Some may remeber me...but I'm serious this time...Amplifer Help?

T_Unit616
T_Unit616 Posts: 131
edited June 2007 in Car Audio & Electronics
Some may remember me as the guy who had the subwoofer in the cardboard box. I got rid of it not long after I posted it hear. Now I am back up, but it isn't the greatest system. I have a question about my amplifier. It is from Lightning Audio, # B4.250.2. Now, I was wondering wat the X Over thing was: [HTML]http://www.lightningaudio.com/products/product_details.asp?cat_id=1&series_id=4&family_id=8&item_id=106725&locale=en_US[/HTML] It is the first picture, and the X-Over is the 1st thing on the left.

Also, a question about my subwoofer: My subwoofer (12 inch) is Rockford Fosgate, and the box is 13 inches tall, 21 inches long, and about 12-13 icnhes wide. Should I have a small hole for a vent?
P.S: Sorry this isn't Polk Audio. But I just need some quick help.
Thanks guys,
Tom
Post edited by T_Unit616 on

Comments

  • ilikesound
    ilikesound Posts: 355
    edited June 2007
    the crossover "thing" is works essentially like a traffic cop for sound waves. it filters out the frequencies you don't want to have it play. usually, people will set it to around 80hz or so, meaning the sub will reproduce anything at, (sometimes around) and under 80hz. properly tuning it would require that you know the lowest frequency response of your speakers, then you would set your sub "x-over" to maybe around 10hz OVER that number.
    example: my speakers say they can go from 55hz to 20,000khz. i would cross my sub over at 60hz to make it blend well. listen and maybe turn it up or down a little if you are not satisfied.
    At Home:
    Panasonic 42'' TC-L42U12 LCD
    Pioneer VSX-80TXV
    Toshiba HD-XA2
    Sony PS3 - psn "metalguitars"
    Xbox 360 - gamertag "giggidygiggidy"
    Panamax 4300EX
    Polk RTi8's
    Polk CSi3's
    Polk FXi3's. (x2)
    Martin Logan Dynamo (x2)
    Audioquest interconnects and wires.

    Away From Home:
    JVC HDR-50
    stock system in new car for now:(
  • ilikesound
    ilikesound Posts: 355
    edited June 2007
    as for your sub, if you want a ported enclosure, then yes, you will want a hole in the box. be wary, however because it has to be the correct diameter and length for it to do anything efficiently. i WILL sound like **** if you half-**** it, or worse yet, guess. if you desire a more tight, clean bass, then no. leave it as is.
    At Home:
    Panasonic 42'' TC-L42U12 LCD
    Pioneer VSX-80TXV
    Toshiba HD-XA2
    Sony PS3 - psn "metalguitars"
    Xbox 360 - gamertag "giggidygiggidy"
    Panamax 4300EX
    Polk RTi8's
    Polk CSi3's
    Polk FXi3's. (x2)
    Martin Logan Dynamo (x2)
    Audioquest interconnects and wires.

    Away From Home:
    JVC HDR-50
    stock system in new car for now:(
  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited June 2007
    dude has a 100 watt RF sub in a 2 cu. ft. sealed enclosure? ... geez.
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge
  • T_Unit616
    T_Unit616 Posts: 131
    edited June 2007
    dude has a 100 watt RF sub in a 2 cu. ft. sealed enclosure? ... geez.

    Well it sounded real nice lol. But I just bought 2 10" 600 Watt Pioneer subs, and a 1600 watt amp.
  • ilikesound
    ilikesound Posts: 355
    edited June 2007
    in the words of my mentor Borat..."Niiiiice."
    At Home:
    Panasonic 42'' TC-L42U12 LCD
    Pioneer VSX-80TXV
    Toshiba HD-XA2
    Sony PS3 - psn "metalguitars"
    Xbox 360 - gamertag "giggidygiggidy"
    Panamax 4300EX
    Polk RTi8's
    Polk CSi3's
    Polk FXi3's. (x2)
    Martin Logan Dynamo (x2)
    Audioquest interconnects and wires.

    Away From Home:
    JVC HDR-50
    stock system in new car for now:(