What is the "glue" used by Polk to seal holes in binding posts on inductors, etc.?

RichCanDo
RichCanDo Posts: 177
edited March 2007 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
Does anyone know correct name of the material or "glue" used to seal the holes in binding posts? I assume it is the same stuff used on the inductors on the crossover. I should know as used this before but cannot remember the correct name! I want to obtain some to upgrade my crossovers and binding posts. Thanks in advance for an answer.
Mains; SDA 1.2TL Silk Domes, upgraded xover, biamped w/DBX BX1 200wpc
Pre-amp: DBX CX1
Center: CS1000p Rear Surr.; f/x1000
Parasound HCA-1205A amp; Center & rear
Sub: SVS PB12-Ultra
DVD: Denon 3910
Tuner, FM: Onkyo Integra T-9090II
Cassette: Onkyo Integra TA-2090
VCRs: JVC HD4000U digital, HRS8000U SVHS
Signal Processing: DBX; 10/20 EQ, SNR-1, 120X-DS, 3BX-DS, DAV-600G Router, Onkyo EQ-35
Conditioning: Monster AVS2000, HTS5100MKII
Post edited by RichCanDo on

Comments

  • hoosier21
    hoosier21 Posts: 4,413
    edited March 2007
    hot glue from a hot glue gun
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    Where is the remote? Where is the $%#$% remote!

    "I've always been mad, I know I've been mad, like the most of us have...very hard to explain why you're mad, even if you're not mad..."
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited March 2007
    What he said
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited March 2007
    Its not hot anymore....I hope

    So its just glue, that came from a glue gun that made it hot, but cools off.
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
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    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
  • RichCanDo
    RichCanDo Posts: 177
    edited March 2007
    It is not hot glue from a Hot Glue Gun. It is not hot when applied. It is used on circuit boards and there is a specific name for it. It is easier to remove than hot glue.
    Mains; SDA 1.2TL Silk Domes, upgraded xover, biamped w/DBX BX1 200wpc
    Pre-amp: DBX CX1
    Center: CS1000p Rear Surr.; f/x1000
    Parasound HCA-1205A amp; Center & rear
    Sub: SVS PB12-Ultra
    DVD: Denon 3910
    Tuner, FM: Onkyo Integra T-9090II
    Cassette: Onkyo Integra TA-2090
    VCRs: JVC HD4000U digital, HRS8000U SVHS
    Signal Processing: DBX; 10/20 EQ, SNR-1, 120X-DS, 3BX-DS, DAV-600G Router, Onkyo EQ-35
    Conditioning: Monster AVS2000, HTS5100MKII
  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited March 2007
    RichCanDo wrote:
    It is easier to remove than hot glue.


    What is an easy way to remove it? My iron gets messy trying to melt it enough to remove the parts.
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
  • RichCanDo
    RichCanDo Posts: 177
    edited March 2007
    The glue commonly used by manufacturers can be peeled off, or scraped off. No heat required. It is similiar to the coatings used on machine tools to protect sharp edges from damage when packaged, except this remains soft and pliable. The "glue" used for electronics gets harder, though remains soft enough that you can push your fingernail into it.
    Mains; SDA 1.2TL Silk Domes, upgraded xover, biamped w/DBX BX1 200wpc
    Pre-amp: DBX CX1
    Center: CS1000p Rear Surr.; f/x1000
    Parasound HCA-1205A amp; Center & rear
    Sub: SVS PB12-Ultra
    DVD: Denon 3910
    Tuner, FM: Onkyo Integra T-9090II
    Cassette: Onkyo Integra TA-2090
    VCRs: JVC HD4000U digital, HRS8000U SVHS
    Signal Processing: DBX; 10/20 EQ, SNR-1, 120X-DS, 3BX-DS, DAV-600G Router, Onkyo EQ-35
    Conditioning: Monster AVS2000, HTS5100MKII
  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited March 2007
    Well the glue that surrounds my caps and resistors on my xover is not that plyable to where it can be peeled off. The only way I have found to remove it enought to take the parts off is to melt it.
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
  • RichCanDo
    RichCanDo Posts: 177
    edited March 2007
    the glue that surrounds my caps and resistors on my xover is not that plyable to where it can be peeled off

    Is the glue on your crossover the same as the "glue" used to cover any possible air leaks on the Binding Post Plate? A different glue is used to hold parts such as resistors to the PCB. The material I want a name for, I think, is not really considered glue. I do not remember what it is called as last used it over 25 years ago.

    In my 1.2TL's the large glob of "glue" placed on the inductor coils to hold windings in place, appears to be the same as used to seal air leaks on the binding posts plates.
    Mains; SDA 1.2TL Silk Domes, upgraded xover, biamped w/DBX BX1 200wpc
    Pre-amp: DBX CX1
    Center: CS1000p Rear Surr.; f/x1000
    Parasound HCA-1205A amp; Center & rear
    Sub: SVS PB12-Ultra
    DVD: Denon 3910
    Tuner, FM: Onkyo Integra T-9090II
    Cassette: Onkyo Integra TA-2090
    VCRs: JVC HD4000U digital, HRS8000U SVHS
    Signal Processing: DBX; 10/20 EQ, SNR-1, 120X-DS, 3BX-DS, DAV-600G Router, Onkyo EQ-35
    Conditioning: Monster AVS2000, HTS5100MKII
  • RichCanDo
    RichCanDo Posts: 177
    edited March 2007
    I removed the original binding posts and installed new ones in one speaker cabinet yesterday. I simply peeled the "glue" off the binding posts and the plate. As almost the entire plate was covered with this glue, I had to make a few cuts with a razor blade to make smaller pieces, then peeled it off. (I left it on the IC jack) It comes completely off metal parts, like nuts and bolts, but I had to scrape some off left behind on the plastic plate itself. The new binding posts required a .397" hole in the plate and have a washer on each side of the plate. Silicone under both washers prevents air leakage. The posts have a hole drilled all the way through them. (Post is hollow, banana plug can go in one end, crossover wire in the other end, fastened with a set screw.) I put silicone in the center of this hollow portion for about 1/2". Now the binding posts are airtight without having to cover them with any sort of glue to seal air leaks.

    I still want to know what the material is the factory uses, if anyone knows.
    The back of the Interconnect Cable Socket needs some. Factory missed covering the holes where the pin and blade exit this jack. Air leaks from the holes where pin and blade go through the plastic socket.
    Mains; SDA 1.2TL Silk Domes, upgraded xover, biamped w/DBX BX1 200wpc
    Pre-amp: DBX CX1
    Center: CS1000p Rear Surr.; f/x1000
    Parasound HCA-1205A amp; Center & rear
    Sub: SVS PB12-Ultra
    DVD: Denon 3910
    Tuner, FM: Onkyo Integra T-9090II
    Cassette: Onkyo Integra TA-2090
    VCRs: JVC HD4000U digital, HRS8000U SVHS
    Signal Processing: DBX; 10/20 EQ, SNR-1, 120X-DS, 3BX-DS, DAV-600G Router, Onkyo EQ-35
    Conditioning: Monster AVS2000, HTS5100MKII
  • ViperZ
    ViperZ Posts: 2,046
    edited March 2007
    As a bunch of people already said, it's most probably hot glue. On PCBs, manufacturers usually use epoxy (like 5-minute epoxy stuff) to attach components, or solithane...
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    Oppo BDP-93 Blu-Ray player
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    Harmony 1100 RF remote with RF extender
    Sony XBR-X950G 55" 4K HDR Smart TV + PS3 in the living room
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited March 2007
    Rich - Are you thinking of DAP?
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • RichCanDo
    RichCanDo Posts: 177
    edited March 2007
    No, not DAP. This stuff is made specifically for circuit boards.
    I heated a piece that was removed from the binding plate. It appears the stuff Polk uses is some type of a hot melt glue. What I was seeking a name for is similiar, but is applied cold, no heat required.
    Mains; SDA 1.2TL Silk Domes, upgraded xover, biamped w/DBX BX1 200wpc
    Pre-amp: DBX CX1
    Center: CS1000p Rear Surr.; f/x1000
    Parasound HCA-1205A amp; Center & rear
    Sub: SVS PB12-Ultra
    DVD: Denon 3910
    Tuner, FM: Onkyo Integra T-9090II
    Cassette: Onkyo Integra TA-2090
    VCRs: JVC HD4000U digital, HRS8000U SVHS
    Signal Processing: DBX; 10/20 EQ, SNR-1, 120X-DS, 3BX-DS, DAV-600G Router, Onkyo EQ-35
    Conditioning: Monster AVS2000, HTS5100MKII
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,645
    edited March 2007
    The original glue used by Polk is somewhat different than the hot glue stuff from the craft store. However, I've found it's much easier to remove hot glue than the stuff Polk used.
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