Polk Audio DB6501

cam5860
cam5860 Posts: 632
edited September 2007 in Car Audio & Electronics
Well I finally Got My kenwood Excelon amp installed and my 6.5 component set also. The mid driver is a pain to install because the mounting holes are wider than a standard 6.5 install, and the spacers work but looked like **** in my install. So I had to drill 4 holes on the edge of my mounting location. But it all worked out. I took some pictures of my install. Tell me how yall think I done.
Post edited by cam5860 on

Comments

  • beardog03
    beardog03 Posts: 5,550
    edited September 2007
    How does it sound ?
    Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
    Parasound HCA-3500
    Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
    Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
    Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
    Jolida JD-100 CDP
    Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
    SVS PC-Ultra Sub
    AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
    MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
    AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
    PS Audio Plus Power Cords
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
    Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
    Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)


    :cool:
  • cam5860
    cam5860 Posts: 632
    edited September 2007
    Well I just finished up about thirty minutes ago. So I have not really had time to listen much yet. But the tweeters are much brighter thans last years model and the midbass has a pretty good punch to it also. Just not near as deep as the momo's. But actually thats better because the momo's make to much **** rattle in my truck like my side mirrors.
  • cam5860
    cam5860 Posts: 632
    edited September 2007
    Really you don't want to much midbass. Thats what the sub is for. You Just want the midbass to blend in and the db's do just that.
  • cam5860
    cam5860 Posts: 632
    edited September 2007
    I also bought a polk audio DB104 to go with this system. But I have to get my box built first. I'm going to get my local car audio shop build it. Because they built one for me in the past and it fit like a glove. Could keep the seat all the way back.
  • MacLeod
    MacLeod Posts: 14,358
    edited September 2007
    Yeah, you kinda do want a lot of midbass. Having weak midbass will pull the sub to the rear a ton due to them not blending well. Having good strong midbass allows you to cross the sub over lower and make it seem much more up front.

    To keep your doors from rattling, youll have to deaden the door trim panel. Best way is with a layer or Dynamat (or your any other quality brand) then lay a layer of foam or quilt batting or some other soft material on the inside to keep the hard plastic from vibrating against the door panel.
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
    08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st

    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D
  • cam5860
    cam5860 Posts: 632
    edited September 2007
    So your saying with stronger midbass! I could cross my sub over at say 50 hertz instead of the usual 80 hertz? Trying to get all the rattles out is almost impossible with the momo's they have so much midbass. I think I'm going to enjoy these DB's much better because they have decent midbass, but not so much that it causes window cranks and side mirrors to rattle like hell.
  • cam5860
    cam5860 Posts: 632
    edited September 2007
    I finally got my sub box built for my DB104. But I run into a few problems. After I built the box it was not deep enough for the sub. It was a 1/2 inch to shallow. So I had to build a plate for it. It don't look to bad. Better than I thought it would look. Far as the sub it's sounds better than I thought it would. I cannot believe how hard this suck hits. Shocked the hell out of me.
  • MacLeod
    MacLeod Posts: 14,358
    edited September 2007
    Good looking box there dude. Attaboy.
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
    08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st

    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D
  • Joelsbass
    Joelsbass Posts: 637
    edited September 2007
    Sharp, clean install... my compliments, it looks great! What's the truck btw?
    MacLeod: I guess youre lucky Polk has such lax hiring standards.

    Josh: Damn skippy!
  • eloplayspolo
    eloplayspolo Posts: 1,117
    edited September 2007
    I love the install good work, if only my car was that easy.
    2013 Toyota Prius
    Audible Physics 3 Way: H6MB, AR3-A, AR2.0
    Image Dynamics iDMax 12" D2v4
    (2) Alpine PDX-V9 Bridged, Alpine PDX-M12 (500w Mid-Bass, 200w Mid, 200w Tweet, 1200w Sub)
    Mosconi 6to8 v8
  • vawakemonster
    vawakemonster Posts: 131
    edited September 2007
    where did you get those spacers?
    Dodge Dakota
    HU: Pioneer
    Amp: Profile AP600 & Phoenix gold r2.5:2
    Speakers: Boston SX 6.5 components
    Subwoofer: polk mm2104
  • cam5860
    cam5860 Posts: 632
    edited September 2007
    Joel it's a 2000 S-10 pickup regular cab.
  • cam5860
    cam5860 Posts: 632
    edited September 2007
    I just cut another piece of 3/4 plywood for my spacer. I could of just made a ring instead of a plate. I had planned to cut another whole piece to go all the way across the front. But I would of had to move my seat up one notch to do it. I did not won't to sacifice leg room to make it look perfect. So I just cut a square out for the size of the woofer.
  • cam5860
    cam5860 Posts: 632
    edited September 2007
    Without the spacer my bottom mount depth is 5 inches. With the spacer it is 5 3/4 inches. The polk DB subs require 5 1/2 inches of depth to install.
  • eloplayspolo
    eloplayspolo Posts: 1,117
    edited September 2007
    what did u use to make the hole for your tweater?
    2013 Toyota Prius
    Audible Physics 3 Way: H6MB, AR3-A, AR2.0
    Image Dynamics iDMax 12" D2v4
    (2) Alpine PDX-V9 Bridged, Alpine PDX-M12 (500w Mid-Bass, 200w Mid, 200w Tweet, 1200w Sub)
    Mosconi 6to8 v8
  • cam5860
    cam5860 Posts: 632
    edited September 2007
    A 2 inch Hole saw is all you need to make a perfect cut.
  • eloplayspolo
    eloplayspolo Posts: 1,117
    edited September 2007
    im gonna try that out on my door, thanks.
    2013 Toyota Prius
    Audible Physics 3 Way: H6MB, AR3-A, AR2.0
    Image Dynamics iDMax 12" D2v4
    (2) Alpine PDX-V9 Bridged, Alpine PDX-M12 (500w Mid-Bass, 200w Mid, 200w Tweet, 1200w Sub)
    Mosconi 6to8 v8