For H9!

dkg999

Here they are! In the pic's they look like oak, but they are the walnut finish.

heiney9

Thanks, I'll take 'em whenever we get together again. These will become my new project. Perhaps a re-clothing of the grills, x-over refreshing and eventually RDO's. 5b's were the original Polks I owned way back and it'll be nice to have a pair again. Should work perfectly in the office/computer rig. :cool:

H9

jakelm

H9...does "refreshing" the crossover really make that much of a difference? I was thinking of doing that for my 7b's but wasnt sure if it was worth the time. Changing out caps and resistors, I would think if it works then it works.

Jake

By the way...beautiful speakers, they seem in great shape.

heiney9

jakelm wrote:

H9...does "refreshing" the crossover really make that much of a difference? I was thinking of doing that for my 7b's but wasnt sure if it was worth the time. Changing out caps and resistors, I would think if it works then it works.

Jake

By the way...beautiful speakers, they seem in great shape.

Considering the age I'd postively say yes. I'm going to go with Solens so I'm not planning on getting crazy expensive parts, plus I need a good project during the cold months right now.

Over time caps dry up wear out, plus the technology of new caps can be a bit better and you can choose upgraded parts which all enhance the performance. Like I said I'm not going crazy here just some Solen caps and Mills resistors new solder and I'm done.

H9

jakelm

I undertsand....Maybe a good project for me as well.....But the copper coiling doesnt have to be touched? I hope not.. But ok..changing resistors and caps, I will do.. Maybe it will take care of that raspiness I hear sometimes.

Thanks H9

I deal alot with partexpress. What are your thoughts on the quality they offer? In regaurds to caps and resistors.

heiney9

I'm definatly not the expert but PE is an excellent source for parts. I believe they carry Solen caps and Mills resistors. Maybe F1 or others who have done this on a regular basis can chime in. But PE and the products they carry are very good to deal with.

Yes, I would just do the caps and resistors. Inductors rarely need changing unless they are damaged. Also be aware that many times the replacement/new caps are physically larger so the arrangement on the board needs to be planned out before starting. Also, if they don't have the exact value part you may need to piggyback a couple components to reach the correct values specified in the schematic.

H9

heiney9

jakelm wrote:

Maybe it will take care of that raspiness I hear sometimes.

The sl2000 is most likely the culprit for raspiness. Changing to the new silk domes (RDO's) is the ticket. But x-over refresh and the RDO's can get expensive, but IMO very worth it especially if you are going to keep them for any length of time. The 7's are very nice.

jakelm

I have the peerless on my 7b's (1979). And yes I plan on keeping them until the end. My center channel I built has a 10a crossover in it, I might refresh that one too.

Thanks H9, I will give it a shot.

steveinaz

One of the best Polk ever built.

heiney9

jakelm wrote:

I have the peerless on my 7b's (1979). And yes I plan on keeping them until the end. My center channel I built has a 10a crossover in it, I might refresh that one too.

Thanks H9, I will give it a shot.

I thought only 7A's had peerless. Yes, keep the peerless and they are certainly worth refreshing.

Until what end? Your end or the end of the world or whatever comes first

jakelm

heiney9 wrote:

I thought only 7A's had peerless. Yes, keep the peerless and they are certainly worth refreshing.

Until what end? Your end or the end of the world or whatever comes first

7b's and some 7c's, I have seen with peerless.

Which ever end comes first.

My dad has stacked 7a's , when I asked him for them, he told me the same thing.

....... I had to buy my own.

Eiderlon

Deciding on grill color is always tough for me...