how do i test my 1.2tl's to see if they are working right?
marcusmy2k
Posts: 13
hello, can anyone tell me how to test a set of 1.2tl's to see if they are operating correctly? i was now able to hook up my carver silver 9t's to them and they do sound alot better than before i used the interconnect cable. when i start putting 400-500 watts of power to them a few drivers in one speaker have alot of movement and some in the other speaker have alot of movement also but not the same drivers? and when i start turning them up the high end fades out a bit? there is very little if no bass output at all, but with my nht sub running it takes that up, but i read somewhere that these speakers could put out 110db at 29 hz from the passive radiator? i do not know how to proceed? i know it is not my amps because i have a set of martin logan monolith III's and they bring you to a new world when driven hard, and i know these polks should do the same? thank you in advance for all the replies.......
Post edited by marcusmy2k on
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Ask Darqueknight for his SDA Compendium. All your question are answered there. There are a lot of threads here that will help you out. Go to the "Vintage Speaker" sections and click the "Search" and ask your questions there is a wealth of information there. I'll try to find the thread that will help you.
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OK if you have some drivers not doing what you said then yes your right to come here ,I have 1.2s and belive me theres plenty of bass. and I LIKE bass
Am I right to assume your running mono amps ? I do not know these models what so ever:cool: " He who dies with the most equipment wins Right ? "
Denon 3300 Adcom 535 BBe w/sub out 1 pr 4.6s 2 pr of 4 jrs Recent additions Samsung Lns-4095D LCD, Samsung hd-960 DVD, Monster HT-5000 Power center,HPSA-1000 18" sealed DiY home sub.:D
Black Laquer 1.2tl's w/ upgraded x-overs and Tweets BI-Amped with 2 Carver tfm-35's Knukonceptz 10ga cables -
marcusmy2k wrote:hello, can anyone tell me how to test a set of 1.2tl's to see if they are operating correctly? i was now able to hook up my carver silver 9t's to them and they do sound alot better than before i used the interconnect cable. when i start putting 400-500 watts of power to them a few drivers in one speaker have alot of movement and some in the other speaker have alot of movement also but not the same drivers? and when i start turning them up the high end fades out a bit? there is very little if no bass output at all, but with my nht sub running it takes that up, but i read somewhere that these speakers could put out 110db at 29 hz from the passive radiator? i do not know how to proceed? i know it is not my amps because i have a set of martin logan monolith III's and they bring you to a new world when driven hard, and i know these polks should do the same? thank you in advance for all the replies.......
The Carver Silver 7ts can be strapped to make them common ground. I would call Carver and ask if the 9ts can be strapped. Typically you would strap the right and left negative speaker terminals together. If Carver says you can do this then you would have no need for the AI-1 cable. You might also want to ask them if you can strap the chasis together incase you get a ground loop hum from the speaker terminal strap. . . DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS WITHOUT CHECKING WITH THE MANUFACTURER FIRST.
See this post it has a PDF from Polk describing strapping Adcoms and Carvers but be careful of the model numbers. -
Running mono amps can be a little sticky so do what he says , no reason to fry the amps or the speakers by guessing:cool: " He who dies with the most equipment wins Right ? "
Denon 3300 Adcom 535 BBe w/sub out 1 pr 4.6s 2 pr of 4 jrs Recent additions Samsung Lns-4095D LCD, Samsung hd-960 DVD, Monster HT-5000 Power center,HPSA-1000 18" sealed DiY home sub.:D
Black Laquer 1.2tl's w/ upgraded x-overs and Tweets BI-Amped with 2 Carver tfm-35's Knukonceptz 10ga cables -
yes i talked with rita today and she assured me that i could strap these monoblocks and she was right. i ran a wire ground to ground and turned them on, everything was ok then i plugged in the cable and no end of the world so i turned them up and no hum either.... i removed about 4 drivers from these and i am not sure that i looked at all the #'s but on the paper tags on the backs they are all stamped with the same date and srs 1.2 accross the back. oh i just looked at the 2 i removed. the one on the right side is a 6503 and the lower left one is a 6511 the 6511 is the one that moves freely but when hooked up produces no sound. so i guess now i am on the hunt for 6511's and 6503's damn... i figured that they should have good bass my RTA-15TL's have very nice bass with a smaller but 2 passives. even with some of the drivers pumping away the 15" just barely vibrates a little. i will hunt further thanks!!
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marcusmy2k wrote:yes i talked with rita today and she assured me that i could strap these monoblocks and she was right. i ran a wire ground to ground and turned them on, everything was ok then i plugged in the cable and no end of the world so i turned them up and no hum either.... i removed about 4 drivers from these and i am not sure that i looked at all the #'s but on the paper tags on the backs they are all stamped with the same date and srs 1.2 accross the back. oh i just looked at the 2 i removed. the one on the right side is a 6503 and the lower left one is a 6511 the 6511 is the one that moves freely but when hooked up produces no sound. so i guess now i am on the hunt for 6511's and 6503's damn... i figured that they should have good bass my RTA-15TL's have very nice bass with a smaller but 2 passives. even with some of the drivers pumping away the 15" just barely vibrates a little. i will hunt further thanks!!
Great. You may want to post a new thread in the Vintage Speaker category and make clear that you spoke to Carver and they told you it was okay to strap the 9ts together to make common ground for SDAs. This will help future people who have or are plannin to purchase Carver 9Ts. -
If you do not have the amount of bass you should, possibly the cabinets are not airtight as they should be. If the cabinets cannot build up the proper amount of pressure, the sub bass radiator will not work. To test, simply push in on the sub bass radiator with your hand and see if it moves the drivers out and in.Mains; SDA 1.2TL Silk Domes, upgraded xover, biamped w/DBX BX1 200wpc
Pre-amp: DBX CX1
Center: CS1000p Rear Surr.; f/x1000
Parasound HCA-1205A amp; Center & rear
Sub: SVS PB12-Ultra
DVD: Denon 3910
Tuner, FM: Onkyo Integra T-9090II
Cassette: Onkyo Integra TA-2090
VCRs: JVC HD4000U digital, HRS8000U SVHS
Signal Processing: DBX; 10/20 EQ, SNR-1, 120X-DS, 3BX-DS, DAV-600G Router, Onkyo EQ-35
Conditioning: Monster AVS2000, HTS5100MKII -
Sounds to me like a placement issue...The SDA's should be 4"-8" from the back wall,flush,not toed in.
The closer they are to the wall,the better bass response you will get...but your highs and mids will be less pronounced.
A little farther from the wall,the bass will be less and the upper end will be more.
In my set-up,7" from the back wall is a perfect blend for me. -
RichCanDo wrote:If you do not have the amount of bass you should, possibly the cabinets are not airtight as they should be. If the cabinets cannot build up the proper amount of pressure, the sub bass radiator will not work. To test, simply push in on the sub bass radiator with your hand and see if it moves the drivers out and in.
Just an addendum to this; push the bass radiator in, the midbass drivers should lurch forward and slowly (about 3 seconds) move back to their idle positions. If this is occurring chances are your cabinet sealing is not suspect.
