New Paint Jobs

VR3

How much is the normal cost - two tone, full blown, good exterior repainting?

dohcmark8

Do it yourself. With a brush.... you can do a pretty decent job... for under $100

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1

http://www.hondasociety.com/board/showthread.php?t=121415&page=3

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1555133&page=45

This one got a brush on job using marine paint...



This one used RustOleum paint available at any hardware store... also brushed on



A 'decent' paint job will run $2k... a good one $5k+

Maaco can do a crappy one for under $500 if you want.

BTW... Sid if the light in your radios display is out.. heres some info to fix it... http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4564880&postcount=1

rskarvan

I had an old Saturn painted at Earl Scheib for about $400 and it actually looked pretty good and the paint has stayed "stuck" for nearly 4 years now! (I sold it to a co-worker and see it every day in the parking lot).

VR3

I want a shop to do it. This is an involuntary paint job.

exalted512

Just like he said, a pretty good paint job will run around 2k, one that looks like it came from the factory will be around 6
-Cody

VR3

One for 2k - what would that involve?

Jstas

exalted512 wrote: »

Just like he said, a pretty good paint job will run around 2k, one that looks like it came from the factory will be around 6
-Cody

You got that backwards dude.

If you want a "factory" paint job, it'll cost you less. Unless of course you are trying to do an exact restoration and want the orange peel look.

If the vehicle is already painted and just needs to be reshot, it will likely cost less than 2K because they don't have to prep the car with primer, block sanding and all the other labor intensive stuff.

If the whole car needs to be prepped and painted then yes, 4-6K easily and depending on the size of the vehicle.

If just a body panel or two and maybe a bumper and tail light need to be replaced, it will depend on the cost of parts. The collision parts that need to be painted will likely come with a gel coat on the already that just needs to sanded and shot with paint.

Most body shops would rather not paint an entire car for a small amount of collision damage. It's labor intensive and takes alot of time. If a fender is banged up, it's cheaper to just replace the fender and match the paint. If it's a repairable dent, they pull the dent, straighten the panel, do teh prep work and match the paint.

Since the vehicle is two-tone though, that will add cost because it adds and extra set of steps in prep-work and painting and adds time to the process. Bottom line, ClubPolk is not the best place to be asking for a good idea. Go to a body shop, ask for an estimate. Most will give you a free estimate. They'll take 10 minutes to look at the vehicle and tell you what it needs. They'll write down a number and tell you when they can get you in to thier schedule. That's the best way to go about it.

Keep in mind that regional areas can affect prices or parts and paint. Don't be afraid to shop around. Call two or three shops and get estimates from each one. Look at the work being done and what has rolled out of the shop. A collision shop will be less expensive than a body shop and alot busier. They usually take insurance claims too so work is "wham, bam, thank you ma'am, give us yer money and be gone!" A body shop that does more customer work is likely to take more time to do the work and do it right but they will be more expensive.

Oh yeah, don't get a paint job that is worth more than the vehicle. You will never recuperate the costs unless you are going to hold on to it until you die.

VR3

Could they paint over a 16 year old paint job effectively?

And --- could they match 16 year old paint?

Jstas

Yes. Even if the paint is flaking or alligatored, it can be painted over. It's all in the prep work.

If the paint is faded and unrepairable, the would just have to sand it until they got to a useable base. They would have to fix any problem spots and rust and such and then reshoot it.

But without looking at it in person, it's hard to tell what your situation is. That's why you should take it to a bodyshop.

I've done bodywork myself so I know what is entailed but without seeing it in person, it's hard to tell you what you would need to do. I am also, by no means, an expert on body repair. My knowledge is limited and alot of these collision places have some real spiffy technology to match paint and fix/straighten things.

VR3

There is no fading - paint is near perfect except for orange peel and the scratches and dings on the front of the hood.

I plan to take it to a body shop - but wanted to get a general idea of cost.

Thanks for the help.

exalted512

Well, the shops around here do exactly how I said. A paint job that might have a couple of specs or fish eyes with a little more orange peel than stock with only 1 or 2 coats of clear will run around 2k. For something thats factory quality, rips most of the car apart to get paint across the vehicle (behind door panels, etc) with no specs or fish eyes, and a little less orange peel than stock, will run you around 5k. But I'm sure the pricing is different here than where you are. Hell, the pricing in this town is more expensive than Houston which is only an hour away.

But like John said, paint is something you dont get back when you sell the car. My co-worker sold his wifes mazda mx6 for $500 more than what he paid to paint it 8 months prior. Food for thought.
-Cody

MacLeod

dohcmark8 wrote: »

This gives me a hard on!

exalted512

Tmi.

PoweredByDodge

Cost me $17,000 ... stripped to metal and then done from there. About 3 grand of it was for an exhaust and painting the motor, so call it $14 I guess.



Christ, I gotta get the new pictures on here... damn thing looks almost like a different car now.

Also - from my research, you guys are pretty far off...

A quality job including the following...
- strip
- fix a minor amount of rust
- seal
- prime
- 3x base
- 3x clear

... on a decent size vehicle (full size modern Impala, Crown Vic, any Pickup Truck, etc), will run between $10 and $15 thousand. I've had my 88 truck verbally quoted at "$12 or more".


PS -- 'quality' of the job should be spotless. No runs, no drips, no fisheyes, minimal orange peel, no hazing, no blistering, nothing. It should 'wear' (read as "last") as long or longer than a modern factory finish, and should be just as thorough (doors, hood, trunk, etc. are all removed before shooting paint). In short, you should not be able to tell the vehicle was ever painted. All areas that the factory hit with paint should be hit during the re-paint, and with as good or better quality. Else, why bother painting a car? Just get 2 pints of the right color from Dupont or PPG for 30 to 60 bucks, a decent air compressor powered spray gun for 20 to 30 bucks, and shoot the crappy areas yourself. top with clear and shoot clear to panel edges or to break points. for 100 to 200 bucks its 'cheap as free' and won't look bad at all.

dohcmark8

Sid asked for a good paint job... not a perfect one. Not many people are gonna spring $10k+ to repaint a car.

Now if you stick with the same color, its easier and can be a bit cheaper, you can get a decent spray job for under $5k.

To be honest, for an older truck. I'd prep it myself and trailer it down to Maaco and have them shoot it with their best quality paint and a shot of clear. Should run about $1500-$2000-ish. And will look pretty damn good.

Jstas

Alright everybody, look, it's time to get reasonable. If that paint isn't faded, the rest of the paint is in good condition and you only have damage in a small area, get the small area fixed. There's no reason to go and repaint an entire vehicle for thousands of dollars when a simple panel replacement prepped and shot with paint for a few hundred bucks will work just fine and be damn near completely unnoticable. Especially if you have solid colors on the two tone and no metal flake. IIRC, it's red and white. That's a cinch to match. The boundry is probably covered by trim pieces or pinstriping anyway and totally unnoticable.

Otherwise, you are wasting money that could be spent better elsewhere or even saved. The only reasons to repaint an entire vehicle is for show or restoration purposes. A show vehicle is in a different league paint-wise. A resto job is just as expensive and more detailed and that vehicle better be damn well worth it if you are going to stip it to bare metal, prep and repaint. The only reasons you should paint anything at all is due to excessive paint damage from a collision, poor storage methods, the elements or you replaced a body panel for some odd reason.

Sure, a new paint job is nice but on a daily driver, you don't want to drop thousands because the first dumptruck that drops a rock infront of you will throw all the money, time and work right out the window.

dohcmark8

Jstas wrote: »

Alright everybody, look, it's time to get reasonable. If that paint isn't faded, the rest of the paint is in good condition and you only have damage in a small area, get the small area fixed. There's no reason to go and repaint an entire vehicle for thousands of dollars when a simple panel replacement prepped and shot with paint for a few hundred bucks will work just fine and be damn near completely unnoticable. Especially if you have solid colors on the two tone and no metal flake. IIRC, it's red and white. That's a cinch to match. The boundry is probably covered by trim pieces or pinstriping anyway and totally unnoticable.

Otherwise, you are wasting money that could be spent better elsewhere or even saved. The only reasons to repaint an entire vehicle is for show or restoration purposes. A show vehicle is in a different league paint-wise. A resto job is just as expensive and more detailed and that vehicle better be damn well worth it if you are going to stip it to bare metal, prep and repaint. The only reasons you should paint anything at all is due to excessive paint damage from a collision, poor storage methods, the elements or you replaced a body panel for some odd reason.

Sure, a new paint job is nice but on a daily driver, you don't want to drop thousands because the first dumptruck that drops a rock infront of you will throw all the money, time and work right out the window.

Agreed.

I have seen pics of Sid's truck... it's in beautiful condition for a '91. Heck I am picking up a '89 F150 next week that looks much worse than that, the hood is rusty and such.

I will be doing a complete repaint on my own, as I have the time and the patience. If I don't like the way it looks, then too bad because its a work truck and no one really cares what it looks like as long as it can run and haul the loads. I mostly just want to cover up the rust.

rskarvan

PBDodge, very elegant classic Cadillac. 4 out of 4 Stars!!!

engtaz

[/QUOTE]

Tha t car is awesome. It is making me studder typing.

PoweredByDodge

I more of less thought Vr3 was doing a 'summer car' (whether it be a restore job or just something that was his baby), from the fact that he'd be going two-tone and 'full blown'.

If this is a daily driver, however, that you just want to look respectable and be something that you can drive around in and feel good about yourself and your car, then John's got it right.

Look for ares of obvious rot or where the paint really is damaged (not just 'weathered'). Have those areas prepped (sometimes you can get away without even getting down to the oem primer), re-shot, and then topped off with blending clear (so that you don't have to do entire panels.

Taking that route - $1,500 bucks will get you a lot better quality job and a longer lasting finish than if you had the whole car done... because that cash is going into just the areas that need it.

Then dump $30 on a very low power palm buffer at Home Depot or your local autoparts store. Coleman makes one... so does Ryobi. They're no where near strong enough to hurt your finish.

Get some rubbing compound, and some 3 stage wax (1= scratch remover, 2 = polish, 3 = wax), and follow the instructions... doing the whole car. Note - the areas you just had refinished by the shop, you will not use the rubbing compound or scratch remover on those ares - just polish and wax).

When you're done, you'll have whatever the paint work cost you, plus maybe $100 bucks in buffer and wax stuff, and you'll have a car you can respect.