Best Sound?

VTech
VTech Posts: 3
edited May 2007 in Car Audio & Electronics
Hi! just wonder between 2 ohm and 4 ohm, wich one make the best and strong sound?
i just bought a kenwood subwoofer dual coil 4 ohms wired at 2 ohms and the sound of it is not that great
if 4 ohms are better, i should buy 2 kicker 400 w rms running each of em at 4 ohms (single coil per woofer)

Amp kenwood kac9152d
900w x 1 at 1 ohm
900w x 1 at 2 ohm
500w x 1 at 4 ohm

heard those amps dont like to run at 1 ohm
Post edited by VTech on

Comments

  • exalted512
    exalted512 Posts: 10,735
    edited May 2007
    More than likely, you will not be able to hear a difference in quality of sound between 2 and 4 ohms, other than the output of 2 ohm being more than that of 4. What dont you like about the sound?
    -Cody
    Music is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it
  • Thom
    Thom Posts: 723
    edited May 2007
    In theory the higher load will sound better. Not that you'll really be able to hear it. I would run the 2 ohm vs. 1 ohm in the example above, since there's nothing to be gained by cutting the load in half. If it's the same power, why do it? In the car you'll be more concerened with heat than the slight difference in SQ, but that still means the higher imedance is a better idea.
  • Thom
    Thom Posts: 723
    edited May 2007
    VTech wrote: »
    Hi! just wonder between 2 ohm and 4 ohm, wich one make the best and strong sound?
    i just bought a kenwood subwoofer dual coil 4 ohms wired at 2 ohms and the sound of it is not that great
    if 4 ohms are better, i should buy 2 kicker 400 w rms running each of em at 4 ohms (single coil per woofer)

    Oh, and to actually answer the question- two 4 ohm woofers would give you either a 2 -or- 8 ohm final impedance. For a 4 ohm final impedance you'd need two woofers that are 8 ohms each, or 2 ohms each (or dual 4 ohm each), etc.

    Maybe the woofer you have isn't in the right box? Maybe it's crossed over too high (or not at all), maybe the gain is all the way up and it clips as soon as you turn up the volume?
  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited May 2007
    ... or maybe the guy's a dumbass.

    Walk into a Polk Audio forum, with ZERO previous posts, and you're first question is about how to rewire your Kenwood speakers, or if you should replace them with Kicker speakers.

    I'm surprised Thom even took the time to answer you.

    ... Further, I agree with Thom, theoretically, the higher load will sound better (be more musically true due to increased damping), but the chances of you actually hearing that are slim given the equipment listed.

    If anything, I've noticed the biggest increase (in my personal equipment) of subwoofer sound quality came when I increased amplifier headroom drastically.

    Not surprisingly, this was tried out after I observed that a pissload of headroom on the highs made an astonishing difference.

    Similar improvements can usually be achieved with electronic (or any other pre - amp) crossovers, as you're chopping the working signal down to a manageable range.

    Although... I hadn't expected it to affect subwoofers in the same manner... 20 to 80 or 20 to 100 hertz isn't a 'huge' range (at least not in my initial thought) of frequencies.
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge
  • VTech
    VTech Posts: 3
    edited May 2007
    im not, maybe poor but not a dumbass! if id know everything, i would never ask questions, specially in a forum, ...and the thing is i always ran my old system with 4 ohms woofer and this is my first time with 2 ohms, also with that new amp, the sound to me is different like more sober, heavy and stiff hard to explain..., the way i see it, i red the manual and saw that sentence: The rated input of the speakers should be no less than the maximum output of te amplifier. Otherwise malfunction may result. "something i didnt know" So if my amp is 900 watts rms at 2 ohms and running a sub of 380 watt rms dual 4ohms (760w total) wired at 2 ohms..., that could be a problem right?, but i still think that the new kenwood woofer 1500w made with titanium is maybe not such a great stuff for a great sound. im planning to buy Pioneer Premier 12" 3000w DVC Subwoofer TS-W3001D4 Sub 1000W RMS, maybe that will sound better?!?!?

    box: 15"x15"x15"
  • Toxis
    Toxis Posts: 5,116
    edited May 2007
    Kenwood... found the problem.
    Never kick a fresh **** on a hot day.

    Home Setup: Sony VPL-VW85 Projo, 92" Stewart Firehawk, Pioneer Elite SC-65, PS3, RTi12 fronts, CSi5, FXi6 rears, RTi6 surround backs, RTi4 height, MFW-15 Subwoofer.

    Car Setup: OEM Radio, RF 360.2v2, Polk SR6500 quad amped off 4 Xtant 1.1 100w mono amps, Xtant 6.1 to run an eD 13av.2, all Stinger wiring and Raammat deadener.
  • Greg Peters
    Greg Peters Posts: 605
    edited May 2007
    Just a point of curiosity...what brought you to the Polk forums for answers to your burning questions???

    I'd be thinking that unless there are some Polkies running your exact equipment, you'd be better served on a generic audio forum for best results.

    Some general answers- 2 ohm, 4 ohm, shouldn't matter too much provided your amplifier is stable at the lower impedance and doesn't have any noise issues that would be antagonized at the higher output level with the 2 ohm load.

    As for having more amplifier power on tap than your speakers are rated to handle (only look at RMS ratings- peak power ratings are not worth the ink they're printed with), it could be a good thing in the form of additional "headroom", or a bad thing if you don't know how to properly set gain levels or have minimal self-control with the volume level. It will depend on your knowledge level, expectations, and intended use of the equipment.

    Now for the "pitch"...Kenwood and Pioneer aren't necessarily great choices for subwoofers- mediocre, entry-level type stuff. The good news- you could find a far superior sub here: http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/products/subs/ that will put those other brands to shame :D .
  • Thom
    Thom Posts: 723
    edited May 2007
    VTech wrote: »
    box: 15"x15"x15"

    Assuming 3/4" wood and no bracing, that's 1.67 cu. ft. What size box is recommended for that woofer?
  • VTech
    VTech Posts: 3
    edited May 2007
    Sorry if im such a trouble, i wont bother anymore after this, kenwood is a problem i know, always hated the subs from them, but loves the amps
    i found this site from google, simple, saw some guys talking about subs, so i came here... didnt know that polk was a brand and a great one too, but well i might try one of those ;)
    Dimension spec for my woofer was something lik 15x15x15" without a hole and 18x18x18" with a hole, if this right, i lost the manual instruction for this woofer but it was something like that, my box is made with 3/4 mdf wood, thats what i used for my old woofer pioneer 500w 4 ohms and the sound was great but not strong enough for me
    i just bought a new box too with two rooms, that box is 1.25 Cubic Feet Per Chamber,Dimensions are Height 13" x Length 32" x Top Depth 12" x Bottom Depth 15.5, the sound o it is maybe a lil bit better but it sound less.
    and if i brace/screw the box, would that change something?

    I think i should THANK you Thom for trying to help me, not like the others :/
  • ilikesound
    ilikesound Posts: 355
    edited May 2007
    that was kinda pissy, though...my sympathies go to VTech.
    At Home:
    Panasonic 42'' TC-L42U12 LCD
    Pioneer VSX-80TXV
    Toshiba HD-XA2
    Sony PS3 - psn "metalguitars"
    Xbox 360 - gamertag "giggidygiggidy"
    Panamax 4300EX
    Polk RTi8's
    Polk CSi3's
    Polk FXi3's. (x2)
    Martin Logan Dynamo (x2)
    Audioquest interconnects and wires.

    Away From Home:
    JVC HDR-50
    stock system in new car for now:(