Cleaning aluminum faceplates

aaharvel
aaharvel Posts: 4,489
edited April 2007 in Electronics
my sig. 2.1 amp is starting to show a few random fingerprints. What is recommended to clean aluminum when this happens? Thanks.
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Post edited by aaharvel on

Comments

  • zombie boy 2000
    zombie boy 2000 Posts: 6,641
    edited April 2007
    Throw it in the garbage and buy a new one.
    I never had it like this where I grew up. But I send my kids here because the fact is you go to one of the best schools in the country: Rushmore. Now, for some of you it doesn't matter. You were born rich and you're going to stay rich. But here's my advice to the rest of you: Take dead aim on the rich boys. Get them in the crosshairs and take them down. Just remember, they can buy anything but they can't buy backbone. Don't let them forget it. Thank you.Herman Blume - Rushmore
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,705
    edited April 2007
    Windex sprayed on a soft cotton cloth first.
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  • aaharvel
    aaharvel Posts: 4,489
    edited April 2007
    hmm.. i tried that already and it did help somewhat (the windex, not the garbage can) but still.. i'm afraid the aluminum might be coming off. Anyways, thanks F1. I'll keep working on it.
    H/K Signature 2.1+235
    Jungson MagicBoat II
    Revel Performa M-20
    Velodyne cht-10 sub
    Rega P1 Turntable

    "People working at Polk Audio must sit around the office and just laugh their balls off reading many of these comments." -Lush
  • TN_Polk_Lover
    TN_Polk_Lover Posts: 243
    edited April 2007
    If it is real aluminum, then it is probably coated with a clear lacquer (sp?) coating. Pure, uncoated aluminum will oxidize and creates black marks when it rubs against other things, including your fingers.

    Assuming it is coated with lacquer, I would not use anything stronger than a mild dishwashing detergent such as Dawn. Or you can you a microfiber cloth. I have found them pretty cheap at Sam's Club in the optical department.
    Robert
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,705
    edited April 2007
    Almost all faceplates are anodized aluminum, you won't hurt it with Windex. Just be careful around the silkscreen lettering.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


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  • Bill Ayotte
    Bill Ayotte Posts: 1,860
    edited April 2007
    F1nut wrote: »
    Almost all faceplates are anodized aluminum, you won't hurt it with Windex. Just be careful around the silkscreen lettering.

    I watched someone wipe off the lettering on a minty Carver C-1 rubbing the hell out of it with some Windex and a cloth.....I would get the NON-ammonia Windex just to be safe.......
  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited April 2007
    Let me know if you go with the garbage can idea and I'll be digging through your trash. :D You might try just a cotton cloth and water. Sometimes it the simplest ideas that work the best.
  • danger boy
    danger boy Posts: 15,722
    edited April 2007
    i usually just use some mild soap and water.. small amounts of each... and rub and scrub then dry it off with a nice soft cloth. How old is the amp?

    can you post a pic of it? just for the halibut? ;)
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  • aaharvel
    aaharvel Posts: 4,489
    edited April 2007
    alrighty thanks for the advice guys- i'll definitely look into it and i'll post a pic of the faceplate in a couple of days (when i get back from vacation ;)
    H/K Signature 2.1+235
    Jungson MagicBoat II
    Revel Performa M-20
    Velodyne cht-10 sub
    Rega P1 Turntable

    "People working at Polk Audio must sit around the office and just laugh their balls off reading many of these comments." -Lush
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,576
    edited April 2007
    I use a Dremel with a wire brush attachment.

    In reality I've used a few things depending on the finish of the aluminum. I've seen coated Al but most is anodized. Windex is my usual cleaning choice but I've used Mother's Al polish on silver and black pieces with no issues. Just don't rub it like your hands in your pants and you should be fine. YMMV.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,959
    edited April 2007
    See if you can find a product called Invisible Glass, it will not harm the finish and will take all residue and fingerprint oils completely off leaving you with a perfect,brand new look [minus scratches, dings, or other permanent damage]. I used to purchase this product at Sam's club but the store I go to has discontinued that brand. Hope this helps.
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  • TN_Polk_Lover
    TN_Polk_Lover Posts: 243
    edited April 2007
    treitz3 wrote: »
    See if you can find a product called Invisible Glass, it will not harm the finish and will take all residue and fingerprint oils completely off leaving you with a perfect,brand new look [minus scratches, dings, or other permanent damage]. I used to purchase this product at Sam's club but the store I go to has discontinued that brand. Hope this helps.

    Isn't "Invisible Glass" a petroleum solvent based product? If it is, I would think that it might dissolve any lettering that is printed on the faceplate. I would be sure to read the label carefully on that product before using it on anything other than glass. Just my $.02.

    Robert
    Robert
    You are officially in the high-end of the deep-end of the top-end.

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  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,959
    edited April 2007
    The label does not indicate that it is a petroleum based product. The only information given is that it contains; water, hydrocarbon blend, and hydrocarbon propellant. The label states that "Safe to use on original equipment manufactured [OEM]". You can even use this product on most aftermarket tinted windows. The only warning listed is that it is not recommended for use on polycarbonate plastic. I clean my windows, stovetop, microwave etc... with this product yeilding excellent results with no issues after a year of consistant use.

    I use it to restore all my stereo gear, no matter what the brand and have incountered nothing but excellent results with no degradation of lettering.

    (No affiliation by the way)
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • W WALDECKER
    W WALDECKER Posts: 900
    edited April 2007
    treitz3 wrote: »
    The label does not indicate that it is a petroleum based product. The only information given is that it contains; water, hydrocarbon blend, and hydrocarbon propellant. The label states that "Safe to use on original equipment manufactured [OEM]". You can even use this product on most aftermarket tinted windows. The only warning listed is that it is not recommended for use on polycarbonate plastic. I clean my windows, stovetop, microwave etc... with this product yeilding excellent results with no issues after a year of consistant use.

    I use it to restore all my stereo gear, no matter what the brand and have incountered nothing but excellent results with no degradation of lettering.

    (No affiliation by the way)
    it probably contains naptha which is a aromatic hydrocarbon*NOTE: Hydrocarbons are made during the oil refining process and are most definately petroleum based
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  • dragon1952
    dragon1952 Posts: 4,907
    edited April 2007
    I thought I read somewhere that straight (pure) diluted ammonia worked well. Or something that started with "A" anyway :D

    EDIT: Yeah, it was ammonia. Do a Google on 'aluminum faceplate clean* ammonia'
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  • Emlyn
    Emlyn Posts: 4,649
    edited April 2007
    Sometimes fingerprints will permanently etch some aluminum faceplates if left on for a while, and there's nothing that will solve that problem. Endust for electronics or Windex work well. The best thing to do is to prevent the problem in the first place by wearing light cotton gloves (the kind one should wear when handling tubes) when moving gear in and out of a rack.