Modding a DVD-V/A SACD player
Systems
Posts: 14,873
I have been using a Pioneer DV563 universal CD/DVD player for several years.Although it is a quite capable player it does have some areas where Pioneer did take some cost cutting measures to keep it costs down as it is a budget unit.Unfortunately most of the short cuts where in the important analog section and power supply.One area they didn't skimp on was the digital ,for the DAC chip they used a BurrBrown DSD1791 for the main left and right channels.They used lower grade Burr Brown chips for the remaining surround/center and sub channels.A nice touch and unusual for a budget unit is that SACD data is not converted to PCM.Most budget universal players do convert the SACD data to PCM which limits the resolution you can get from this excellent sounding format.
The player in stock form was lacking in the dynamics and detail department so I undertook some mods to try and improve on what is really decent player.
The reason for the lackluster dynamics was that Pioneer used the cheapest op amps (4560's) and powered them from a single pos 12 volt rail with a switching power supply.These are the areas that I felt needed the most attention and would reap the most benefit.I consentrated on only the main left and right channels.
Here is a list of what I did and a few pics.Sorry pics a bit blurry.
1. removed the stock opamp and passive components for the left and right analog output and low pass filter section.
2.added a new circuit board above the main board that has a new hi quality opamp (BB OPA2604)and better resistors and capacitors.
3.I added another circuit board that contained a pair of class A discrete buffers as the final output section.This board also contains the new 24 volt regulators that power all the new opamps.
4.I didn't have enough room in the chassis to put the new transformer and filter caps for the upgraded linear power supply so I used a separate chassis just for it and added a connector at the back of the Pioneer to allow for the raw DC to be piped into it.
5.I also added a pair of gold RCA's because the stock ones are very poor quality.
Although my opinion can't be taken as unbiased I believe the players sound quality improved substantially with this rather involved but fun and educational mod..
The player in stock form was lacking in the dynamics and detail department so I undertook some mods to try and improve on what is really decent player.
The reason for the lackluster dynamics was that Pioneer used the cheapest op amps (4560's) and powered them from a single pos 12 volt rail with a switching power supply.These are the areas that I felt needed the most attention and would reap the most benefit.I consentrated on only the main left and right channels.
Here is a list of what I did and a few pics.Sorry pics a bit blurry.
1. removed the stock opamp and passive components for the left and right analog output and low pass filter section.
2.added a new circuit board above the main board that has a new hi quality opamp (BB OPA2604)and better resistors and capacitors.
3.I added another circuit board that contained a pair of class A discrete buffers as the final output section.This board also contains the new 24 volt regulators that power all the new opamps.
4.I didn't have enough room in the chassis to put the new transformer and filter caps for the upgraded linear power supply so I used a separate chassis just for it and added a connector at the back of the Pioneer to allow for the raw DC to be piped into it.
5.I also added a pair of gold RCA's because the stock ones are very poor quality.
Although my opinion can't be taken as unbiased I believe the players sound quality improved substantially with this rather involved but fun and educational mod..
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Post edited by Unknown User on
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There is a large thread over at DIY Audio Forums on this player. A lot of folks are doing cartwheels over the new National Semiconductor 4562 opamp. I is supposed to make the 2604 and some of the other more expensive TI units obsolete. Do a search ovet there on the 4562. combine it with some Silver Mindorf or Auricap coupling capacitors, a low jitter clock and a tube output buffer amd you'll have a real jaw droping sound.Carl
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Impressive...to say the least.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Thanks Carl for the suggestions.Ive heard about the LM 4562 and it is supposed to be a goody.The choice of the 2604 was based partially on the fact that it is one of the few that can operate with same 24volt DC rails that the discrete buffer needs.Most IC opamps will only work with voltages up to 15 and some 18 volts.
I believe the discrete classA opamp Im using as the output buffer is very good but a tube design would certainly be interesting.As far as output coupling caps I use the very best...none.I completely removed them as DC offset was not going to be a concern.The caps I did replace where the ones that were in the low pass filter section.Testing
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Impressive...to say the least.Testing
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I snagged another 563 off ePay for less than $20.I plan to mod this one also but not sure of all the specifics but I plan to do some different things then what I did on the other unit.This should be a fun and it will be interesting to compare the two modded players.Testing
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Great job. Must patience.engtaz
I love how music can brighten up a bad day. -
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No heat problems? I know some of those players (and many DVD players in general) are very particular about how much heat they can tollerate. Layering boards, but no problems right?Monitor 7b's front
Monitor 4's surround
Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
M10's back surround
Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
Harman/Kardon AVR-635
Oppo 981hd
Denon upconvert DVD player
Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
Mit RPTV WS-55513
Tosh HD-XA1
B&K AV5000
Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek: -
No heat problems? I know some of those players (and many DVD players in general) are very particular about how much heat they can tollerate. Layering boards, but no problems right?Testing
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Nice job. Were all the extra circuits assembled from scratch or were some of them off the shelf type items? Do you have an EE background type or just learning on the fly? This is far beyond what I can do, that's for sure. I can upgrade a few parts and trouble shoot problems, but designing new output sections, that's something else!For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore...
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Nice job.Were all the extra circuits assembled from scratch or were some of them off the shelf type items?Do you have an EE background type or just learning on the fly?Testing
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Nice job on modifying a lowly dvd player. They have so much potential and are cheap to start with. I wish I could get to the level you are so I can understand more of this diy stuff. What are you going to do to the second player that is different compared to the first? I think I have another Toshiba I can mod on the way and will keep the op amps like you did and improve the components. The first Toshiba I modded I used two caps straight out of the dac chip. A Swenson mod. Simple, less processing of the signal but I have been told not as dynamic. I will see. But I have an Adcom dac on the way so that may make me go another direction. Thanks for the detailed post on what you did. More motivation on the diy front.Main system: Lyngdorf TDAI 2170 w/ Pioneer 42" plazma-> Polk LSiM 703 w/Tivo, Marantz tuner, BRPTT: Nothingham Spacedeck-> Pioneer PL L1000 linear arm-> Soundsmith DL 103R-> SUT->Bottlehead ErosDigital: I3 PC w/ Jriver playing flac -> Sonore Ultrarendu -> Twisted Pair Audio ESS 9028 w/ Mercury IVY Vinyl rips: ESI Juli@24/192-> i3 PC server
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Nice job on modifying a lowly dvd player. They have so much potential and are cheap to start with.What are you going to do to the second player that is different compared to the first?
btw.The stock op amp Pioneer used was removed and replaced as it is a nasty little device and a simple cap upgrade was not going to save it.
These players will be my DVD movie and Multichannel music sources,I use an outbourd DAC for redbook CD.Testing
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There is a large thread over at DIY Audio Forums on this player. A lot of folks are doing cartwheels over the new National Semiconductor 4562 opamp. I is supposed to make the 2604 and some of the other more expensive TI units obsolete. Do a search ovet there on the 4562. combine it with some Silver Mindorf or Auricap coupling capacitors, a low jitter clock and a tube output buffer amd you'll have a real jaw droping sound.
The 4562 is a really nice opamp (I used them in my NAD preamp project, click the NAD link in my sig) however it is only rated to 17 volts.
At that voltage, your options are pretty limited. (from the common opamps choices anyway)
Looks like you did a great job. Congrats on the upgrades.
MichaelMains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms) -
The 4562 is a really nice opamp (I used them in my NAD preamp project, click the NAD link in my sig) however it is only rated to 17 volts.
At that voltage, your options are pretty limited. (from the common opamps choices anyway)Looks like you did a great job.Congrats on the upgrades.Testing
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Nice work guys!
GV, are you considering a new clock & regulator? Lots of options, but none are dirt cheap.:(Carl -
GV, are you considering a new clock & regulator? Lots of options, but none are dirt cheap.:(Testing
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:cool: HMMMMMMM>.....Shall I dare open my Oppo??? HMMMMMMMMonitor 7b's front
Monitor 4's surround
Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
M10's back surround
Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
Harman/Kardon AVR-635
Oppo 981hd
Denon upconvert DVD player
Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
Mit RPTV WS-55513
Tosh HD-XA1
B&K AV5000
Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek: -
:cool: HMMMMMMM>.....Shall I dare open my Oppo??? HMMMMMMMTesting
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No I'm not going to mess with the clock but Im toying with the idea of improving the regulators that feed the 3.3 and 5 volts to the DAC chips.
Good luck GV! I know the tweakers are watching:D
CarlCarl -
Excellent DIY example.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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Good luck GV! I know the tweakers are watching:D
Carl
I always keep one eye out for GV's tweeks.;)Monitor 7b's front
Monitor 4's surround
Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
M10's back surround
Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
Harman/Kardon AVR-635
Oppo 981hd
Denon upconvert DVD player
Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
Mit RPTV WS-55513
Tosh HD-XA1
B&K AV5000
Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek: -
Good luck GV!
I have made a few decisions of what Im going to do.
I have been reading through the datasheets for the particular opamps I was considering, namely the Burr Brown OPA 2132 and OPA 2134 and the TI LM4562 that schwarcw and McLoki mentioned. I have decided to use a pair of LM4562's.Although the datasheet spec's can't tell you how an op amp sounds the 4562 has some very good numbers that make it a must try.
I will use them for the output of the sub,center and front left an right channels and they will replace the stock parts.Im leaving the surround outputs stock as they are to my mind far less critical.
For the front L&R channels the DV 563 uses a DAC with differential outputs so very little DC offset occurs.This combined with the LM4562's very low offset will allow me to eliminate the output coupling capacitors.
A different DAC is used for sub, center and surrounds and it does require that the use of a capacitor at the input to the opamp to block DC.
I still have to decide on the tranformer for the new power supply.
I may add some chassis damping as well.Does anyone have suggestions of what would be good to use?Testing
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Wow! I thought I was Mr. Cool cause I made my own RG-6 subwoofer cables.My 7.4.4 DIY 4k Home Theater:
Polk LSiM 707 L-C-R, LSiM702 side surrounds, LSiM 705 rears
Polk LSiM 702s x 4 on the Ceiling Atmos speakers
2 x SVS PB12/Plus 2's
Denon X3700H
Emotiva XPA11 Gen 3
XBox One X 4k & BD and streaming
Panasonic UB-420 4k player
HD-A35 HD DVD
Oppo BD-103D for hirez audio
Technics SL-D2 TT, Grado Gold Cartridge
JVC DLA-RS2000/NX7 projector
Silver Ticket 120" acoustically transparent screen
Berkline 090 electric recliners with Aura Bass Shakers -
I made some progress over the weekend and partially completed the two op amp boards.I still need to install the components that form the low pass filters.I used chip sockets which will allow for easy swapping and comparison of different op amps in the future.
The blank double sided copper board shown in the pic will be mounted underneath the new boards.This should help shield them from RF produced by the digital circuits on the main board directly below.
Can't do much more until I recieve my parts order from Digi Key.:(Testing
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It has been a month but I finally got back to this tonight and did the most tedious part of the mod.I removed the main board and desoldered a number of components from the bottom side that won't be needed.Testing
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Awesome work. I'm going to mod my cdp this weekend. I'm not ambitious enough to add a complete new board as you did, but I'm going to add some IC sockets, some OPA2604's and bypass the mute circuit, and anything else unnecessary in the signal path.
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Awesome work. I'm going to mod my cdp this weekend. I'm not ambitious enough to add a complete new board as you did, but I'm going to add some IC sockets, some OPA2604's and bypass the mute circuit, and anything else unnecessary in the signal path.
Great,what model of CDP and what will the 2604 be replacing?You should post some pics.Testing
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I'm getting nearer to completion on the second unit.The op amp boards are 90% done then its a matter of connecting everything together.
pic #1 shows the stock unit (minus a few capacitors).
pic#2 is the new circuit assemblies that will be added ,the two analog boards and the new power supply to power them.On the PS board I used a very compact Amveco toroidal transformer and a pair of 5600uf filter capacitors.
The parts for the analog boards aren't exotic but are very good.I used Panasonic polypropylenes in the low pass filter sections and used Panasonic FC series low impedance electrolytics for all the power supply decoupling.These were then bypassed with Panasonic stacked film types.
pic#3 shows the 4 new RCA output connectors that where added to the back panel.
pic #4and 5 show how the new boards will be mounted in the chassis.There is a open area in the front left that was a perfect place for the new power supply.The new anlog boards are mounted on to a blank dual side copper PC board that will serve as a ground plane and provide some shielding from the digital section.Testing
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