1.2 TL Crossover Upgrade Gone Very Wrong!

avguytx

Man, reading this makes me look forward to getting my parts in from Partsconnexion sometime next week and then I will finally get to recapping mine. For breaking them in, I thought about doing a trick we did years ago in the home and car audio stores I worked at. If we got a new pair of speakers in for evaluation or a pair that a customer was picking up that was special order, we had a "break in" trick a few of the manufacturers said to use. We would hook the speakers up facing each other and wired out of phase while playing pink noise at a reasonable volume level for a few days non stop...maybe longer. It always seemed to work very well since we just "had" to hear what they sounded like out of the box versus what they sounded like after a weeks worth of pink noise. Quite the difference.

I may do that to mine since after I do them, I will have to leave town for a few days or so. It's kind of cool because facing each other and out of phase, you can barely hear anything out of them even at a moderate level. Anyone else ever done this? There's no telling how many pairs of home and car speakers I've done this to in the last 20 years.

Glad the speakers are finally reaching their true potential!

schwarcw

Patience is a virtue my friend:)

I've never learned that lesson. I'm all about instant gratification.

dudeinaroom

rock on, that's good to hear

hearingimpared

avguytx wrote: »

Man, reading this makes me look forward to getting my parts in from Partsconnexion sometime next week and then I will finally get to recapping mine. For breaking them in, I thought about doing a trick we did years ago in the home and car audio stores I worked at. If we got a new pair of speakers in for evaluation or a pair that a customer was picking up that was special order, we had a "break in" trick a few of the manufacturers said to use. We would hook the speakers up facing each other and wired out of phase while playing pink noise at a reasonable volume level for a few days non stop...maybe longer. It always seemed to work very well since we just "had" to hear what they sounded like out of the box versus what they sounded like after a weeks worth of pink noise. Quite the difference.

I may do that to mine since after I do them, I will have to leave town for a few days or so. It's kind of cool because facing each other and out of phase, you can barely hear anything out of them even at a moderate level. Anyone else ever done this? There's no telling how many pairs of home and car speakers I've done this to in the last 20 years.

Glad the speakers are finally reaching their true potential!

I've never done that but I've heard of the facing each other, out-of-phase exercising.

hearingimpared

Lasareath wrote: »

That's Great news Joe!, Thursday I'm home all day. I'm going have to call and get my parts.

How much difference do you think the cardas posts make?, I'm thinking I will do the IC cable and cardas post at another time.

Sal

I've replaced all the stock posts with the Cardas posts. I honestly don't know if it makes any sonic difference at all. What the Cardas posts do so much better than the stock posts is that they allow a much, much better electrical connection in mass and gold. That being said there probably is a sonic benefit to replacing the stock posts. I'll tell you this much they look really cool and they look and fell like real quaility. If someone was charging me $125 more for a product because it had Cardas posts installed in lieu of stock posts, I would gladly pay it.

EDIT: I didn't do the planned Cardas post replacement for the SDA IC because that would only permit one connection. If I do finally bag a Tri Vista, I'm going to need to use the AI-1 and will need both connections that the pin and blade provide. The blade of the SDA jack is connected to the lower speaker post's ground/negative.

ben62670

FYI for you guys doing upgrades to 1.2's.
While talking to Joe, and finding out which tweeter was the offensive one. Tweeter 3, second from the bottom is kinda a full range tweeter at lower levels. There is a 22.5 ohm resistor parallel to the capacitor that makes it take longer to burn in at lower levels. This is the only cap in the crossover that does not have the currant travel directly through it.

george daniel

good to hear that Joe

Deadof_knight

Glad you made it thru the dark times !!!

michaeljhsda2

ben62670 wrote: »

FYI for you guys doing upgrades to 1.2's.
While talking to Joe, and finding out which tweeter was the offensive one. Tweeter 3, second from the bottom is kinda a full range tweeter at lower levels. There is a 22.5 ohm resistor parallel to the capacitor that makes it take longer to burn in at lower levels. This is the only cap in the crossover that does not have the currant travel directly through it.

Ben, would the fact that the jumper is probably missing account for this?

ben62670

I have had the pleasure of hear his system, and I would have to say there is no issues with his XO's. It was attributed to the roller coaster ride that caps send us on while burning in. As for the post you quoted I would have to look into what I said a little deeper. The schematics list all the correct values usually, but there are some differences in some diagrams than what is actually done on the boards.