Amps - Class A-A/B reality
polkatese
Posts: 6,767
For those amps which are rated to be Class A and A/B, is it fair to say that its presentation and slam while in the class A level is the reason why it is coveted? When I said slam, I meant also the micro-details.
From design perspective, is it considered to be in different class together, sort of the best of both worlds of pure Class A (too hot to handle) and Class A/B (lack of slam in lower volume)?
EE in the house, please educate me...
Thanks.
From design perspective, is it considered to be in different class together, sort of the best of both worlds of pure Class A (too hot to handle) and Class A/B (lack of slam in lower volume)?
EE in the house, please educate me...
Thanks.
I am sorry, I have no opinion on the matter. I am sure you do. So, don't mind me, I just want to talk audio and pie.
Post edited by polkatese on
Comments
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Part EE in the house here, why would an A/B amp have less slam at low volume over an A class amp in the first place? Do you have amp names / models that you're comparing?
Speakers
Carver Amazing Fronts
CS400i Center
RT800i's Rears
Sub Paradigm Servo 15
Electronics
Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
Parasound Halo A23
Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
Pioneer 79Avi DVD
Sony CX400 CD changer
Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR -
Here is a pretty good (and technical) paper on class a amplifiers.Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms) -
DJ7, not comparing any amps, but wondering about amps slam at lower volume, and its relation to the operating mode. Most of the amps in the 200+ watts are class A/AB (i.e. B&K Ref200.7, Gemstone, etc.)
Michael, thanks for the linky. I am reading it right now.I am sorry, I have no opinion on the matter. I am sure you do. So, don't mind me, I just want to talk audio and pie. -
Ok so what am I missing here, I know for the most part class A amps can be cleaner sounding (less distortion) but what are you talking about less slam at low volume where did you hear that?
Speakers
Carver Amazing Fronts
CS400i Center
RT800i's Rears
Sub Paradigm Servo 15
Electronics
Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
Parasound Halo A23
Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
Pioneer 79Avi DVD
Sony CX400 CD changer
Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR -
From what I read and experienced, class A has more slam at lower volume compared to class AB. But, I am not sure if it is absolute or really it's a function of amp design.I am sorry, I have no opinion on the matter. I am sure you do. So, don't mind me, I just want to talk audio and pie.
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Class A/B runs Class A at low wattage, some up to as much as 30wpc or so. If you run 90dB speakers, you're using 1 watt to achieve 90dB, so regardless of the amp being Class A or A/B, both are Class A at that point.....at least until you hit a big transient.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I hit a transient once....but he had no class..!!
sorry....carry on..!!
I would actually like to learn what you are talking about...I`m just kinda tiredCary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
Parasound HCA-3500
Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
Jolida JD-100 CDP
Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
SVS PC-Ultra Sub
AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
PS Audio Plus Power Cords
Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)
:cool: -
F1nut wrote:Class A/B runs Class A at low wattage, some up to as much as 30wpc or so. If you run 90dB speakers, you're using 1 watt to achieve 90dB, so regardless of the amp being Class A or A/B, both are Class A at that point.....at least until you hit a big transient.
BINGO!!HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
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Sony 4k BRP
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Polk FX500 surrounds
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lsi 9's -
beardog03 wrote:I hit a transient once....but he had no class..!!
WAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!
Thanks Bear for the milk which speweth from mine nose onto our blessed computer screen fortwith says I verily. Amen.
As for pure Class A, it's my understanding that the most notable perk is that of less distortion.I never had it like this where I grew up. But I send my kids here because the fact is you go to one of the best schools in the country: Rushmore. Now, for some of you it doesn't matter. You were born rich and you're going to stay rich. But here's my advice to the rest of you: Take dead aim on the rich boys. Get them in the crosshairs and take them down. Just remember, they can buy anything but they can't buy backbone. Don't let them forget it. Thank you.Herman Blume - Rushmore -
Oh man Class a , class a/b has to do with design. Class A is cleaner sounding and will typically handle transients better thus CLEANER. Class A runs hot as hell Class a/b is more efficient less heat with a lil sacrifice in the distortion percentage. But less slam at low volume , what amp are you speaking of or comparing?:cool: " He who dies with the most equipment wins Right ? "
Denon 3300 Adcom 535 BBe w/sub out 1 pr 4.6s 2 pr of 4 jrs Recent additions Samsung Lns-4095D LCD, Samsung hd-960 DVD, Monster HT-5000 Power center,HPSA-1000 18" sealed DiY home sub.:D
Black Laquer 1.2tl's w/ upgraded x-overs and Tweets BI-Amped with 2 Carver tfm-35's Knukonceptz 10ga cables -
Class A- A/B amps are a good combo of low level dynamics and loud and cooler when needed.