C500.1 vs C300.2 for 12" sub

black magic

hey guys, quick question.

I'm wondering whether i should use the c300.2 to power the momo 12" svc. Or if I should get the same sub but dvc and use the c500.1 for power. I hear that the c500.1 would be more efficient but I thought I'd ask anyways. I'll be running 2 12" subs with my setup. Currently one of them is dvc (and will be powered by the c500.1 at 2 ohms for 500watts) and the other one is a svc (i'm trying to sell it). with the svc, the c500.1 will only give me 350 watts (at a 4 ohm load) whereas the c300.2 will give me 550 (bridged). So should I get another dvc and use the c500.1 to power it (so both subs will have the same power) or should I just get a c300.2 and power my svc with it? Money aside, which is the better idea?

one more question actually, hopefully I'll get around to installing the momo 6 1/2" (mmc6500) components this week. The crossover has two inputs, single and dual. Does that mean I can use 2 amps for it (one for the tweeters and one for the woofer)? The manual doesn't really specify. I'll be using the c400.4 to power the these components and the mmc525 as well. Any help would be appreciated.

I've worked with car audio before, but I've never done a complete install just on my own. Although some of my questions might seem stupid, I'd rather ask instead of regretting it later. So please bear with me.

MacLeod

Use the 300.2 Itll be 450x1 at 4 ohms bridged.

Yes you can bi-amp the MMC6500's. Thats the best way to do it.

bknauss

MacLeod wrote:

Use the 300.2 Itll be 450x1 at 4 ohms bridged.

Yes you can bi-amp the MMC6500's. Thats the best way to do it.

I would highly recommend not using the C300 for this application. C500 is the way to go for all sub installs.

MacLeod

Nothing against the 500.1 but the 300.2 would give him 100 more watts at 4 ohms.

However, there is one little problem with trying to actually FIND a 300.2. Theyve been scarce in stores for at least 6 months now.

exalted512

bknauss wrote:

I would highly recommend not using the C300 for this application. C500 is the way to go for all sub installs.

Why would you pair an amp thats meant to do its power at 2 ohms with a sub that has a 4 ohm resistance? Especially when said amp will not give the sub its rated power at 4...

In all honesty, I dont know why Polk even makes a 500.1. It doesnt match power with ANY of their subs or combination of subs.

+1 on the 300.2
-Cody

Toxis

^agreed on the 500.1

black magic

Thanks guys... and good call Mac, can't find that god forsaken 300.2 anywhere! ...actually, I'd say thats true with all of polk's amps.

if i were to bi-amp the 6500's, how much power should i give the tweeters?

Also, I've run into a bit of a dilemma (again). When I bought my cap (Absolute 1.8 farad), I wasn't aware that you arn't supposed to have any fuses between the cap and the amp. My problem is that I'm gonna have 3 amps and I wanted to have my cap before the distribution block (which is fused). Would anything go wrong if I were to still use 1 cap for 3 amps with a fused block? Or should I just use a distribution block without any fuses? I really don't want to buy another 2 caps. ugh! I guess thats what happens when you don't do extensive research.

Tim B.

Why would you need to cap all your amps. I thought it was mainly for you sub amps.

exalted512

Where did you hear you werent supposed to put a fuse after your cap?

Dont worry about it at all, you can fuse after your cap without any problems
-Cody

black magic

I read it on an online tutorial. Actually, it was on Rockford Fosgate's website. I didn't realize it was RF until now.

"If the capacitor is used in a multi-amp system, a non-fused power distribution block may be used as a junction point for the capacitor to "tap into" the power source. Be sure that there are no fuses located between the capacitor and the amplifier. Remember - the secret to a successful capacitor installation is to install the capacitor as close to the amplifier(s) as possible.
"

Thanks, Cody. I didn't think it would hurt, but I just wanted to make sure. It will probably loose some power, but I don't think (or at least hope) it won't be completely useless.

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/scripts/rightnow.cfg/php.exe/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=50

exalted512

Thats one of the most retarded things I've ever heard. God forbid the AMP has a fuse on it...

I cant believe what some companies come up with...
-Cody

Tim B.

This artical says to use a fused distrobution block if i read it right. But I also found others that say don't place a fuse between the amp and capacitor. I think there is some conflicting info. But since there are more saying not to do so makes me thinke that Black Magic might be correct with the RF page.

http://www.electronixwarehouse.com/education/accessories/CapacitorInstallation.htm

exalted512

Again, what about the amps that have on board fuses.

I ran my amps fused after the capacitor for years and never had any problems. If I ever use a cap again, which i doubt, i will fuse it between the two again. What happens if the cap shorts?
-Cody

Tim B.

I understand what you are saying. I don't see or understand what the problem would be either. I was just looking into it since it came up and only found one page that said to put a fused distro block in. I just posted what I found.

exalted512

After thinking about this some more, a fuse will slow down the current flow a little. I'm not so sure if it would make a difference, but I guess you never know.

As far as if one shorted out, the more I thought about it, caps discharge so quickly, itd probably never even blow the fuse.

The main reason I had mine like that was because I wanted to be able to pull a fuse and not have any power going to my amp. Not take out a fuse and have to discharge the cap before messing with anything. Everyone on here knows that my setups never stay the same for long...lol.
-Cody

Tim B.

But maybe you can answer my question. Why would you need to put a capacitor on your amp that goes to your mids, highs and rear fill. I did not think that they would pull that much of a draw of the battery like a sub would.

exalted512

I would rather you a capacitor on my mids and highs than my subs. No, they dont draw as much power, especially so quickly, but it evens out any fluctuations in the voltage which can improve SQ. Even then, not by much and you must already have a pretty high fidelity system to notice an improvement. Actually, the first person that I know of to use caps was Richard Clark in his SQ vehicle, probably before I was born, and he used it for that exact reason.

Now, they are used for primarily the wrong reasons.
-Cody

Tim B.

Ok I think I understand know. I have an alumapro 15 fared Capacitor. So when I do my install I should have that set up to feed both the amps in my setup correct.

exalted512

I honestly wouldnt install it at all. Caps are nothing more than band aids and serve only to cover up underlying problems.
-Cody

Toxis

Too many people think that Caps are the cure to having a lack of power. Think of a cap as a bucket of water. If you are pulling out more water than you can put in, you'll run out eventually. If you add a second bucket (a cap vs. the original battery), it will just take a little longer to go on empty but you'll still have the problem of not having enough water coming in. Alternator > cap.

Tim B.

It is just that I have it and it is a cool looking piece. I plan on purchasing an optima yellow cap or the Kinetik HC1400.

Has anyone had any experience with Kinetik. I have heard some good things about their power cells.

exalted512

i have one of their 1800s and 3 of their 2400s. Needless to say, I like em
-Cody

MacLeod

Get the Kinetic. Much much MUCH more power.

For example - the Optima Yellow Top for my Honda has 625 amps. The Kinetic has 1400.

Of course they run $300+ as opposed to the Optimas $180 price tag.

exalted512

http://cgi.ebay.com/hc1400-KINETIK-BATTERY-POWER-CELL-KHC1400-HC-1400-NEW_W0QQitemZ320083589831QQcategoryZ32825QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item320083589831
They dont run that much.
-Cody

Toxis

never heard of them... how do they compare to Stinger or SVR batteries?

exalted512

IMO, these are the best batteries you can use for car audio.
-Cody

bknauss

MacLeod wrote:

Nothing against the 500.1 but the 300.2 would give him 100 more watts at 4 ohms.

However, there is one little problem with trying to actually FIND a 300.2. Theyve been scarce in stores for at least 6 months now.

Do a little google-ing... you'll find the answer to both my suggestion and the reason why you can't find a C300. That being said, I've got a C300 in my car that's been running for over 2 years perfectly, but its driving coaxes and not bridged into a sub.

exalted512

why not just tell us?
-Cody

1996blackmax

Would be nice....

black magic

I did some google-ing and i can't find the answer

myork

Did anyone find out the answer? I know that 4-6 months ago the 300.2 was going for only $199 on Sounddomain.com and other online sites - even cheaper on Ebay - so is it possible Polk is phasing out that amp?

I had been contemplating getting three of them instead of the 400.4 and 500.1 - but I was late in making up my mind and now they seem to have gone the way of the Dodo.

If you check out other places the 400.4 and 500.1 are listed, but no 300.2