few questions about wiring and my setup

black magic

okay, so i got everything i need to start installing my complete setup

- panasonic hu
- c500.1 x 2
- c400.4
- mm2124svc x 2
- wiring/fuses/distribution blocks
- 1.8 farad cap
- mmc525
- mmc6500
- a bunch of dynamat

before i add the 2nd c500.1 and the 2nd sub, i'm gonna only use one of each and see how i like it. If all is good, i think i'll sell them. otherwise i'll just add them. i dont want to be using up extra weight if i dont need it.

my question is this. when i come to power the amplifiers, my distribution block has fuse holders also. so will i still need another fuse/circuit breaker beside the battery? or will i be okay running about 12ft of wire then using the distribution block fuses. i obviously have no choice with the distribution block but i dont know if i need anything by the battery.

another question i have is when your mounting a sub, is there a benefit to having the sub face the box rather than the traditional method? or does that only work with specific subs?

I dont understand how to damped my doors. when i'm installing the components, do i cut a hole in the dynamat to fit around the speakers or do i leave it go behind them?

Joelsbass

First off, if you were that worried about the weight you'd have no system in the car, put em both in... you can always turn the volume down but once you sell off a set you can't get it any louder without paying for more gear.

ALWAYS FUSE AT THE BATTERY!!!!!!!!!!!!! no more than 18" from the terminal. here's why... if the coating on your power wire gets pinched or striped and makes contact with the metal in your car...
*with fuse at battery, you replace the fuse, re-run the wire, and go about your buisness...
*without fuse at battery, you run around in circles screaming OH MY GOD! MY CAR IS ON FIRE!!! SOMEONE PUT IT OUT!!! OH THE HUMANITY!!!
so yeah... the more fuses the better, also one more barrier between your expensive amps and a power surge! better to replace a fuse than an amp (or a car...)

Also when fusing go with a fuse lower than what the amp calls for, general rule of thumb is that whatever fuse the amp says it wants, the constant draw is about half that. So when installing your fuse at the battery, if you've got a combined amp rating of 180A run a 150A fuse at the battery. like i said it's always better to blow a fuse than an amp.

With regards to the way the sub is facing, it'd mainly a cosmetic issue, i'd say stick with the traditional method.

on the dynamat, you want to cut out sections for your speakers to mount, the way dynamat works is by acting as a stiffener for the metal, providing support and mass to decrease vibrations running through the frame. this keeps more of the energy running through your speakers hitting the air (audio) instead of getting lost in the frame (kinnetic)

hope that helps

black magic

Thank you very much, man! I should begin the install next weekend or the weekend after. I'll let you know how it goes.