Help Configuring New System

Tim B.

Hello,

I have been surfing your forum for a while know. You guys seem to be pretty knowledgeable. I have been out of the car audio scene since 1994 so need some help. I guess I am back to being a newbie.

I have a 95 300ZX that i will be finishing with the exterior modifications soon. I am now looking at purchasing the audio equipment. I have decided to go with the Polk Audio SR series components. I have heard them side by side to the Focals using the same head unit and amps. I was very impressed with the SRs to say the least.

I plan on running 1ea SR124 and 1ea SR6500 components or go 3 way active with SR 6.5 and SR 5.25 and SR tweeters

Here is my dilemma.
1. I have not decided on weather to go active or passive.

2. I have the original Precision Power Art Series Amps I have 2ea A600s (150x2 or 600x1 mono), 1ea A404 (50x4 or 200x2) and 1ea A200 (50x2). Should I use these amps or go to the smaller sized Alpine Amps PDX-1.1000 (1000W x 1 mono), PDX-4.150 (150W x 4), and PDX-2.150 (150W x 2) in order to save space.

3. If I went active would the PXA-H701 be the best choice to go with.

4. I have not narrowed down my head unit yet but if I went active I might consider the IVA-D310 from alpine.

Someone else was telling me he would just run a 2 way passive and use the two A600s and run the whole system. I would really like your input and ideas. I want great sounding system. I listen to a lot of Jazz, but like a lot of other music.

Thanks,
Tim

1996blackmax

The PXA-H701 would be a great choice if you want to go active, hook this up to any Alpine HU with an optical output and you'll be set. You will also gain extensive tuning capabilities with this unit.

The SR series speakers are a great choice. For the components, I would not have an issue running those passively as the x-overs are very nice.

I would also run those older PPI's for the coolness factor ... that is if you have the room.

MacLeod

1- Active. Much more flexibility in tuning.
2- Are you crazy?! Id kill to have some Art series amps! Definitely use them!! I would run the 404 bi-amped to the SR speakers and then the 600 bridged mono to a sub.
3- The H701 is the best processor on the market IMO.
4- The best thing to go with is the Alpine 9860. They discontinued them last year but Crutchfield.com still has some in stock for $300!!!! The 9860 not only has an optical output which is perfect and 100% noise free for the 701 but it also can control the 701 so you wouldnt have to buy the remote unless you wanted to.

Tim B.

Can you explain how the bi-amped process works. If I went active would I not need an amp on all speakers in the system. Or are you talking passively.

I was thinking the same thing on the amps. But someone was really talking up the Alpine PDX series since they take up way less space. But I have always been pleased with the Art Series and mine look like new.

MacLeod

Keep the Art series!! Dont make me tell you again young man!

Bi-amping would indeed require an amp channel for each speaker.

Using your 404, youd run the tweeters off the front channels of the amp and the mids off the rear channels of the amp.

You can bi-amp and stay passive. The SR's crossover are bi-ampable.

1996blackmax

This will give you a little more tuning ability between the tweeters and the mids.

Tim B.

Don't worry I am sticking with the Arts. Was just explaining why I was considering the change.

So the way your talking about I would then stick with a two way set up correct. Will the 50 watts per channel be enough for the mid range drivers.

MacLeod

Yes. But remember, these are old school PPI's we're talking about here. I can guarantee you those things are making more than 50 watts. Id wager theyre at least 70 watts per channel.

Im running 50 watts to my SR's and it works just fine.

1996blackmax

I agree.. that should be enough to make them sound nice.

Tim B.

Thanks,

So your suggestion is to stick with two way passive setup bi-amping the SR6500 on the A404 and SR124 bridged mono on the A600. Therefore staying away from the 3 way set-up.

I appreciate your help

MacLeod

For a simple "plug and play" system, yeah that would be the way to go.

3 ways do have some benefits. First, you get to have sex with 2 women! Second, you can use a bigger amp to power your midbass drivers so you can get better midbass response than you normally could with a 2 way.

The downsides are a third amp and theyre a beyotch to tune right.

exalted512

I wouldnt go 3-way unless you plan on spending a lot of time making sure the install is right. More is not necessarily better, especially not if they were thrown in factory locations and called a day.
-Cody

Tim B.

If I went 3-way I was going to have them either make the custom door panel to house the 5.25 and 6.5s. Also have considered custom kick panels but I was not sure if I wanted to give up my dead pedel. I just want a great sounding system to compliment the car. The car has T-tops so I will have times I will driving with the tops off.

I have the amps if needed. My only concern is situation the sub and amp rack so I can still place my t-tops in the car. Plus if I wanted to go to a Z show I could place two overnight bags in the back. So I was highly considering building a false floor and building the sub box in the spare tire well.

I just want a great sounding system.

MacLeod

Im all about retaining the stock function of the car.

Here is my system in my old Ram. I had 3 amps, a processor and a 10" sub and still had all the seating it had before and still had quite a bit of storage space under the rear seat. It can be done.

The install Im doing now will retain almost all of the trunk.

As for kicks and all that, if youre wanting to compete in SQ competitions then maybe you should look into them. If not, Id skip them. I had enough room in my Ram for them but in my new Honda, I will probably never put kicks in there because I have enough leg room now but none to spare, plus Ive got a hood release AND a fuse box in the drivers side kick. I may eventually work some 5.25 mids in the dash if I can in future seasons but for now Ill be sticking with the stock speaker locations.

While they may be the perfect placement and make it impossible to has perfect imaging in both seats, with some work they can be made to sound just as good as any mounting location from the drivers seat.

You can have a great sounding system without using dedicated midbass drivers or giving up half your leg room. You probably wont win any show car awards but oh well.

dudeinaroom

KEEP THE PPI'S. And if any one is looking for some oldschool check out the bay. Rockford, PPI's, Adcom(car amps) and a few of my fav's
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real power not todays hype

Tim B.

thanks for all the help