crossover question/problem

Jockos

If any of the components on say my 11T's were not making a solid connection; say a capacitor, inductor, resistor would just the sound change or would there be no sound at all? I had to do a lot of tugging and pulling to get the old capacitors out because all the glue I used. I could actually here the PCB creaking abit. The large inductor wire broke off so I had to resolder it back to the CB. Is the red color some sort of enamel? I'm just hoping I made a solid joint.

Jockos

george daniel

I think that the wire coming from the inductor to the crossover may be your problem. When I did my 11T's, I had the same issue. It's frustrating,but take your time,you'll get it figured out. Good luck,,and yes,, if it is not making the proper connection to the board,the speakers will sound ,,, muted,,for lack of a better description.

Jockos

Is the red color on the inductor wire some sort of coating, and can you just apply solder straight to it? If it is a coating will it burn off exposing the copper? Or do you have to sand it off. Looking at the schematics it looks as though if the inductor wire did not make contact with the CB there would be no sound at all; am I correct?

F1nut

The red color is a coating. You can scrape it off with a sharp knife, etc. No contact, no workie.

Tip: To remove hot glue, carefully cut at it with a very sharp razor or knife, then peel away as much as possible before trying to remove the component. Never yank, tug or pull on the components.

Jockos

Thanks F1 so I guess I do have proper contact because it's working.

Jockos

OK so after looking at some other clearer schematics it looks like if the large inductor doesn't have good connection there would be no sound from the bass drivers. On the tweeter circuit it looks as though if the inductor was not connected, there would still be sound but degraded sound. Does this sound right? Just trying to understand.

Jockos

Jockos

anyone?

george daniel

from my experience,,I would say yes, you are correct. good luck.

jcaut

I haven't looked at the schematic, but if you soldered that inductor without scraping the enamel off really well then that very well could be the source of your problem. The enamel won't burn off easily when you heat it with an iron- you need to scrape it off with a knife or sandpaper, etc.. Depending on the crossover it might be possible to have the signal feed back through another path and pass to the driver, even though the solder joint on the inductor might not be making contact.

jcaut

Are your crossovers like the original 11T or the revised schematic? (I looked at those posted under "Troubleshooting") On the revised schematic it looks as if there would be no sound from the MW if the inductor connection was bad. But on the original design, I think there would be sound,..just not right.

Jockos

Yes mine is the newer(revised) schematic. Thanks. My next suspect would be the smaller inductor for the tweeter. I'm wondering if anyone has had experience with the sound change if it was not connected properly. I would just resolder those joints but that enamel wire looks fragile, and in my experience resoldering these is a delicate job, so I would rather avoid this if posssible.

Thanks,
Jockos

ben62670

Jockos wrote: »

Yes mine is the newer(revised) schematic. Thanks. My next suspect would be the smaller inductor for the tweeter. I'm wondering if anyone has had experience with the sound change if it was not connected properly. I would just resolder those joints but that enamel wire looks fragile, and in my experience resoldering these is a delicate job, so I would rather avoid this if posssible.

Thanks,
Jockos

Don't worry about the wire. Take the inductors off, and clean the ends with fine sandpaper till they are nice and shinny. If you don't make sure they are proerly cleaned then you will find yourself running in circles.

Jockos

I resoldered the inductor wires of both the woofer and tweeter circuits with silver solder. Both speakers sound great. By the way as an experiment I took the woofer inductor wire out and tried hooking it up; no sound out of both bass drivers.

Thanks
Jockos

PoweredByDodge

F1nut wrote: »

Tip: To remove hot glue, carefully cut at it with a very sharp razor or knife, then peel away as much as possible before trying to remove the component. Never yank, tug or pull on the components.

i keep a **** old soldering iron around for that... heat up the glue with the iron and scrape it away as you draw the iron along... if you go and cut the hot glue while it is cold and dry, and then try to pull it out (hence the 'don't yank' warning for F1nut) you may very well rip the trace off the pcb, depending on how much of a piece of crap the pcb is or how strong the hot glue is.

F1nut

Ripping off the trace would be of concern if the hot glue was on the trace side of the board. However, with these crossovers that is not the case as the mount side of the board is completely trace free.

Jockos

I did use that method where I could.

Thanks
Jockos

tlarsen77

I have a pair of SDA SRS speakers looking for info on crossover rebuild

jcaut

Lots of info in this topic. You can try searching.

Here's one thread: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19053