I went from my Yamaha used as a pre to the Outlaw. The Yammie, on certain musical passages, sounded kind of lifeless, flat and tiny by comparison and the bass sounded muddy comared to the Outlaw.
    B&W 804s mains
    B&W HTM4 center
    Polk PSW 1000 sub
    Outlaw 990 Pre Amp
    Anthem MCA 30 Amp
    Monitor Radius 180 surrounds
    Audiosource Stereo Amp for surrounds
    Denon 2910 Universal DVD/SACD Player
    Comcast DVR
    Pioneer Elite 42" Plasma 940 HD
    Harmony Universal Remote
    Blue Jeans interconnects and biwires
    Itunes Air Express
  • AndyGwis
    AndyGwis Posts: 3,655
    edited October 2007
    BigAudioFantatic,

    I'd grab a beefy AVR off Agon and be done with it. Unless you want to make the plunge into Outlaw separates and spend $2K+, and add in more cables, space, etc., I would get a solid AVR like NAD, B&K, etc. off Agon.

    I can give you some examples, if you like. Might be an easier and cheaper option for a noob like you.
    Stereo Rig: Hales Revelation 3, Musical Fidelity CD-Pre 24, Forte Model 3 amp, Lexicon RT-10 SACD, MMF-5 w/speedbox, Forte Model 2 Phono Pre, Cardas Crosslink, APC H15, URC MX-950, Lovan Stand
    Bedroom: Samsung HPR-4252, Toshiba HD-A2, HK 3480, Signal Cable, AQ speaker cable, Totem Dreamcatchers, SVS PB10-NSD, URC MX-850
  • bigaudiofanatic
    bigaudiofanatic Posts: 4,415
    edited October 2007
    Do you have a website I googled it nothing came up.
    HT setup
    Panasonic 50" TH-50PZ80U
    Denon DBP-1610
    Monster HTS 1650
    Carver A400X :cool:
    MIT Exp 3 Speaker Wire
    Kef 104/2
    URC MX-780 Remote
    Sonos Play 1

    Living Room
    63 inch Samsung PN63C800YF
    Polk Surroundbar 3000
    Samsung BD-C7900
  • McLoki
    McLoki Posts: 5,231
    edited October 2007
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)
  • bigaudiofanatic
    bigaudiofanatic Posts: 4,415
    edited October 2007
    Great Thanks
    HT setup
    Panasonic 50" TH-50PZ80U
    Denon DBP-1610
    Monster HTS 1650
    Carver A400X :cool:
    MIT Exp 3 Speaker Wire
    Kef 104/2
    URC MX-780 Remote
    Sonos Play 1

    Living Room
    63 inch Samsung PN63C800YF
    Polk Surroundbar 3000
    Samsung BD-C7900