VMPS Subwoofer Purchase
Comments
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I'll tell you what I love this sub with the passive I have. It is the upgraded passive, and can shake my couch and be extremely accurate with music as well. What a great sub!!!
Well said JAC. -
I need Vicodin, Tramadol is for dogs!:mad::biggrin:
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Congrats on your new sub. I'm hoping someone can help me tune mine.
I was finally was able to pick up a VMPS sub. I got the New Larger Sub based on positive reviews, low distortion, and VMPS's advertising of hitting 100+ db at 20 hz, and being able to reach down to 17 hz.
The sub does sound clean at 30 hz and above, but I'm not getting much response at the 20-25 hz range and nothing at 17 hz. The subs are moving furiously, but I cant feel any bass in my body, the walls have no vibration in them. It really doesn't do much till i get above 25-30 hz.
I really want to hit the lower stuff as advertised. The sub is the older version like shown on the VMPS website it has the megawoofers (12in carbon fiber & 15in poly with phase plugs). The PR is the paper version with all the original putty still attached. I am running 240 wpc rms to each sub. The sub is on a carpeted floor, in a small 1500 cubic foot room.
Thanks in advance for any info. -
How are you measuring it? Proximity to sub, etc..."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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what meter are you using, and do you what the frequency range of it is?
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Check for leaks. You should be able to clearly feel a 17Hz signal through that beast.~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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Check for leaks. You should be able to clearly feel a 17Hz signal through that beast.
Depending on the sub's placement and from where he's measuring in the room."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche -
Thanks for the quick responses! This thing does sound good i just want to get the most out of it's range.How are you measuring it? Proximity to sub, etc...dudeinaroom wrote: »what meter are you using, and do you what the frequency range of it is?
I'm measuring with a radio shack analog sound level meter. The sub is corner loaded about 13 ft from the listing position. I have been using test tones from a bass mekanik CD, it gives me cycles starting at 10 hz (This is were I feel nothing at 17 and next to nothing at 20). I also found a computer program called Room EQ Wizard V5. The software lets me take sweep measurements, and shows the hz & db's. I am sweeping between 0- 40hz (its hard to tell what hz i am feeling here it sweeps pretty quick). I don't have the software completely figured out yet.Check for leaks. You should be able to clearly feel a 17Hz signal through that beast.
There is a lot of air moving at the PR. I don't see any tears or anything, but i will inspect it closer. From what other people were saying i was really expecting to feel it at the 17+ zone. -
You're measuring how the sub interacts with the room, not the sub itself. Try measuring a few inches from the passive radiator and driver."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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You're measuring how the sub interacts with the room, not the sub itself. Try measuring a few inches from the passive radiator and driver.
I just took the new measurements. With the meter a few inches from the driver and PR I get strong numbers.
17hz
90 db about 3 inches from driver
104 db about 3 inches from PR
20hz
94 db about 3 inches from driver
109 db about 3 inches from PR
The volume was at about 3/4's high. I watch movies at this volume
As i move away from the sub the db's drop quick. 6 feet from the sub the its hitting 78 db @ 20 hz. So the sub is hitting correctly? I am a noob
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I just took the new measurements. With the meter a few inches from the driver and PR I get strong numbers.
17hz
90 db about 3 inches from driver
104 db about 3 inches from PR
20hz
94 db about 3 inches from driver
109 db about 3 inches from PR
The volume was at about 3/4's high. I watch movies at this volume
As i move away from the sub the db's drop quick. 6 feet from the sub the its hitting 78 db @ 20 hz. So the sub is hitting correctly? I am a noob
Then your room is the culprit. Can you try the sub a different locations? -
Have you tried messing with phase at all? Sounds like you are getting cancelations.- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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Also I highly recommend wiring your subs together for a 4 ohm load and throwing 750 watts at that sub. You are under powering it a bit.
Crown XLS1000 is excellent for this application- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit. -
Conradicles wrote: »Then your room is the culprit. Can you try the sub a different locations?
I had a feeling that i did not know what the hell i was doing. With such a small room i figured the sub would be fine anywhere. The rooms 12x16x8. I am limited on placement due to the size of the room. I will get some longer speaker wire and experiment with moving the sub. Thanks everyone for taking the time to help. -
Vr3MxStyler2k3 wrote: »Have you tried messing with phase at all? Sounds like you are getting cancelations.
I have not messed with the phase. Not sure how to go about it. Do i reverse the speaker wires? -
Vr3MxStyler2k3 wrote: »Also I highly recommend wiring your subs together for a 4 ohm load and throwing 750 watts at that sub. You are under powering it a bit.
Crown XLS1000 is excellent for this application
Yeah i wanted to bridge the amp and hit the speaker with the full 750, but when i bridge the amp it runs 750 watts @ 8ohms. Will i fry the amp if i run it bridged into a 4 ohm load? its a samson a700 amp. -
Yeah i wanted to bridge the amp and hit the speaker with the full 750, but when i bridge the amp it runs 750 watts @ 8ohms. Will i fry the amp if i run it bridged into a 4 ohm load? its a samson a700 amp.
If it's only rated for 8ohm operation while bridged, you could fry it with a 4ohm load."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche -
There is some great info here:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=elan1uhbehhqscmqifd7m2f90ff4svil&board=39.0
I think you still need to tune that sub with putty on the passive radiator for best results. I have never did it myself, but it sounds pretty easy. Hang in there and you will get it figured out.
Also welcome to the forum! -
Vr3MxStyler2k3 wrote: »Have you tried messing with phase at all? Sounds like you are getting cancelations.
This was a BIG help! I reversed the wires and the sub sounds much cleaner. The 15 inch had a slight pop/cracking sound to it before now it sounds great. The 17-20 hz is more prominent. It still does not feel like its going to rip the floor boards out, but its getting closer. You have no idea how much help you guy have been. Thank you -
Conradicles wrote: »There is some great info here:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=elan1uhbehhqscmqifd7m2f90ff4svil&board=39.0
I think you still need to tune that sub with putty on the passive radiator for best results. I have never did it myself, but it sounds pretty easy. Hang in there and you will get it figured out.
Also welcome to the forum!
Thank you for the welcome. Yes tuning is in my future. I will just have to jump in and go for it. The PR still has all the original putty on it, so i guess i would just remove some instead of add more. I will read the link you posted before i get ahead of myself. Already the change has been night and day using the advice from above.
It Looks like i will be amp shopping too. i think more power will really pull things together. Do these subs want about 500 watts each? -
Check for leaks. You should be able to clearly feel a 17Hz signal through that beast.
Hehe, this was by accident with the SMS-1's test tones. I didn't realize the SMS-1 was reset to 88 out of 100.:eek:Depending on the sub's placement and from where he's measuring in the room.
I normally ran it at in between 2 to 3 out of 100. Needless to say, I thought the world was falling down when the 15Hz signal started. Couldn't hear a damned thing but I SURE DID feel it.
Whoops! Blew out my sub amp on that one.....but it didn't even phase the sub. I was in the same sized room as 714shane's. BTW, I wouldn't attempt to try this again. :biggrin:~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
Thank you for the welcome. Yes tuning is in my future. I will just have to jump in and go for it. The PR still has all the original putty on it, so i guess i would just remove some instead of add more. I will read the link you posted before i get ahead of myself. Already the change has been night and day using the advice from above.
It Looks like i will be amp shopping too. i think more power will really pull things together. Do these subs want about 500 watts each?
Tuning will generally not increase the output of the sub to any significant degree. It is more for reducing distortion, and increasing coordination between the Active and Passive Drivers. If the putty is really off, then you might see some improvement due to the drivers acting more efficiently at all frequencies, but this will likely only be a small change.
The LARGER is a rather old design and was certainly powerful and deep back in the 80/90's, but was designed "before" HT was popular and was for "music" and not BOOMING and BOMBING your room. This does not mean it will not put out significant bass, but there are plenty of more modern, "far less musical" subs that will go lower and louder.
I might also mention that the LARGER came in several incarnations with a couple different DRIVER levels. The entry level did not have the cone stiffness or motor structure of the MEGAwoofers, and UltraMegaWoofers and your performance will depend also on which drivers you have.
Now that said, to maximize your LARGER you will certainly need the best amp and lots of power.
250watts will provide an enjoyable musical performance in an apartment. 500w will give you nice clean peaks, SPLs and depth. 1000w or more will give you the best performance overall.
You may also notice that the LARGER woofers do not have a large excursion. Depth and SPL is the result of Cabinet volume and cone displacement. It is desinged to play cleanly up to 250hz, not just cover 80hz down.
Regarding your room; It sounds like much of your "lack" of low freq response is to a degree room related. If room dimensions fight each other, then NO sub no matter how large and powerfull will change that. It is like having two equally strong giants having a push/pull with each other in the room. You can get bigger/stronger giants, but they will not change the fact that they cannot move each other, in the position they are in relative to the each other. -
Tuning will generally not increase the output of the sub to any significant degree. It is more for reducing distortion, and increasing coordination between the Active and Passive Drivers. If the putty is really off, then you might see some improvement due to the drivers acting more efficiently at all frequencies, but this will likely only be a small change.
The LARGER is a rather old design and was certainly powerful and deep back in the 80/90's, but was designed "before" HT was popular and was for "music" and not BOOMING and BOMBING your room. This does not mean it will not put out significant bass, but there are plenty of more modern, "far less musical" subs that will go lower and louder.
I might also mention that the LARGER came in several incarnations with a couple different DRIVER levels. The entry level did not have the cone stiffness or motor structure of the MEGAwoofers, and UltraMegaWoofers and your performance will depend also on which drivers you have.
Now that said, to maximize your LARGER you will certainly need the best amp and lots of power.
250watts will provide an enjoyable musical performance in an apartment. 500w will give you nice clean peaks, SPLs and depth. 1000w or more will give you the best performance overall.
You may also notice that the LARGER woofers do not have a large excursion. Depth and SPL is the result of Cabinet volume and cone displacement. It is desinged to play cleanly up to 250hz, not just cover 80hz down.
Regarding your room; It sounds like much of your "lack" of low freq response is to a degree room related. If room dimensions fight each other, then NO sub no matter how large and powerfull will change that. It is like having two equally strong giants having a push/pull with each other in the room. You can get bigger/stronger giants, but they will not change the fact that they cannot move each other, in the position they are in relative to the each other.
Thanks JAC. Reversing the phase made an unbelievable difference. The sub is really punchy now even at low volumes i can feel it. The PR still has all the original putty on it, and to me it sounds good. Granted i am new to this so good is very subjective here. I don't know if i would be able to tell a difference by removing some. I guess I need to read more about it.
I also upgraded the amp to a Samson s2000. It puts out 600+ WPC @ 8 ohms, and 1000+ WPC @ 4 ohms. I wired the sub in stereo. This amp should allow me to upgrade to the Ultra-Megawoofers or the OMG?s in the future. I have the Megawoofers now. The 180 phase and new amp solved my problem, it hits hard now, I can feel my floor boards shaking
, so I think my room is ok.
JAC can you PM some pricing on the 12, 15, & PR OMG's, and ultra-mega's? (speakers only). Will these woofers mount right into my existing larger enclosure? I assume that i may need to brace the OMG's if they fit. I am local.
Thanks -
I got a VMPS Large and am upgrading it next week with the Ultramegawoofers. It has a TC Sounds PR installed and I bought it from a fellow Polkie, Vr3MxStyler2k3. Driving it with a Crown XLS1000, bridged at 4 ohms. Bottomed it out a few times with movies, especially War of the Worlds, pod scene emerging from the pavement. I'm so impressed with this sub that I ordered a second one with the Ultramegawoofers and TC Sounds PR. My Pio SC-37 reciever sets the sub channel output real high for 75 db, like at a +0.5. My other subs with plate amps were around -5.0. Anyway, fantastic SQ from these subs.
BillMy 2012 HT Room - http://www.avsforum.com/t/1416077/bsoko2-new-ht-june-2012 -
I got a VMPS Large and am upgrading it next week with the Ultramegawoofers. It has a TC Sounds PR installed and I bought it from a fellow Polkie, Vr3MxStyler2k3. Driving it with a Crown XLS1000, bridged at 4 ohms. Bottomed it out a few times with movies, especially War of the Worlds, pod scene emerging from the pavement. I'm so impressed with this sub that I ordered a second one with the Ultramegawoofers and TC Sounds PR. My Pio SC-37 reciever sets the sub channel output real high for 75 db, like at a +0.5. My other subs with plate amps were around -5.0. Anyway, fantastic SQ from these subs.
Bill
Congratulations on the new sub. Please us know your opinions on the ultramegas vs the megawoofers. I have been on the fence about this upgrade myself, as i currently have the older megas. I have also been on the fence about upgrading my stock PR to the TC or Big Bump, and keeping the megas. How do you like the TC PR? Is the SQ on music still good? Are you using any putty on the TC PR? -
Thread revival for a big VMPS shout out!
Found a local deal on an older VMPS Original Subwoofer with the 12" driver and 15" passive radiator. Going to pick up another VMPS sub in a few days!!!
Brian from VMPS usually responds ASAP with any questions regarding his subs. Fantastic Customer Service.
These VMPS subs are a steal. -
Conradicles wrote: »Thread revival for a big VMPS shout out!
Found a local deal on an older VMPS Original Subwoofer with the 12" driver and 15" passive radiator. Going to pick up another VMPS sub in a few days!!!
Brian from VMPS usually responds ASAP with any questions regarding his subs. Fantastic Customer Service.
These VMPS subs are a steal.
They are on my radar as a possible buy after seeing VM3's and others....."....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963) -
Conradicles wrote: »Thread revival for a big VMPS shout out!
Found a local deal on an older VMPS Original Subwoofer with the 12" driver and 15" passive radiator. Going to pick up another VMPS sub in a few days!!!
Brian from VMPS usually responds ASAP with any questions regarding his subs. Fantastic Customer Service.
These VMPS subs are a steal.
Good Score! The older VMPS subs are out there and usually "exceptional" bargains.
Factor in that due to age the Passive Radiator will need to be changed. The new BB (big bump) PR is great and will make it sound BETTER than when it was new. -
Where can one find these for demo or for sale? I had a look at a website that had specs... some nice looking speakers. If the subs are anything like the speakers as far as price goes... I'm out.
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Drenis,
Here is a price list:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=10799.0
It gets updated every once in a while.
