Subwoofer ext-amp
I'm sure this is one of those "try it yourself and see" questions, but I'm interested in others experiences as well.
I have a Velodyne CHT-12, which is a bottom of the line'ish 12" velodyne sub. It fills my new home theater quite well and really seems to keep up quite well when listening to music. But I'm wondering.... I have an ADCOM GFA-555 that, bridged is 600 watts. Right now it is hooked to my mains and the wiring is a bit of a pain the way I have things set up, so I'm not interested in unhooking it unless I have good reason....
If I were to use a GFA-555 as a sub amp for my Velo rather than the internal sub amp, would I see improvement in accuracy and output? Or.... Is sub output and accuracy more a function of driver and enclosure design? Would I just have more output with a bunch of port noise?
I don't seem to ever be able to stop trying to tweek things. What have you guys done to me?
(Got some serious listening coming up this afternoon that won't help either...more to come on that I'm sure)
I have a Velodyne CHT-12, which is a bottom of the line'ish 12" velodyne sub. It fills my new home theater quite well and really seems to keep up quite well when listening to music. But I'm wondering.... I have an ADCOM GFA-555 that, bridged is 600 watts. Right now it is hooked to my mains and the wiring is a bit of a pain the way I have things set up, so I'm not interested in unhooking it unless I have good reason....
If I were to use a GFA-555 as a sub amp for my Velo rather than the internal sub amp, would I see improvement in accuracy and output? Or.... Is sub output and accuracy more a function of driver and enclosure design? Would I just have more output with a bunch of port noise?
I don't seem to ever be able to stop trying to tweek things. What have you guys done to me?
(Got some serious listening coming up this afternoon that won't help either...more to come on that I'm sure)
HT
RTi70 mains
CSi30 center
RTi28 Rears
Velodyne CHT-12
H/K AVR-247
ADCOM GFA-7000
Samsung PN58B860
Playstation 3
2-Channel
Polk Audio LSi15's
Rotel RCD-1072
Nakamichi CA-5 Pre
ADCOM GFA-555
Signal Cable Analog II IC's
Signal Ultra Bi-Wire Speaker Cables
RTi70 mains
CSi30 center
RTi28 Rears
Velodyne CHT-12
H/K AVR-247
ADCOM GFA-7000
Samsung PN58B860
Playstation 3
2-Channel
Polk Audio LSi15's
Rotel RCD-1072
Nakamichi CA-5 Pre
ADCOM GFA-555
Signal Cable Analog II IC's
Signal Ultra Bi-Wire Speaker Cables
Post edited by Lowell_M on
Comments
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Yes the biggest factor in determining sound quality in a sub is the driver/enclosure combo.Of course this is assuming the built in amp is of sufficient power to properly drive the woofer.Although having some exta power available is always a good thing. The only problem might be you will not be able to use any EQ,crossover or phase adjustments on the built in amp.Testing
Testing
Testing -
No EQ in the sub. I've got the phase straight at 0. ,but your crossover comment brings up a question.. I've got a switch to bypass the internal crossover (which was set at 120hz). I switched it to direct last night since my AVR should be taking care of crossing over at 80hz, and bass response improved. Theoretically this should have made no difference, right? (If the receiver is crossing over to the LFE output at 80hz and the sub crossover is set at 120hz....the crossover isn't doing anything)
Anyway, you may have said enough to prevent me from going through the trouble of disconnecting my ADCOM, reconnecting speaker wire to the receiver, and connecting the adcom to the sub... then put it back. I am actually quite happy with the sub, but haven't heard anything else either. (no SVS's or anything) May be one of those things that I should leave well enough alone and stay away from any greater subs that would enflame my upgradits.HT
RTi70 mains
CSi30 center
RTi28 Rears
Velodyne CHT-12
H/K AVR-247
ADCOM GFA-7000
Samsung PN58B860
Playstation 3
2-Channel
Polk Audio LSi15's
Rotel RCD-1072
Nakamichi CA-5 Pre
ADCOM GFA-555
Signal Cable Analog II IC's
Signal Ultra Bi-Wire Speaker Cables