looking for spikes for my SDA2B

danger boy

I did a search and while I know this has been talked about on here before.. I wasn't able to come up with the info on where I can find some spikes for my 2B's and how they would attach to the bottom cap of them.

so I could use some help on which ones I should look at.

I'd like to keep this under $100 if I can.

suggestions are welcome!
advice needed.

RuSsMaN

Does the 2b not have threaded inserts in the bottom?

strider

I know MillerLiteScott spiked his not too long ago, but I'm not certain what he used. If you don't here from anyone else, you may want to pm him as I think he's out of town right now.

woofiepaws

Try here:

http://www.oregondv.com/spikes.htm

I have some of their spikes under my SRSs.

ka7niq

woofiepaws wrote: »

Try here:

http://www.oregondv.com/spikes.htm

I have some of their spikes under my SRSs.

Thanks Woofie!
A great place you have turned us all onto, good stuff, great prices too

joeparaski

Here, try this, I ordered mine from there. http://www.canuckaudiomart.com/details/66285-isolation_cone_set_of_4/

Joe

Stew

I used SRS spikes from Polk (RF1400-1) with 1/4-20 threaded inserts from Lowe's on my 2b's. They're relatively easy to install (Drill 4 holes in the endcap, install the inserts with a hex key, thread the spikes into the inserts. Once height is adjusted, tighten nuts on spikes against inserts to lock.). They're easy to adjust and very inexpensive (Total cost for both speakers around $6.00).

danger boy

Stew wrote: »

I used SRS spikes from Polk (RF1400-1) with 1/4-20 threaded inserts from Lowe's on my 2b's. They're relatively easy to install (Drill 4 holes in the endcap, install the inserts with a hex key, thread the spikes into the inserts. Once height is adjusted, tighten nuts on spikes against inserts to lock.). They're easy to adjust and very inexpensive (Total cost for both speakers around $6.00).

hey if it's not to much trouble.. can you post a picture here of what the finished spikes on the SDA's look like? It would be much appreciated.

thanks

Stew

Sooner or later, I'm going to have to buy a digital camera! For now, I stole the following image from an old post by DarqueKnight. The spikes are black, so you really can't see them unless you put your face on the carpet next to the speaker. This picture show's the inserts and spikes but not the lock nut. I think they came with a nut but, if not, I added one.

danger boy

so after you drilled the hole, and inserted the metal insert.. is that insert threaded too? then you just screw in the spike? I think I understand that part.

Stew

The insert has a coarse wood thread on the outside and a 1/4-20 thread on the inside. You screw the insert into the base with an allen wrench. The spike then threads into the insert. If you install a 1/4-20 nut onto the spike first, you can tighten the nut against the insert to lock in place once adjusted correctly. I think the spikes came with a 1/4-20 nut.

Just make sure you drill the holes straight! I found a bushing with a hole slightly larger than the drill bit and held that against the base while drilling. I also marked the drill bit with a sharpie to make sure it didn't go all the way through the cabinet. Other than some very minor splintering of the veneer around the insert, it turned out great.

heiney9

Try parts express as well. Rich gave me a set to install on my 1C's and they came from PE. In the end I decided not to drill holes in the oak for spikes.

H9

danger boy

the bottom oak cap on the 2B's isn't solid oak, it's pressed wood with oak trim only. the top cap is solid oak. why did they chump out on the bottom caps?

F1nut

The top and bottom end caps are the same, veneer over MDF.

danger boy

the bottom yes.. the top. sure feels like solid wood to me.. even the chip out of it. i can see the grain. oh hell. i'm going to be drilling the bottom end anyways. not the top.

MillerLiteScott

I spiked my 2B's with the spikes from Parts Express, @ $40. Mostly because I could not afford to get the Mayes(SP) spikes. I would rather put my money into the crossovers at this point. I can always get them down the road and use the Parts Express spikes on another pair of speakers.

The ones from Parts Express are not 1/4 20 threads. I think they are 10-32 which is the @ the same diameter but a finer thread.

danger boy

MillerLiteScott wrote: »

I spiked my 2B's with the spikes from Parts Express, @ $40. Mostly because I could not afford to get the Mayes(SP) spikes. I would rather put my money into the crossovers at this point. I can always get them down the road and use the Parts Express spikes on another pair of speakers.

The ones from Parts Express are not 1/4 20 threads. I think they are 10-32 which is the @ the same diameter but a finer thread.

what do the numbers mean? 1/4 20 should I buy the spikes first then find the right hardware to use with them before drilling the holes?

MillerLiteScott

The first number is the size of the screw/threaded rod and the second number is the number of threads per inch. The Parts Express comes with the inserts. I am not sure about other suppliers. But from what I have read most of them are 1/4 -20.

Here are some pictures of the 2B's spiked. It is hard to take the picture to show them and the are on my storage side of my basement right now.

Looks like I bent one.

MillerLiteScott

danger boy wrote: »

what do the numbers mean? 1/4 20 should I buy the spikes first then find the right hardware to use with them before drilling the holes?

Yes.

heiney9

danger boy wrote: »

what do the numbers mean? 1/4 20 should I buy the spikes first then find the right hardware to use with them before drilling the holes?

My guess is 1/4 spike "20" referring to the thread count. Higher number means finer threads. The spikes come with their own treaded sleeves so they will match up with the spikes.

I believe PE has 2 different sizes of spikes. Since it's a large heavy speaker I'd go with the biggest ones which are the 1/4" I think.

H9

hearingimpared

IMHO these are the best brass spikes on the market. I use the middle point on the 1.2 TLs but F1nut has the bigguns on his SDAs. I plan on taking the spikes I currently have on the 1.2TLs moving them over to the CRS+ stands and getting the bigguns on the 1.2TLs.

danger boy

hearingimpared wrote: »

IMHO these are the best brass spikes on the market. I use the middle point on the 1.2 TLs but F1nut has the bigguns on his SDAs. I plan on taking the spikes I currently have on the 1.2TLs moving them over to the CRS+ stands and getting the bigguns on the 1.2TLs.

spiking your stands? that seems a bit odd to me..

hearingimpared

danger boy wrote: »

spiking your stands? that seems a bit odd to me..

Then you better call Matt and tell him so, the stands come with real **** spikes!!!;) If you think about it Al it makes all the sense in the world. The stands are really just extensions of the CRSs and they are spiked to the floor through the stands.

SCompRacer

heiney9 wrote: »

Rich gave me a set to install on my 1C's and they came from PE. In the end I decided not to drill holes in the oak for spikes.

You gotta give em back then.:rolleyes:

What did you use for that missing foot? IIRC, they were nailed on?

heiney9

SCompRacer wrote: »

You gotta give em back then.:rolleyes:

What did you use for that missing foot? IIRC, they were nailed on?

I used the spikes in the pair of stands my 5b's sit on (they already had the threaded inserts in the bottom plate), so they didn't go to waste . What foot ? If it's missing, it's not noticeable at all.

SCompRacer

heiney9 wrote: »

If it's missing, it's not noticeable at all.

They were not very thick. They looked like convex plastic bumps.