JL 300/4 to push Polk momo mmc 6500 and mmc 650
BLockburner28
Posts: 13
Alot of peeps told me that JL push out more then 75 rms x4. So I brought the amp for 300 dollars brand new but never hooked it up yet. Will it push the component set and the 6 1/2's in the rear door?
Post edited by BLockburner28 on
Comments
-
You will be fine with that setup.Alpine: CDA-7949
Alpine: PXA-H600
Alpine: CHA-S624, KCA-420i, KCA-410C
Rainbow: CS 265 Profi Phase Plug / SL 165
ARC Audio: 4150-XXK / 1500v1-XXK
JL Audio: 10W6v2 (x2)
KnuKonceptz
Second Skin -
Okay tell me this man. I have them all hooked up but for some reason i'm getting alot of distortion? is it a certain way I need to wire these up to the amp. On the first channel I have the component woofer and tweeter wired together in the + and the other side in the -. Same with the other set on the and amp channel.
-
The positive and negative should be wired to the + & - of the crossover for your components. Same goes for the rear speakers.Alpine: CDA-7949
Alpine: PXA-H600
Alpine: CHA-S624, KCA-420i, KCA-410C
Rainbow: CS 265 Profi Phase Plug / SL 165
ARC Audio: 4150-XXK / 1500v1-XXK
JL Audio: 10W6v2 (x2)
KnuKonceptz
Second Skin -
So the + wire should be wired to the + on the crossover and same with the - to the - right? But what about on the amp? should both the tweeter and woofer be wired to the same channel
-
BLockburner28 wrote: »So the + wire should be wired to the + on the crossover and same with the - to the - right? But what about on the amp? should both the tweeter and woofer be wired to the same channel
You do not want to wire the tweeter/woofer directly to the amplifier. You run the risk of damaging your equipment.
You want to hook up the amplifier's positive terminal to the + input on the crossover, and the negative terminal to the - input on the crossover. Then there should be TWO sets of outputs on the crossover, one for the woofer and one for the tweeter. Hook up the tweeter's + to the + output on the TWEETER side, and then hook up the woofer's + to the + output on the WOOFER side. Do the same for the negative side.
Do this same thing for the other channel for the other side of the car.
Good luck,
Brian -
Okay look @ how I have the speakers wired in the amp. Should it be like that? oh btw I both of the crossovers hooked up right. My question was cause my components came in two different wires for the woofer and tweeter should I double up the wires in 1 channel like in the first picture? -
How would I branch these off to my amp
I know it shouldn't be 2 speakers on 1 channel -
BLockburner28 wrote: »
Okay look @ how I have the speakers wired in the amp. Should it be like that? oh btw I both of the crossovers hooked up right. My question was cause my components came in two different wires for the woofer and tweeter should I double up the wires in 1 channel like in the first picture?
No, you're crossovers are not hooked up correctly. You should not have two cables coming out of the speaker terminals, and you should only be using one of your inputs on the crossover.
On the JL Audio amplifiers, the same power is output no matter the impedence load. What it looks like you're trying to do is lower resistance, therefore increasing power output. This is useless on that amplifier.
The correct setup would be ONE cable from each channel, not two. That one cable plugs into the TWEETER +/- on the crossover with the Input switch set to single. This then branches off on the other end of the crossover to two separate lines, a tweeter +/- and a woofer +/- line.
The setup you have might work, but it's messy and unnecessary. If you still want to try it, make SURE your input switch is on DUAL, although I would advise against hooking it up like this at all.
There should have been a sticker right on the inputs explaining this with a giant warning saying:
WARNING! For Dual Input Mode: Use Woofer +/- and Tweeter +/-. For Single Input Mode: Use Tweeter +/- Only. IMPROPER HOOK UP CAN SERIOUSLY DAMAGE SPEAKERS AND/OR AMPLIFIERS!
Looking at your picture, it looks like you still have the input switch on Single. Also, make sure that both of the crossovers on your amp are set to High-Pass at around 60Hz, otherwise you'll get some distortion by trying to play low frequency notes that the speakers are not designed to be playing (that's where subwoofers come in).
Brian -
So from the speakers should I hook up to the input side of the crossover. or should I hook up from the output side of the amp?
-
The signal path is like this:
Headunit > Amp > Crossover > Speakers
So, the answer is no. The speakers should be hooked up to the OUTPUT side of the crossover(s).
Read the manual that came with the speakers. If you don't have it, you can download it from Polk's website. -
Okay I will run these bridged at 2 channels. So how would I go about wiring it to the amp?
-
Bridged?
You have two pairs of speakers (front and rear), and two pairs of terminals right? Where did the idea of bridging come from?
kstrike155 explained how to wire the components to the amp. You should only have ONE PAIR of wire going from the amp outputs to the crossover inputs for EACH channel (left and right). One +, and one -, for each crossover.
Then from the crossover, one + and one - for each tweeter, and one + and one - for each driver.
Then for the rear speakers, one + and one - from the amp directly to the corresponding rear speaker terminals. -
*bsod*
-
okay so on the crossover inputs out of the woofer +,- and tweeter +,- I should only use the + from the woofer and the - from the tweeter ? or should I use just one of them the tweeter + and - and just leave the woofer + and - alone. Btw thanks for all the help man this is my first time ever installing music.
-
BLockburner28 wrote: »or should I use just one of them the tweeter + and - and just leave the woofer + and - alone.
Exactly. Amp output, to tweeter input on the crossover.
Don't worry about not using the woofer side on the crossover. You're doing the right thing, and it was designed that way to allow for some extra flexibility and features for custom installs. Stuff that most people don't ever do or need to do.
Thanks for posting the pics. It can sometimes be hard to describe and understand connections like this. The pics helped us understand a lot of what was going on.
Let us know how it works out. -
okayno problem manthanks for all the help if I get stuck i'll ask more questions but also thanks for having patience with me and with the fast replies
-
All Positives go to positive, Negatives to negative, this will never change on your install that your doing.
Amp has 4 chans
Front Right, Front Left, Rear Right, Rear Left
Front Right = 1 Cross over and 2 speakers (Tweater and woofer)
Front Left = 1 Cross over and 2 speakers (Tweater and woofer)
Rear Right = 1 Cross over and 2 speakers Rear Coax
Rear Left = 1 Cross over and 2 speakers Rear Coax
You are going to be using Single Input Mode, Make sure that on side of the crossover lid that says Woffer in and Tweeter in, u have the switch on the left over to the single side.
Front Right will go to whatever crossover is on the right, and that 1 speaker cable will go into the Tweeter in. From there, Woofer out to the woofer itself, and for the tweeter, u go tweeter out to the tweeter, very simple.
So 1 Speaker cable from amp to crossover, and 2 from crossover to the tweeter and to the woofer, For the speakers in the doors, its just rear right to the speaker and same for the left.
i tried to break it down, hope this helps.2013 Toyota Prius
Audible Physics 3 Way: H6MB, AR3-A, AR2.0
Image Dynamics iDMax 12" D2v4
(2) Alpine PDX-V9 Bridged, Alpine PDX-M12 (500w Mid-Bass, 200w Mid, 200w Tweet, 1200w Sub)
Mosconi 6to8 v8 -
Okay I tried it and its working but I don't really like this amp so I will bring it back and wait til my cousin get me a better deal on one.
-
BLockburner28 wrote: »Okay I tried it and its working but I don't really like this amp so I will bring it back and wait til my cousin get me a better deal on one.
That's a sweet amp man. Can't get a whole lot better than that. -
Dude the amp is fine, u wont notice a dif with more wattage unless your cranking it up, have someone who knows what they are doing tune it for it, thats your prob.2013 Toyota Prius
Audible Physics 3 Way: H6MB, AR3-A, AR2.0
Image Dynamics iDMax 12" D2v4
(2) Alpine PDX-V9 Bridged, Alpine PDX-M12 (500w Mid-Bass, 200w Mid, 200w Tweet, 1200w Sub)
Mosconi 6to8 v8 -
Yea but i'm kinda tight on money right now but I will be getting a eclipse 4000 or something like that but i'm getting it for 150 less
-
You have a good amplifier.....just tune it properly and you should be fine.Alpine: CDA-7949
Alpine: PXA-H600
Alpine: CHA-S624, KCA-420i, KCA-410C
Rainbow: CS 265 Profi Phase Plug / SL 165
ARC Audio: 4150-XXK / 1500v1-XXK
JL Audio: 10W6v2 (x2)
KnuKonceptz
Second Skin -
Don't get a new amp, the JL slash series is awesome...
Brian -
btw the amp I had was the JL 300/4 version 1 not slash
-
jl 300/4 version 1 is a "slash" amp, version 2 is a "slash v2". And like everyone is telling you it is a great amp.Team Schil Acoustics
05 MECA world champion
06 MECA world champion
06 MECA Culbertson cup (best of show) -
Ill go ahead and throw my hat in here too. 300M is right - that IS a Slash amp.
Its also quite an excellent amp. If your kids were going without food then I suppose that might be a good reason to sell it. Other than that, keep it. Its as good an amp as youre going to get.
Just make sure youre hooking it up right, and setting the gains properly.polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st
polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D -
I have a setup similar to yours.
polk c400.4 (puts out about the same as that JL amp)
mmc6500
mmc525, mmc690
all this is wired from that amp and it sounds great. Like eloplayspolo said, you may just need to have it tuned properly.
make sure that you have the + and - for both the woofer and tweeter in the cross over. since you're using a single channel for each set, have the + and - from the amp going into the TWEETER input on the cross over. Also make sure that input is set to single. (looks like you have already done this, but check it again. Its very easy to mess up something in your wiring).
After you've verified all of that, all thats left is to tune it properly and wait for em to break in. then you've got your self a nice setup!