Thiel Tweeter replacement
AndyGwis
Posts: 3,655
Hello DIYers. . .
I have some very nice Thiel CS1.2s in my 2-channel rig. While I really like the overall sound of the speakers, I've noticed the left tweeter to be a little distorted at times, especially with accoustic guitar and some female vocals.
Tweeter's are original and probably need to be replaced and/or serviced to get back to specs. Thiel charges a flat $40 apiece for tweeter repair.
However, I thought I might like to try something other than the metallic domes. I found some at Partsexpress (Vifa D27TG-35 1" silk dome) that seem to be the same size (I'll re-measure enclosure before purchasing), same impedance (6 ohm nominal), and same general power handling as the originals.
Is there anything else I need to check for before purchasing to make sure these will work okay? If I decide the originals sound better, I'll simply resell the Vifa's and get the originals repaired by Thiel.
But, there is a good possibility that I will spend less money to get a better sounding speaker. I like mellow speakers, so silk domes would seem to fit my tastes better than metallic.
I would think about going with something even better than these VIFAs, but the higher dollar ones seem to have different enclosure sizes/shapes (the Thiel's have four screws along outer edge). I'll take opinions if anyone has them for me
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=264-526
I have some very nice Thiel CS1.2s in my 2-channel rig. While I really like the overall sound of the speakers, I've noticed the left tweeter to be a little distorted at times, especially with accoustic guitar and some female vocals.
Tweeter's are original and probably need to be replaced and/or serviced to get back to specs. Thiel charges a flat $40 apiece for tweeter repair.
However, I thought I might like to try something other than the metallic domes. I found some at Partsexpress (Vifa D27TG-35 1" silk dome) that seem to be the same size (I'll re-measure enclosure before purchasing), same impedance (6 ohm nominal), and same general power handling as the originals.
Is there anything else I need to check for before purchasing to make sure these will work okay? If I decide the originals sound better, I'll simply resell the Vifa's and get the originals repaired by Thiel.
But, there is a good possibility that I will spend less money to get a better sounding speaker. I like mellow speakers, so silk domes would seem to fit my tastes better than metallic.
I would think about going with something even better than these VIFAs, but the higher dollar ones seem to have different enclosure sizes/shapes (the Thiel's have four screws along outer edge). I'll take opinions if anyone has them for me
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=264-526
Stereo Rig: Hales Revelation 3, Musical Fidelity CD-Pre 24, Forte Model 3 amp, Lexicon RT-10 SACD, MMF-5 w/speedbox, Forte Model 2 Phono Pre, Cardas Crosslink, APC H15, URC MX-950, Lovan Stand
Bedroom: Samsung HPR-4252, Toshiba HD-A2, HK 3480, Signal Cable, AQ speaker cable, Totem Dreamcatchers, SVS PB10-NSD, URC MX-850
Bedroom: Samsung HPR-4252, Toshiba HD-A2, HK 3480, Signal Cable, AQ speaker cable, Totem Dreamcatchers, SVS PB10-NSD, URC MX-850
Post edited by AndyGwis on
Comments
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Jim Thiel is turning the other way because he can't bear to watch the extensive engineering of his cross-over being compromised.
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I'll take that as 1 not-so-subtle vote for sending the originals in for servicing.
Taken into advisement. Thanks for your opinion. Other opinions welcome.Stereo Rig: Hales Revelation 3, Musical Fidelity CD-Pre 24, Forte Model 3 amp, Lexicon RT-10 SACD, MMF-5 w/speedbox, Forte Model 2 Phono Pre, Cardas Crosslink, APC H15, URC MX-950, Lovan Stand
Bedroom: Samsung HPR-4252, Toshiba HD-A2, HK 3480, Signal Cable, AQ speaker cable, Totem Dreamcatchers, SVS PB10-NSD, URC MX-850 -
I am all for experimenting, but there are more factors than just nominal ohm rating a size when it comes to replacing a driver. My best guess is that the other electrical properties of the original tweeter are much different than the PE tweeter. Of course you'll need to replace both, but you may end up spending more money in the long run. Does PE have a return policy for drivers if they don't fit the application after you've experimented?
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
I'll check into return/refund policy at PE.
What are some potential negative affects of using the Vifa's in the Thiels? Are we talking "it may not sound as good because the originals were specifically selected, tuned, engineered for that speaker," or, "the Vifa's would likely create flames and potentially cause a chemical fire that would consume most of North Dallas."Stereo Rig: Hales Revelation 3, Musical Fidelity CD-Pre 24, Forte Model 3 amp, Lexicon RT-10 SACD, MMF-5 w/speedbox, Forte Model 2 Phono Pre, Cardas Crosslink, APC H15, URC MX-950, Lovan Stand
Bedroom: Samsung HPR-4252, Toshiba HD-A2, HK 3480, Signal Cable, AQ speaker cable, Totem Dreamcatchers, SVS PB10-NSD, URC MX-850 -
$40 a pop? Send them both in. No brainer.Check your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service.
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If it was a $100 speaker, with common drivers and a simple crossover, I would agree on experimenting. Being a Thiel, I'd say keep them original._________________________________________________
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SOPAThank God for different opinions. Imagine the world if we all wanted the same woman -
I'll check into return/refund policy at PE.
What are some potential negative affects of using the Vifa's in the Thiels? Are we talking "it may not sound as good because the originals were specifically selected, tuned, engineered for that speaker," or, "the Vifa's would likely create flames and potentially cause a chemical fire that would consume most of North Dallas."
No chemical explosion, so "North Dallas" is safe. The cross over and drivers were specifically and very carefully designed to work together. You aren't going to damage anything but you will change the sound characteristic of the speakers. This could be good or bad or simply indifferent. I agree with RuSs, at $40 a pop it's a no brainer to just get the originals fixed and get it back to stock sound.
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
That's why I ask these things. . .
Thanks, I'll contact Thiel and get 'em shipped off for a looksy. Although I am a cheap **** and have strongly considered only sending the one flaky one in, I'm gonna send them both. . .
. . . well, I'll probably send them both.
Thanks, guys.Stereo Rig: Hales Revelation 3, Musical Fidelity CD-Pre 24, Forte Model 3 amp, Lexicon RT-10 SACD, MMF-5 w/speedbox, Forte Model 2 Phono Pre, Cardas Crosslink, APC H15, URC MX-950, Lovan Stand
Bedroom: Samsung HPR-4252, Toshiba HD-A2, HK 3480, Signal Cable, AQ speaker cable, Totem Dreamcatchers, SVS PB10-NSD, URC MX-850 -
Jim Thiel can now rest assured knowing that when people hear speakers with his name on them, they produce the sound that he intended!
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What would Jim say about someone only sending in one tweeter for repair? He'd call me a dumbass, wouldn't he.
I can't have Jim thinking about me like that.Stereo Rig: Hales Revelation 3, Musical Fidelity CD-Pre 24, Forte Model 3 amp, Lexicon RT-10 SACD, MMF-5 w/speedbox, Forte Model 2 Phono Pre, Cardas Crosslink, APC H15, URC MX-950, Lovan Stand
Bedroom: Samsung HPR-4252, Toshiba HD-A2, HK 3480, Signal Cable, AQ speaker cable, Totem Dreamcatchers, SVS PB10-NSD, URC MX-850 -
Jim would probably say... if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
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Oh, I believe the tweeter is soldered, not the snap out wires that most have.
What is the best method for detaching? Do I just put my solder gun on it to melt it. . . or tug hard. . . or cut with wire snaps?
Thanks!Stereo Rig: Hales Revelation 3, Musical Fidelity CD-Pre 24, Forte Model 3 amp, Lexicon RT-10 SACD, MMF-5 w/speedbox, Forte Model 2 Phono Pre, Cardas Crosslink, APC H15, URC MX-950, Lovan Stand
Bedroom: Samsung HPR-4252, Toshiba HD-A2, HK 3480, Signal Cable, AQ speaker cable, Totem Dreamcatchers, SVS PB10-NSD, URC MX-850 -
Just cut the wire, with an ample lead to it. I'll re-solder them for you if you need help when you get them back.
Cheers,
RussCheck your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service. -
No, no, no. Unsolder them at the terminals. Thiel will send you some silver-solder to re-solder them when you get them back.
Jeesh. -
You're talking to me all wrong. If you talk to me like that again, I'm gonna stab you in the face. . . with a soldering iron! (I love Christopher Walken, best cameo actor of our generation, should've won an Oscar for Man on Fire. Damn the narrow minded academy)
Back onto topic, unsoldering brings the whole "burning down North Dallas" scenario back into play (explained earlier). Oh well, it aint that great anyway, no one will miss Addison.Stereo Rig: Hales Revelation 3, Musical Fidelity CD-Pre 24, Forte Model 3 amp, Lexicon RT-10 SACD, MMF-5 w/speedbox, Forte Model 2 Phono Pre, Cardas Crosslink, APC H15, URC MX-950, Lovan Stand
Bedroom: Samsung HPR-4252, Toshiba HD-A2, HK 3480, Signal Cable, AQ speaker cable, Totem Dreamcatchers, SVS PB10-NSD, URC MX-850