Balanced Power coming, setup help

Gaara

Decided to try something new, I have been using a Monster HTPS 7000SS line conditioner with AVS 2000SS Voltage Stabalizer for a few years, and found a local deal on a Balanced Power Technology BP-2 Signature (1800watts). I am going to have less outlets then before, 10 as opposed to 12 which makes things tricky. I need help figuring out how to hook all of this stuff up best, and how to not overload the unit.

I have 3 lines to work with, 1 15 amp of romex unsure on gauge, which was run before and has a few clocks and lights hooked up to it. A second 15 amp dedicated line which is 12 gauge romex, and a 20 amp dedicated line of 10 gauge Carol stranded wire.

Sources:
Jolida JD-100 20 watts
Pioneer Elite DV-47ai 14 watts
PS2 93 watts
XBOX 100 watts
Gamecube ~42 watts

Pre/Pro: B&K Ref 50 30 watts
TV: Sony XBR960 270 watts

Amps:
Cinenova Grande 1800 watts (2 x 300 + 2 x 600)
Sunfire Cinema Grand II 900 watts (4 x 225)
Buttkicker BKA 1100 watts

Sub: Earthquake Supernova 12 580 watts

EQ: Onix R-DES 30 watts
X-Over: Paradigm X-30 4 watts
Ideal Lumes Bias Lighting ???

I was thinking 15 amp hooked directly into the Cinenova.

Buttkicker hooked into the regular 15 amp along with the Bias Lighting.

20 amp have the sub in one outlet and the Balanced Power in the other. I could have the Sunfire in one outlet bank, have the B&K and Jolida share the second outlet, the Pioneer and PS2 in the 3rd, the Xbox and Gamecube in the 4th, and the XBR960 in the 5th.

I am not sure where to hookup the R-DES and X-over, could run an extension cord and hook them into the standard 15 amp with the bias lighting and Buttkicker, or I could hook them up to the same outlet on the BP-2 as the Sunfire or XBR960. The website says there is some isolation between outlets, but I have no personal experience with these units.

So is this a good way to power everything or should I rearrange things?

Is my isolation good, or would I be better off hooking up things differently?

Thanks.

Jared

P.S. Side note, can a 12 gauge run of romex being run 125-150 ft be 20amp, or should I leave it at 15?

jm1

I have been using a BPT BP-2.5 for several years. I have it connected to a 20A dedicated circuit and it powers all the electronics in the audio room. I have a showcase if you are interested in the equipment used.

You want to make sure you do not overdraw the transformer when you are using your system. I would also recommend not drawing more than 80% of the rated output. Overdrawing may make the system sound thin, make the transformer hot or reduce the transformer life span.

Does the Monster units have the capability to display current draw? If so, use this as a guide to connect components; you are looking for actual current draw based on your listening habits.

Ideally, you want to have the entire system using balanced power. I would suggest connecting just the audio components and display and forgo connecting the gaming devices (I am not a player nor fan of these devices). Based on your list, this should add up to nine components.

Each outlet on the unit is isolated from the next. Power hungry components (amps, subs) should be connected to the GFI or adjacent outlets. Analog components would be connected to the next bank progressing away from the GFI outlet, then digital.


You may also want to keep using the AVS 2000SS as a voltage stabilizer. Connect the 2000 to the wall, and plug the BP-2 into the 2000.

Gaara

jm1,

I did some testing using the 7000. Currently all my sources, pre, tv, and sub are hooked into the 7000 as well as a PS-Audio Trio which is a 150wpc stereo amp. The sunfire I just purchased and should be here next week, so my power consumption is a little lower then it actually would be. My back light was hooked to the AVS 2000, the Cinenova to the dedicated 15 amp line, and the Buttkicker amp to a 15amp line.

With that said I tried removing the AVS 2000 and hooking the bias light into the wall. My voltage before I removed it read 121.2-122 on the HTPS 7000, after it stayed between 122-123. I also have a 3500 hooked up to my pc, which is currently reading 119.5.

Idle I was using .8-.9 amps
During music I was using 1-1.1 amps
During War of the Worlds at normal levels I was using 1.0-2.0 amps
During War of the Worlds at demo levels I was using 2.2-2.8 amps
During War of the Worlds at demo levels peak consumption was 3.0 amps

I decided to try hooking up my Cinenova into the HTPS 7000 instead of running it with a dedicated line. Nothing else was changed.

Idle was 2.6 amps
During music was 2.7-2.9 amps
During War of the Worlds at normal levels was 3.2-3.5 amps
During War of the Worlds at demo levels was 4.0-5.2 amps
During War of the Worlds at demo levels peak consumption was 7.2 amps

The cinenova will draw more then my other amps because 2 of the channels are full range into a 8ohm load, and 2 are 60hz and below into a 4 ohm load. All my surrounds are crossed at 70hz. Not surprising there was a increase in power used buy not as much as I thought. What shocked me was how much additional power was used during idle, almost 2 amps.

I am going to have to test some things out but I think I will set it up like you said, but might change the amps around. I think I will hook up the Cinenova to the BP-2 and use the dedicated 15amp line for the sub and Sunfire. I could also try hooking up the Sunfire and the Cinenova the BP-2, but don't want to over do it. I would prefer to have the benefit go to my front two speakers over surrounds or sub.

I also could use the second outlet of my 20 amp line to run something like a PS Audio UPC-200 for my game systems. I am big into games and actually use them more then I do my dvd player, so I want them to have some kind of filtration as well.

That would leave me with the 1st outlet being the Cinenova (and maybe sunfire) 2nd outlet being my pre-amp, 3rd outlet being cd player and dvd player, 4th outlet being the x-over and eq, and 5th outlet being the TV. Bias lighting would be to the wall, sub on the dedicated 15 amp with the sunfire (maybe), games hooked up to another filter on the 20 amp (or 15) and buttkicker amp the the non dedicated 15 amp.

Does this sound better?

Thanks.

Jared

jm1

Hi Jared,

Yes, you are on the right track. When you have all the components in hand, determine the load and adjust accordingly.

Do not use balanced power for any lighting.

Let us know your impressions of having the BPT in your system.

John.

Gaara

John,

Thanks for all the help, I got the unit today and hooked it up a little while ago. The short end of it is I am selling my Monster units and keeping the BPT. I don't need the AVS as I used a volt meter and was measuring 122 volts, and 120 when music was playing.

As for differences, they are not huge, but noticeable. The big thing I noticed was a decrease in noise, both in the highs and lows. My speakers will hum and hiss a little when using the HT, noticeable with nothing playing from about 3ft away. The hiss is now noticeable at 1ft away only and the hum is gone. As for the highs, there is one track on the Silent Hill 3 Soundtrack which the highs always sounded a little acidy. This is now gone and the highs seem much more natural, probably from the blacker background.

I haven't really listened that much but those are my first impressions, hum gone, hiss is lower, and highs are a little smoother.

Jared

jm1

Gaara wrote: »

The short end of it is I am selling my Monster units and keeping the BPT.

I have been recommending this for years.


Glad you found another source of additional improvements for your system. If you are handy, I would suggest adding the Bybee Quantum Purifiers and the HFC-30 filter for better performance.

unc2701

P.S. Side note, can a 12 gauge run of romex being run 125-150 ft be 20amp, or should I leave it at 15?

Local code here says you can bump that up to 20amp. Just swap the breaker & get yourself a nice hospital grade 20a receptacle. I'm assuming that you don't have it running through any tight conduit over that length?

Gaara

John,

Thanks for the recomendations, I have the BP-2 Signature so it has the HFC-30 filter, but no bybees. I might do the bybees eventually, or if I see a great deal on a BP-3.5 Signature Plus i'll jump on it.

I can honestly say I wasn't expecting much of a difference, I just wanted the balanced power because it was physically smaller, plus I could sell the two monster units and end up ahead. I did not think it would get rid the hum I was hearing and cut back on the hiss so drastically.

Again thanks for all the help with figuring out where everything should go, I really appreciate it.

unc2701,

Thanks for the info on the line, I am not sure if I will need the 20 amps anymore as I am drawing much less current then I anticipated. Part of the run is being run through conduit, roughly half, and the other half is being run through an attic.

Jared

unc2701

If you're not popping it, I wouldn't worry about upping the breaker. You might swap it out & see it you get a big difference, but if you're nowhere near capacity, it might not be worth it.

As for the conduit, for high amperage /low gauge runs, I know running it through conduit requires a lower gauge/ bigger wire since the conduit traps heat around the wire (ran into that w/ a 60a run to a subpanel).

What I don't know is whether that applies to 20amp/ 12 gauge wire... and the code on that probably varies. Unless you're using your amp as an arc welder, it probably doesn't matter, but it never hurt to error on the side of caution.