Painting Question
BaggedLancer
Posts: 6,371
I am currently in the process of renovating my in-law apartment in my parents house(digging in for the long haul as some would call it 
) due to the fact I plan on going to get my masters right after college to get it over with so moving out will be non optionial since I just don't have the money. Decided to mount my TV up on the wall, bury all my wires, rearrange things, have some new electrical services put it, etc....
Anyway, the apartment is a basement apartment and about 3 years I redid the whole place using latex primer and latex primer. Because of the moisture(i run 2 dehumidifiers at all times), certain parts of the walls started to peel.
As of right now I have just sanded and reprimed the walls using Kilz Oil Primer.
Is it OK to use latex finish paint over this or do you think I should stick with the oil paint? It seems like the oil paint takes many more coats to get the full coverage that only 1 coat of latex paint gets because of how much it absorbs into the wall.
I just don't want it to peel again and have this be a waste of time 3 years down the road.
) due to the fact I plan on going to get my masters right after college to get it over with so moving out will be non optionial since I just don't have the money. Decided to mount my TV up on the wall, bury all my wires, rearrange things, have some new electrical services put it, etc....Anyway, the apartment is a basement apartment and about 3 years I redid the whole place using latex primer and latex primer. Because of the moisture(i run 2 dehumidifiers at all times), certain parts of the walls started to peel.
As of right now I have just sanded and reprimed the walls using Kilz Oil Primer.
Is it OK to use latex finish paint over this or do you think I should stick with the oil paint? It seems like the oil paint takes many more coats to get the full coverage that only 1 coat of latex paint gets because of how much it absorbs into the wall.
I just don't want it to peel again and have this be a waste of time 3 years down the road.
Post edited by BaggedLancer on
Comments
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You should be fine painting over oil primer with latex, as long as the can doesn't say otherwise (I'm sure you looked already but needed to say that). My fiancee is a decorative painter, so if you have any other questions, feel free to ask!Wristwatch--->Crisco
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You should be fine painting over oil primer with latex, as long as the can doesn't say otherwise (I'm sure you looked already but needed to say that). My fiancee is a decorative painter, so if you have any other questions, feel free to ask!
Can doesn't say anything about it, although I am sure I will need atleast 2-3 coats of latex finish paint to go over the oil primer since its 3 solid coats of the Kilz Oil Primer(damn that stuff stinks!) -
Where's Opus? You might want to try and PM him.
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The primer will bind to the wall with no issue. You may get an issue however with the latex paint peeling from the primer if there is enough moisture. I would use oil on both (primer and paint). Latex andmoisture is a bad combination.
ShawnShawn
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DVD Player: Sony PS4 -
Where primarily does the peeling occur? On the two or three walls that are "underground" on the outside, or everywhere throughout the unit? Is it peeling more at the lowest part of the wall, or all the way up? Do you have a hygrometer to measure humidity levels in the unit? When you installed the sheetrock, were the walls and floors permanently sealed before application?
Once you answer these questions to the best of your ability, I can give you professional help.~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
I painted for many many years. You absolutely should use a latex paint over the Kilz. Read how long before you can paint after priming.Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
Where primarily does the peeling occur? On the two or three walls that are "underground" on the outside, or everywhere throughout the unit? Is it peeling more at the lowest part of the wall, or all the way up? Do you have a hygrometer to measure humidity levels in the unit? When you installed the sheetrock, were the walls and floors permanently sealed before application?
Once you answer these questions to the best of your ability, I can give you professional help.
Peeling occurs on the lower half of the walls. Occasionally my basement floods, but cannot get mroe than 1/2" in any given spot since it goes right out the doorway over the threshhold. All 3 walls are underground on the outside, 1 wall is the other side of the garage.
Yes the walls and floors were sealed as far as I know, but there could be spots failing because of the water that we get very rarely. The sheetrock was done over 20 years ago. Tearing everything down and finding the problem spots is non-optionial since funding just won't allow it. I have do the best I can sealing everything in with the Kilz and just paint over it. The problem spots are VERY small, with the largest one being just over a foot long and 1 inch wide. The rest are just small littles spots maybe 1 inch by 2 inches. -
put on the first coat of finish today, looks unbelievable compared to what i had done 3 years ago(im only doing sections at a time). Going to wait a few hours, put a 2nd coat on, then wait a few more hours and put a 3rd coat on. Attached is a few pictures of the progress. You can see in the last pic what the color of the wall was where i never primed before. Previously it had been wallpaper and the walls were that brown color all over....took weeks of bleaching to get them white again. And yes, that sheetrock patch looks like crap, I didn't do it it was there before and it's covered by the stove so I dont care.
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Looking good :-)Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
Looking good :-)
Thanks, I'm getting alot of help from me, myself and I
Not really the project I wanted to take on but it needs to be done right once and for all. Plus it finally gave me a reason to give my parents to let me tear the wall down near my home theater and put my LCD on the wall and do it all up nice. -
I painted for many many years. You absolutely should use a latex paint over the Kilz. Read how long before you can paint after priming.
Kilz is great stuff as is Dri-Lock. They need to be applied to bare cinder block before paint for them to work in this application. The room is looking good by the way."2 Channel & 11.2 HT "Two Channel:Magnepan LRSSchiit Audio Freya S - SS preConsonance Ref 50 - Tube preParasound HALO A21+ 2 channel ampBluesound NODE 2i streameriFi NEO iDSD DAC Oppo BDP-93KEF KC62 sub Home Theater:Full blown 11.2 set up. -
pearsall001 wrote: »Kilz is great stuff as is Dri-Lock. They need to be applied to bare cinder block before paint for them to work in this application. The room is looking good by the way.
Hm, last time I checked my walls weren't cinder block -
The "spots" that you have are a byproduct of the moisture issue that you have within the unit from what you have relayed to us. My recommendation would be to remove the sheetrock where the 1'x1' problem area is and evaluate what lies behind it. If the insulation is damp, black or you smell "algae" or something "funky" or you are able to press your fingers easily into the framework, then you have discovered what may be the source of part of the original problem. If all is dry behind the 1'x1' problem area, then patch back up, prime and paint.
Let the Kilz dry for at least 24 hours before you apply a coat of the type of paint you choose. To get rid of excess moisture in the unit, run a heater safely in the middle of the unit NO sooner than 4 hours after ventilating the last coat of Kilz. PM me with any questions.
The type of paint depends on what you want to accomplish. The longest lasting paint would be enamel paint [pain in the butt to work with, hard to clean, smells and will discolor sometimes within six months when exposed to UV rays. Extremely washable.
Satin, Eggshell or Semi-gloss brings you into the Latex arena, which is not a bad thing, given your "moisture barrier" layer of oil based Kilz. Washable, but not scrubbable.
Flat paint will adhere fine to the dried Kilz.
ALL of the above paints will peel eventually if there is moisture coming from the back end of the sheetrock. If this is the case, you are screwed....call a contractor and be prepared to bend over, or move. Consider a dry pump if problems persist.
Knowing this, Enamel, Semi-gloss, eggshell or Satin should be your paint of choice, but only high quality paint, as it will yeild another "moisture barrier" on top of the Kilz layer.
Sheen and color are now the next choice for you. Color is up to you. Sheen refers to the reflectivity of the paint itself. Enamel being the highest reflectivity, flat being the lowest. The higher the sheen, the more imperfections stand out and the easier to clean. The lower the sheen, the better the "hiding" of imperfections and the less you can clean.
In order of sheen [generally, brands and quality differs]......[highest to lowest]
Enamel
Semi-gloss
Eggshell
Satin
Flat~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
One more question, do the "problem areas" have a what looked like a brownish colored "ring" around them.....or did they before you applied the Kilz?~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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The "spots" that you have are a byproduct of the moisture issue that you have within the unit from what you have relayed to us. My recommendation would be to remove the sheetrock where the 1'x1' problem area is and evaluate what lies behind it. If the insulation is damp, black or you smell "algae" or something "funky" or you are able to press your fingers easily into the framework, then you have discovered what may be the source of part of the original problem. If all is dry behind the 1'x1' problem area, then patch back up, prime and paint.
Let the Kilz dry for at least 24 hours before you apply a coat of the type of paint you choose. To get rid of excess moisture in the unit, run a heater safely in the middle of the unit NO sooner than 4 hours after ventilating the last coat of Kilz. PM me with any questions.
The type of paint depends on what you want to accomplish. The longest lasting paint would be enamel paint [pain in the butt to work with, hard to clean, smells and will discolor sometimes within six months when exposed to UV rays. Extremely washable.
Satin, Eggshell or Semi-gloss brings you into the Latex arena, which is not a bad thing, given your "moisture barrier" layer of oil based Kilz. Washable, but not scrubbable.
Flat paint will adhere fine to the dried Kilz.
ALL of the above paints will peel eventually if there is moisture coming from the back end of the sheetrock. If this is the case, you are screwed....call a contractor and be prepared to bend over, or move. Consider a dry pump if problems persist.
Knowing this, Enamel, Semi-gloss, eggshell or Satin should be your paint of choice, but only high quality paint, as it will yeild another "moisture barrier" on top of the Kilz layer.
Sheen and color are now the next choice for you. Color is up to you. Sheen refers to the reflectivity of the paint itself. Enamel being the highest reflectivity, flat being the lowest. The higher the sheen, the more imperfections stand out and the easier to clean. The lower the sheen, the better the "hiding" of imperfections and the less you can clean.
In order of sheen [generally, brands and quality differs]......[highest to lowest]
Enamel
Semi-gloss
Eggshell
Satin
Flat
I am using Restoration Hardware interior latex paint, Silver Sage color. It says Velvet wall finish on it. Like I said previously, the inperfections are very minor and i was able to sand them right down to the sheetrock and kilz over it....I think a good portion of my problem was the half **** job I did priming and painting previously.
Next week I am taking an 8ft x 8ft piece of sheetrock down where I will be running my wires for the TV and mounting the TV on the wall. That should let me evaluate the damage behind the walls.
Reguardless of what I find behind the walls, there will be no contractor hired. The work will be done by myself and possibly my dad if he decides to help. He is in the trade business so anyone we need it will be a side job on weekends. -
One more question, do the "problem areas" have a what looked like a brownish colored "ring" around them.....or did they before you applied the Kilz?
There was a bit of brownish before I applied the kilz, it is all gone now and the part I painted was white as can be. -
Kitchen area is done and returned back to normal. Just finished cleaning the dust off everything(another major issue I have).
Going to paint that window well sometime this week when I decide what I am doing for a woodwork color....probably white again.
And yes I know that NONE Of my appliances match, however I am a college student on a budget so I buy what is cheap when I need it.....I'm not picky when it comes to that stuff. -
This is indicative of a water leak, either in the past or present. Nine times out of ten, the water source will be directly above or behind this discoloration [sometimes water finds a path to travel sideways which is not a pleasant thing to trace sometimes]. The oil based Kilz sealed up the visible water damage when you applied it, so there is no problem unless you see the tell tale "brownish rings" and start to feel the immediate area of sheetrock soft.BaggedLancer wrote:There was a bit of brownish before I applied the kilz, it is all gone now and the part I painted was white as can be.
However, it would be my recommendation to rip out a small section of the sheetrock and attempt to find the source of this water. It could be something as simple as a diffuser in a shower upstairs, or a O-ring on a toilet that is not seated properly [PM me, or ask away on this thread for the leak test procedure]. This should help your moisture issue and prevent any future paint that peels. Your choice of paint and quality will be fine for 20 years, provided the moisture does not come from the inside of the walls.~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
BaggedLancer wrote: »And yes I know that NONE Of my appliances match, however I am a college student on a budget so I buy what is cheap when I need it.....I'm not picky when it comes to that stuff.
Well said.engtaz
I love how music can brighten up a bad day. -
This is indicative of a water leak, either in the past or present. Nine times out of ten, the water source will be directly above or behind this discoloration [sometimes water finds a path to travel sideways which is not a pleasant thing to trace sometimes]. The oil based Kilz sealed up the visible water damage when you applied it, so there is no problem unless you see the tell tale "brownish rings" and start to feel the immediate area of sheetrock soft.
However, it would be my recommendation to rip out a small section of the sheetrock and attempt to find the source of this water. It could be something as simple as a diffuser in a shower upstairs, or a O-ring on a toilet that is not seated properly [PM me, or ask away on this thread for the leak test procedure]. This should help your moisture issue and prevent any future paint that peels. Your choice of paint and quality will be fine for 20 years, provided the moisture does not come from the inside of the walls.
The issue is there is no "ring" so to speak, just small brownish areas here and there. There is no soft sheetrock yet, so I still don't see a reason to cut the hole anyway. And there is absolutely no plumbing behind or above the areas I am having problems with so it cannot be the plumbing. I feel a feel it was surface moisture on the wall that is causing the problem cause of the humidity of the room. The only areas I had a problem were areas that had something in front of them, whether it be a microwave or a bureau or something. I don't think my problem lies behind the wall.
Because that is what I think it is, I now run 2 dehumidifiers(AC and a regular one) in hopes to to keep the humidity down. -
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treitz3, here's another question for you, what type of light would give the best subtle glow off this kind of paint I'm using? I am going to put some backlights behind the TV and want them to have a nice subtle glow all around. I don't want the light traveling 4 feet around the whole TV.
