Upgrading Polk 10s

Sumbrada77

I want to redo, upgrade my original Monitor 10s. Crossovers, possible tweeters. Any help?

1. Suggestions on Caps? I have heard good things for Solens and Sonicaps.
what's your opinions?
2. What I read, a 0.1uF ish bypass Cap with the main caps really help detail and smoothness. Opinions? Suggested values?
3. Should the Mylar 12uF be switched with Solens type along with the Electrolytics? If not, suggestions for the Mylar?
4. Everyone suggests Mills resistors, how about the inductors/coils?
5. In the schematics available here there are 2 mods. One for the SL2500 tweeters. Values are different. Any help on Why? I have Peerless now but maybe upgrading to the RDO silks later.

schwarcw

Hi! Welcome to Club Polk! If you have Peerless tweeters, don't worry about getting the silks. Your Peerless are just fine. If you want to upgrade the components on the crossover, use either Sonicaps or Solens. The Sonicaps cost more, but I think they sound better. If you use Sonicaps you won't need a bypass cap, it will sound fine without it. If you want to use a bypass, go ahead and use a 0.1 uF Gen II Sonicap. Get yourself some new binding posts. Vampire binding posts will cost you about $25 for a stereo pair. Get the short or the long ones. Do you have stands for your Monitor 10's? If so, put some spikes on them to tighten up the bass.

Good luck and welcome to the Club Polk Forums!

schwarcw

I looked at the Monitor 10 schematic. Don't touch the inductors, they should be okay. I would get a Solen cap for the 34 uF and Sonicaps for the 12 uF caps. There are no bypass caps in the original schematic. I wouldn't add one. If you play your music at reasonable volume levels with a good amp, you can remove the Polysitches and use a jumper in it's place. A piece of 14 gauge copper wire will do. Mill resistors are very good and inexpensive.

Good luck!

Carl

Sumbrada77

Thanks for the information. I do have the Polk stands. You suggest
spikes, I will have to try it as they do stand on carpet. You suggest
Solens for all or the 34uF and Sonicap for the 12uF. No problem
about leaving the coils alone. That was I was figuring also. Yea new binding posts are in the plans, the originals are poor. I have the early version with a fused tweeter so I do not need to jumper (I don't think?). After pulling the drivers to redo the crossovers what do you suggest to seal the cabinets
again. Silicone sealant?? thanks again!

Ricardo

Drivers and binding posts cup should have a seal; use that same one.