The always/never list for external amps

cnjvh
cnjvh Posts: 253
edited April 2007 in Electronics
I'm starting the search for external amplification. I will be using the Denon 3805 as the pre/pro and it will be driving the RTi line (12's in the front, 8's in the back, CSi5 center).

I'm looking for solid state, not tube. I appreciate the warmth of tubes but I'm not wanting the maintenance and I'd always be wondering if it's my tubes if I hear something not quite right. I'd be replacing the things every month out of paranoia ;)

So on the always/never list:

1. When shopping for an amp, always make sure it has ____________ .

2. Never buy an amp that has _____________ .

The bonus opinion questions:

3. In your experience, is it better to buy multiple mono/stereo amps, one big 7channel amp, or mix it up? It seems to me multiple amps would be better just for versatility and each amp's power supply having less load (although one would hope a properly designed 7 channel amp would account for this in the power supply design).

4. Not going to ask "which is best", I just need a list of known quality manufacturers that bear investigation. I can do my own legwork from there.


BTW, I know there's no such thing as always and never.

Thanks!!
No earth robot is going to tell ME which button to press!!

--Stuff--
Front: Polk Audio RTi12
Center: Polk Audio CSi5
Surrounds: Polk Audio RTi8 (x4)
Sub: SVS PB10-ISD (Dual)
AVR: Denon AVR-3805
Blu-Ray: Panasonic BD30
Display: Sony KDL-55NX720B
STB: Xfinity X1DVR
Post edited by cnjvh on

Comments

  • zombie boy 2000
    zombie boy 2000 Posts: 6,641
    edited April 2007
    For some reason I have that Heatwave song Always and Forever in my head now.

    My first bit of advise would be to buy used if you feel you're the type of person to nitpick and are prone to dissatisfaction. No need to be tossing money down the proverbial well in your search.
    I never had it like this where I grew up. But I send my kids here because the fact is you go to one of the best schools in the country: Rushmore. Now, for some of you it doesn't matter. You were born rich and you're going to stay rich. But here's my advice to the rest of you: Take dead aim on the rich boys. Get them in the crosshairs and take them down. Just remember, they can buy anything but they can't buy backbone. Don't let them forget it. Thank you.Herman Blume - Rushmore
  • dudeinaroom
    dudeinaroom Posts: 3,609
    edited April 2007
    Just do some looking around in the forums and you will see a slew of names. Read some of the signatures. If you look hard enough you will even find links to sites that have quite a bit of mid- to hifi offerings. good luck, I'm sure some one will chime in and share there wisdom.

    Later,
    dude
  • Ricardo
    Ricardo Posts: 10,636
    edited April 2007
    Lots of good options available out there (Rotel, Outlaw, Adcom, etc). There is one thing that at least for me would be in the "always" list, and that is to get an amp that has 12v triggers or auto on when detecting a signal coming from the pre. I'd hate to have to turn on/off the amp manually (yes, I am spoiled in this era of universal remotes ;))
    _________________________________________________
    ***\\\\\........................... My Audio Journey ............................./////***

    2008 & 2010 Football Pool WINNER
    SOPA
    Thank God for different opinions. Imagine the world if we all wanted the same woman
  • cnjvh
    cnjvh Posts: 253
    edited April 2007
    What is meant by the different classes (A/B/D etc.)?
    No earth robot is going to tell ME which button to press!!

    --Stuff--
    Front: Polk Audio RTi12
    Center: Polk Audio CSi5
    Surrounds: Polk Audio RTi8 (x4)
    Sub: SVS PB10-ISD (Dual)
    AVR: Denon AVR-3805
    Blu-Ray: Panasonic BD30
    Display: Sony KDL-55NX720B
    STB: Xfinity X1DVR
  • cfrizz
    cfrizz Posts: 13,415
    edited April 2007
    I personally would make sure to get a minimum of 200wpc or more.
    I would personally get a multichannel 5-7 amp just to have 1 box & outlet to worry about. Also, amps are pretty bullet proof as far as problems go.

    Because of that I would look at Audiogon for used amps. I also agree with the auto on feature.

    Adcom, Rotel, Parasound, Outlaw, Sunfire, the list goes on & on.
    Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2
  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited April 2007
    Most important question -- what's your budget?

    Also, the answers to your questions partly depends on how you use your system. For instance, if you use your HT system for 2-channel music playback, I'd suggest focusing on the best 2-channel amp you can buy and let the Denon power the rest of your speakers.

    Give us more details of your listening habits and what you hope to achieve.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
  • cnjvh
    cnjvh Posts: 253
    edited April 2007
    The target budget would be around 2500 but if that is unrealistically low I will adjust upwards as required.

    Listening habits are 7.1 (PLIIx) for movies and 2 channel direct mode for music.

    Wouldn't combining the Denon's amps with external amps cause "different" sound between the channels? Although I suppose the difference would be convered by the fact that my mains are different than my surrounds anyway.
    No earth robot is going to tell ME which button to press!!

    --Stuff--
    Front: Polk Audio RTi12
    Center: Polk Audio CSi5
    Surrounds: Polk Audio RTi8 (x4)
    Sub: SVS PB10-ISD (Dual)
    AVR: Denon AVR-3805
    Blu-Ray: Panasonic BD30
    Display: Sony KDL-55NX720B
    STB: Xfinity X1DVR
  • mldennison
    mldennison Posts: 307
    edited April 2007
    cnjvh wrote: »
    Wouldn't combining the Denon's amps with external amps cause "different" sound between the channels? Although I suppose the difference would be convered by the fact that my mains are different than my surrounds anyway.
    i doubt that you will notice any sort of difference. since the front soundstage is definatly the most important, i agree with early, focus on a good 2/3 channel amp for the fronts and leave the denon for the surrounds. that is what i am doing and i like the results.
  • dudeinaroom
    dudeinaroom Posts: 3,609
    edited April 2007
    I've got a Denon AVR 785(silver version of the 1905) It pushes 80 watts/ch at 8 ohms which my center and surrounds are, and I've got an Adcom gfa 555 that pushes 325 at 4 ohms which my mains are. Huge power difference but as long as you go threw and recalibrate your speaker levels all will be fine.
  • Ricardo
    Ricardo Posts: 10,636
    edited April 2007
    Based on the speakers you have as surrounds and your budget, I'd get amplification for all channels. Could be one (7) or two (2+5).
    _________________________________________________
    ***\\\\\........................... My Audio Journey ............................./////***

    2008 & 2010 Football Pool WINNER
    SOPA
    Thank God for different opinions. Imagine the world if we all wanted the same woman
  • aaharvel
    aaharvel Posts: 4,489
    edited April 2007
    CNJVH, get a 7channel amp and bi-amp the 12's. The three chanels remaining can feed power to the 8's and 5.

    You can start with Outlaw, Adcom, Parasound, B&K.
    H/K Signature 2.1+235
    Jungson MagicBoat II
    Revel Performa M-20
    Velodyne cht-10 sub
    Rega P1 Turntable

    "People working at Polk Audio must sit around the office and just laugh their balls off reading many of these comments." -Lush
  • Ricardo
    Ricardo Posts: 10,636
    edited April 2007
    I think he has two pairs of 8's (listens to 7.1).
    _________________________________________________
    ***\\\\\........................... My Audio Journey ............................./////***

    2008 & 2010 Football Pool WINNER
    SOPA
    Thank God for different opinions. Imagine the world if we all wanted the same woman
  • cfrizz
    cfrizz Posts: 13,415
    edited April 2007
    You will notice a difference in the volume & clarity of the back speakers. They enjoy the benefits of separate amplification just like the front stage does. It is especially important since you listen in 7.1, and would make a HUGE difference for multichannel sacd's & dvd-a's.

    Darkside Of The Moon is incredible in 5.1 channels!:D

    cnjvh wrote: »
    The target budget would be around 2500 but if that is unrealistically low I will adjust upwards as required.

    Listening habits are 7.1 (PLIIx) for movies and 2 channel direct mode for music.

    Wouldn't combining the Denon's amps with external amps cause "different" sound between the channels? Although I suppose the difference would be convered by the fact that my mains are different than my surrounds anyway.
    Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2
  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited April 2007
    With a budget of $2,500, sell the Denon and buy a pre/pro and separate 7 channel amp. Done.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 33,020
    edited April 2007
    Early B. wrote: »
    With a budget of $2,500, sell the Denon and buy a pre/pro and separate 7 channel amp. Done.

    +1 on that idea bro.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
  • cnjvh
    cnjvh Posts: 253
    edited April 2007
    Is the Denon really that poor as a pre/pro?
    No earth robot is going to tell ME which button to press!!

    --Stuff--
    Front: Polk Audio RTi12
    Center: Polk Audio CSi5
    Surrounds: Polk Audio RTi8 (x4)
    Sub: SVS PB10-ISD (Dual)
    AVR: Denon AVR-3805
    Blu-Ray: Panasonic BD30
    Display: Sony KDL-55NX720B
    STB: Xfinity X1DVR
  • cnjvh
    cnjvh Posts: 253
    edited April 2007
    Actually having thought about I think I'd like to do the pre/pro upgrade as a separate step. This would allow for a larger budget for both upgrades and allow pre/pros that decode TrueHD and DTS-HD to become available and come down in price.
    No earth robot is going to tell ME which button to press!!

    --Stuff--
    Front: Polk Audio RTi12
    Center: Polk Audio CSi5
    Surrounds: Polk Audio RTi8 (x4)
    Sub: SVS PB10-ISD (Dual)
    AVR: Denon AVR-3805
    Blu-Ray: Panasonic BD30
    Display: Sony KDL-55NX720B
    STB: Xfinity X1DVR
  • engtaz
    engtaz Posts: 7,664
    edited April 2007
    no, Your Denon is fine. You have all the audio connections you need. Use it as a pre pro and add external amps as funds come available. Fronts and Center are the main speakers in HT amplify accordantly.
    engtaz

    I love how music can brighten up a bad day.
  • cstpeter
    cstpeter Posts: 387
    edited April 2007
    Outlaw B-Stock:

    https://www.outlawaudio.com/mofcart/bstock.html

    Model 970 7.1 Pre/pro: $649
    Model 7700 7 x 200W amp: $1979

    Word.
    Von Schweikert VR4-jr
    Valve Audio Predator
    Denon DVD-2900
    PS Audio Digital Link III w/Cullen Level IV Mods
    Pro-Ject Xpression w/Blue Point No. 2
    Graham Slee Special Edition 2
    PS Audio UPC-200
  • cnjvh
    cnjvh Posts: 253
    edited April 2007
    That 7700 only shows a freq. response of 20Hz to 20KHz? That doesn't sound right...could it drive full range mains properly only going down to 20Hz? Granted thats lower than most music but is it normal for an amp to only go down to 20? Or is that just the measured range?
    No earth robot is going to tell ME which button to press!!

    --Stuff--
    Front: Polk Audio RTi12
    Center: Polk Audio CSi5
    Surrounds: Polk Audio RTi8 (x4)
    Sub: SVS PB10-ISD (Dual)
    AVR: Denon AVR-3805
    Blu-Ray: Panasonic BD30
    Display: Sony KDL-55NX720B
    STB: Xfinity X1DVR
  • engtaz
    engtaz Posts: 7,664
    edited April 2007
    Yes, it usually means the Flat curve response before drop off.
    engtaz

    I love how music can brighten up a bad day.
  • TN_Polk_Lover
    TN_Polk_Lover Posts: 243
    edited April 2007
    cnjvh wrote: »
    What is meant by the different classes (A/B/D etc.)?

    This is probably not the best description. Class A has the best "purest" sound but it requires a higher bias current and therefore the amp runs hot all the time, even when not playing music.

    Class B runs cooler and takes less power, but does not sound as good as class A. There are many amp designs that combine both and are called AB or by some other designation.

    I think that class D is a digital design. I don't know too much about these other than they are supposed to be highly efficient (use much less electricity from the outlet to produce the same wattage.)
    Robert
    You are officially in the high-end of the deep-end of the top-end.

    Bonus Room Over Garage:
    Toshiba 27" CRT TV
    Digital Source: Sony DVP-NS3100ES
    DVR: Panasonic DMR-ES15
    Denon 3806 AV Receiver
    - L/R Preamp out to Parasound HCA-1200 Amp
    Polk RTi70's, CSi40 Center, RTi38 Side Surrounds, RTi38 Back Surrounds

    Living Room: (2ch only)
    TV: Sony KV20-FV12
    DVD Player: Sony DVP-NS715P
    Yamaha R9 Receiver Polk RTi38's
  • cnjvh
    cnjvh Posts: 253
    edited April 2007
    Thanks for the info. Just from the specs I've started to read, most audio amps are AB at this time. I've seen a few D's, but they're much newer models. It seems D is a newer application for audio whereas AB is much more "tried and true".
    No earth robot is going to tell ME which button to press!!

    --Stuff--
    Front: Polk Audio RTi12
    Center: Polk Audio CSi5
    Surrounds: Polk Audio RTi8 (x4)
    Sub: SVS PB10-ISD (Dual)
    AVR: Denon AVR-3805
    Blu-Ray: Panasonic BD30
    Display: Sony KDL-55NX720B
    STB: Xfinity X1DVR
  • mulveling
    mulveling Posts: 505
    edited April 2007
    Also, there's what's called "High bias" class AB, which typically runs the first few or several Watts in class A and anything after that runs in class AB. For example, the Parasound Halo A21 is rated for 250 Watts (into 8 ohms), the first 8 of which run in class A. The higher-end JC-1 is rated for 400 Watts and the first 20 are class A. These amps, when properly designed, sound VERY good, since most of the audio signal is contained in those first few Watts until you push it to very LOUD volume levels. I also have a well designed tube headphone amp that operates in this manner; it sounds phenomenal. These amps all run very HOT and are quite inefficient; but it's well worth the energy waste ;)

    1. When shopping for an amp, always make sure it has panache (big-**** heatsinks are an acceptable substitute).

    2. Never buy an amp that has a hardwired power cord.

    I keed, I keed
    :D:D
    Tannoy Dimension TD10, SOTA Star Sapphire, Heathkit W4A's, McIntosh MC2100, Eddie-Current Zana Deux, Singlepower SDS, Sennheiser HD650, Audio-Technica L3000, Sony Qualia 010