Does component spacing matter?

Gaara
Gaara Posts: 2,415
edited March 2007 in Electronics
Does component spacing matter? The reason I ask is I am building a new stand and combining my 2 channel and HT setup. I plan on building a 5 shelf flexy, bottom would be power, 2nd games + secondary amp, 3rd is sources and amp, 4th is pre-amps and main amp, and 5th is TV.

I could build one that is 54 in wide and have one in between each component or build one around 58 in with 2-3in between components. Problem with the 58in one is that I have a dresser to the left, so the TV couldn't be centered, it would have ~6in on th left and ~12in on the right.

Think I should go with a larger stand and space the components out more, but always have the TV of center? Just not sure if the extra couple inches between components matters. Thanks.

I attached a 56in version.

Jared
Post edited by Gaara on

Comments

  • sucks2beme
    sucks2beme Posts: 5,606
    edited March 2007
    Heat rises. Spacing vertically is important.
    "The legitimate powers of government extend to such acts only as are injurious to others. But it does me no injury for my neighbour to say there are twenty gods, or no god. It neither picks my pocket nor breaks my leg." --Thomas Jefferson
  • Serendipity
    Serendipity Posts: 6,975
    edited March 2007
    +1 for more vertical spacing.
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  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 6,887
    edited March 2007
    Preamps, CD players, DVD players, and passive components don't usually need much space, but for amps, you better believe they need space. 4 inches minimum above, and open in the rear if you can do it. If they have external heatsinks, make sure you keep at least a few inches horizontally too. Really hot running amps (ones that are biased more to Class A) will need 8 inches or more above.

    Don't place heat sensitive equipment (CD/DVD) above an amp if you can help it. If you already have the amps, you should have a pretty good idea how hot they run. If not, do some searching around the various forums to see what people have to say about them.
    For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore...
  • Gaara
    Gaara Posts: 2,415
    edited March 2007
    On the heat issue, none of my amps run hot except for the BKA. After a 2 hour movie the Earthquake is usually warm all over, the SA-Amp is warm but has rear firing fans, and the Rotel is warm on one side and cool on the other. I have had the rotel in a flexy with open sides front and back with only one inch over it, and it has never gotten past warm nor has the shelf above it gotten past slightly warm. I picked out this amp specifically because it runs cool.

    So no other concerns besides the amps heat? The right side is all amps with the exception of the EQ on the bottom right, but that can just as easily be out of the rack. I wasn't sure if EMI/RF was an issue with digital components being close to each other. Thanks.

    Jared
  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited March 2007
    My Oppo DVD player sits right on top of my Motorola cable box. The cable box gets pretty warm, I think thats whats causing my Oppo to freeze when playback.

    I'll move it and see. But this would be my first case in ventalation problems.
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  • bikezappa
    bikezappa Posts: 2,463
    edited March 2007
    What ever you do put the stand on strong coasters to allow movement of the heavey stand to get access to the wires.
  • Gaara
    Gaara Posts: 2,415
    edited March 2007
    Did some adjusting to try and give more breathing room for components. Removed the EQ and the BKA as it is the only amp that gets really hot. Look better? Any suggestions?

    bikezappa,

    Good idea with the coasters, i'll have to check that out.

    jakelm,

    Those cable boxes get hot, my cousin had the same issue with his Oppo 971 getting to hot.
  • sucks2beme
    sucks2beme Posts: 5,606
    edited March 2007
    Better!

    I used 5/8" threaded rod and put 1/2" pvc over it and painted it.
    Looks better, and less chance of nicking stuff than with naked threaded rod on the flexirack. By cutting the pvc with a miter box with a clamp stop,
    the pvc sections are the same length. Good for making the shelves level. The down side is you have to pull everything apart to adjust shelf height.
    If I had to do it again, I would rough it in for spacing, then assemble it.
    "The legitimate powers of government extend to such acts only as are injurious to others. But it does me no injury for my neighbour to say there are twenty gods, or no god. It neither picks my pocket nor breaks my leg." --Thomas Jefferson
  • Gaara
    Gaara Posts: 2,415
    edited March 2007
    Did some reworking last night...during a 3hr AIS course. I had three goals with my new rack, consolidate so things would take less space, make everything flow better and make it easier for cable management, have ample room for components now and in the future.

    I have attached three different configurations, both with the current system and my planned upgrades in the next 6 months. I am leaning towards version 3 as everything that generates heat has ample space, and for cable management reasons. All power would go straight down, and with my preamps in the middle all interconnects would go left to right from source to pre, and then left to right from pre to amp.

    If anyone has any qualms on why one rack wouldn't work speak up. I plan on starting this project in a week or two.

    sucks2beme,

    I used 5/8in threaded rod for my current audio rack and it works great. I plan on using 3/4in for the outside of the rack, and maybe 3/8 for the inside. The 5/8in worked fine with the current rack, which holds roughly 200lbs worth of equipment, but the new rack will be over 2x that. I think 3/4in should be enough. As for pvc I think it does look nicer but I may be adjusting things in the future. For this reason I will be using naked rods, as one of my main goals is future adjustibility. Good idea about the miter box though, I may use this once I finally stop upgrading.

    Jared

    P.S. Zoom in or the picture is missing some lines.