Totem Sub on Audiogon with weird claim...
SolidSqual
Posts: 5,218
http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?homesubw&1191279139
Would you pay $1195 for a half broken sub that retails for $1600? This guy thinks I should! Read below.
"Here's the deal with this sub. As you know there is a left right input for the sub and somtimes people use a jumper to go from one to the other, well the tip from the rca broke off in one side. I have talked Totem and they said you only need one of the inputs and it doesn't matter which. I use the sub and it's perfectly fine but you should be aware of this."
Essentially, he's saying Totem just added the RCA in Stereo for s**ts and giggles. My instinct tells me this would affect synergy and balance.
Would you pay $1195 for a half broken sub that retails for $1600? This guy thinks I should! Read below.
"Here's the deal with this sub. As you know there is a left right input for the sub and somtimes people use a jumper to go from one to the other, well the tip from the rca broke off in one side. I have talked Totem and they said you only need one of the inputs and it doesn't matter which. I use the sub and it's perfectly fine but you should be aware of this."
Essentially, he's saying Totem just added the RCA in Stereo for s**ts and giggles. My instinct tells me this would affect synergy and balance.
Post edited by SolidSqual on
Comments
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Just a thought. You could use a small reamer to remove the pin easily. Use the fact that it is "busted" to influence a price drop. He did say OBO.;)~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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That....
and zero feedback.
But it's my understanding that it should work fine. You should only lose about 3db by running a cable to a single input. But maybe I'm wrong.I never had it like this where I grew up. But I send my kids here because the fact is you go to one of the best schools in the country: Rushmore. Now, for some of you it doesn't matter. You were born rich and you're going to stay rich. But here's my advice to the rest of you: Take dead aim on the rich boys. Get them in the crosshairs and take them down. Just remember, they can buy anything but they can't buy backbone. Don't let them forget it. Thank you.Herman Blume - Rushmore -
really . . . so it the bass signal the same out of each channel? That can't be . . . what about a big bass playing on the left of the soundstage with PAtricia BArber belting out a tune on the right? Wouldn't I miss the bass signal if the sub was hooked to right output?
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Ah.... I see what you're saying. I was thinking of a single sub output. Such as those found on AVR's. You're rolling with a second set of outputs on your preamp.
Nevermind then. Moving along.I never had it like this where I grew up. But I send my kids here because the fact is you go to one of the best schools in the country: Rushmore. Now, for some of you it doesn't matter. You were born rich and you're going to stay rich. But here's my advice to the rest of you: Take dead aim on the rich boys. Get them in the crosshairs and take them down. Just remember, they can buy anything but they can't buy backbone. Don't let them forget it. Thank you.Herman Blume - Rushmore -
I believe the bass signal is a mono signal and the two RCA's on the sub are merged internally. Whatever bass management you are using should join the bass coming from the L/R into one mono signal. If not, you could use a Y adapter and plug it into the good connector on the sub. Either way, it should be fine. I think. Maybe.
timSpeakers: Polk LSi15
Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
Amp: Pass Labs X-150
CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
Cartridge:Denon DL-160
Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH -
Its still USED!!!!
Priced way too high.
If I had the $1200 I would find or save the extra $400 and get it BRAND NEW.Monitor 7b's front
Monitor 4's surround
Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
M10's back surround
Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
Harman/Kardon AVR-635
Oppo 981hd
Denon upconvert DVD player
Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
Mit RPTV WS-55513
Tosh HD-XA1
B&K AV5000
Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek: -
I agree. Overpiced. NO Rep. USED. Plus, who knows how it's been knocked around to lose an RCA plug. I own Totem. The stuff is built pretty solid.
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That's a handsome subwoofer.Check your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service.
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She is a beaut. But, I can't bring myself to even begin bidding on a broken product.
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Now if it were $800 or $900, then yes I would deffinatly consider it.Monitor 7b's front
Monitor 4's surround
Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
M10's back surround
Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
Harman/Kardon AVR-635
Oppo 981hd
Denon upconvert DVD player
Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
Mit RPTV WS-55513
Tosh HD-XA1
B&K AV5000
Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek: -
I just tested my theory on my own sub. Musical info. is lost. Unless you are listening to rap or a movie. The bass lines of certain cds are not equal across the soundstage. Thus, you need both plugs for the right experience. Granted I'm using my preamp outs and not an LFE out.
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I don't know your setup or that particular sub. But if the sub doesn't combine the signals internally you could always just use a Y at the sub. Either way, it's only a single speaker so it shouldn't be necessary to feed it a stereo signal.Speakers: Polk LSi15
Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
Amp: Pass Labs X-150
CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
Cartridge:Denon DL-160
Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH -
Seems like a miscommunication between solid and tcross.
Solid, I know what you are saying, and there are devices that can combine the stereo out to mono for cheap if you ever were in such a situation.
Tcross, it is a normal setup with a normal sub it seems. What he is saying is he is using the L+R pre outs of his pre, which is why he would need 2 inputs. With one you have to choose L or R, and you miss the bass from the other side. Most people just use the sub out and have the bass crossed over, but if the sub is used just to enhance the fronts then it isn't so easy. -
It just has the tip stuck inside it. That shouldn't be too hard to pull out and as long as the actual jack isn't damaged it should be good to go.
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How bout we have everyone on this forum contribute a dollar to buy this thing. Then I'll ship it off to that guy who blends all sorts of things on YouTube with his HiSpeed/Powered Blenders.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B8H29jU8Wrs&mode=related&search= -
Seems like a miscommunication between solid and tcross.
Solid, I know what you are saying, and there are devices that can combine the stereo out to mono for cheap if you ever were in such a situation.
Tcross, it is a normal setup with a normal sub it seems. What he is saying is he is using the L+R pre outs of his pre, which is why he would need 2 inputs. With one you have to choose L or R, and you miss the bass from the other side. Most people just use the sub out and have the bass crossed over, but if the sub is used just to enhance the fronts then it isn't so easy.
Ah, ok. But wouldn't you still be able to use a Y at the sub? L/R pre-outs to a Y to the single RCA at the sub? That wouldn't work?
Thanks,
timSpeakers: Polk LSi15
Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
Amp: Pass Labs X-150
CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
Cartridge:Denon DL-160
Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH