WTB: 4) MW6503's for Monitor 10B's
avguytx
Posts: 1,628
If anyone has 1, 2, ok...whatever, (lol) I am in need. PM me if so.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Richard? Who's your favorite Little Rascal? Alfalfa? Or is it........................Spanky?.................................Sinner.
Post edited by avguytx on
Comments
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You cant get any from Polk?
Sorry I just read your other thread,Monitor 7b's front
Monitor 4's surround
Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
M10's back surround
Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
Harman/Kardon AVR-635
Oppo 981hd
Denon upconvert DVD player
Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
Mit RPTV WS-55513
Tosh HD-XA1
B&K AV5000
Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek: -
Yeah, they have them but I thought I would check here first to see if anyone had any hanging around from a project, etc. You never know!Richard? Who's your favorite Little Rascal? Alfalfa? Or is it........................Spanky?.................................Sinner.
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Good luck. Used ones don't ship very well and often arrive with the magnets popped off or the driver stuck to the pole magnet. Here's something to chew on. http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43823
New drivers from Polk Audio are minty fresh and packed to survive shipping. -
The manufactures don't magnatize the magnet till the speaker is assembled so it's easy to assemble and align the pole piece. Trying to align the back plate/pole piece is almost imposible with the magnet magnatized. The reason this comes loose is Polk used crappy glue. This rarely happens with other speakers. It really makes you wonder about quality control? And are the new replacements any better?? Obviously their making a fortune of replacement sales. Mathew is smiling all the way to the bank...... Oh ya, I need a pair of 6502's because of the same reason......
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Did they use crappy glue? Maybe. But they learned from it and moved on. Such is how companies evolve.
If you knew anything about Matt or his crew you wouldn't even think of what you just said about him. That is not their mantra. What other companies can you think of that still produce new mid-woofers and improved tweeters for speakers they made a quarter century ago? -
Arn't all the polk replacement speaker now made in china? Is china glue better?
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I hope it is I just bought two
I hope it is I just bought two MW 6503 drivers from polk for my 10bs -
Polk65 wrote:Did they use crappy glue? Maybe. But they learned from it and moved on. Such is how companies evolve.
Maybe? they used crappy glue? ??? It's a small 6" speaker with a small magnet and the glue still can't hold them together! I've never known any speaker to fall apart so easy. Look at all the large 12" speakers with large magnets with no problems. Your correct I don't know Mathew but I do know he didn't want to spend any money on glue like other companys of that time period. And yes of course they sell fine replacements. They're making a decent buck doing it. It's about business and profits not how can we can keep people happy with their 25 yr old speakers. That's reality... I'm not sure a 6" average looking 6502 replacement for $50 is a great deal?..... Anyway, I do enjoy this website and loyal Polk customers,etc.... -
I just received my 6503 from polk...well packed..although it looks like it was made in china...At least I can keep my 3.1's running...So I am happy in a way..Just sad they are not made in USA.:eek: From the bottom it looks like a steep incline, From the top another down hill slope of mine.:mad: But I know the equilibrium's there!:cool: .."Faith No More"
Sony cx985v (for now)
BBE 482i
B&K AVP 1030
Adcom GFA 555 mk 2
AudioQuest Crystal 2 spk wire
Nordost RCA
SDA 3.1 tl RD0 tweets
Belkin pf60
Carver TFM 55x
Signal Analog 2 RCA
AudioQuestType 4
VMPS Original Tall Boy (Mega Woofers soon) -
CC, why do you need two 6502's? Did they suddenly stop working?
SC, as with many products these days... they are designed here and build to spec. overseas. I agree, it's too bad they are not made here but that's another can of worms. -
I need all 4 replaced in my 10B's as I have 6502's in the cabinet (supposed to be 6503's Ken said) and only one pair has the correct impedance. On one side, each mid reads around 7-ohm. On the other, both read around 3-ohm each (+/-). I guess I could get one pair of 6502's that are the right impedance and call it good. I know that's making the "weird side's" crossover incorrect for the low pass side and putting a weird load on the amp on one channel.
I agree Polk65. Designed and engineered in the states and built offshore. Companies have to do it that way to stay competitive. It's just how it works these days.Richard? Who's your favorite Little Rascal? Alfalfa? Or is it........................Spanky?.................................Sinner. -
Sounds to me like someone put 6502's in there as a quick fix. Are you measuring around 7ohms from some of your 6502? As I recall, 6502 DCR should be around 3.5ohms - 4ohms and 6.5ohms - 7ohms for 6503's.
The resonant frequencies of 6503's are nearly half that of 6502's. Put what belongs in there and you will enjoy them. Check this out. Click on Monitors.
http://clubpolk.polkaudio.com/service/models/ -
The 6502's in one cabinet metered at 3.7 and 3.6 ohm. That cabinet at the INPUT terminal meters at 2.7 ohm! In the other cabinet, the two 6502's metered at 7.2 and 6.9 ohm and the at the input terminals was 4.3 ohm. Weird. Measuring each mid, of course, was done out of the cabinet independently.
Yeah, I've already seen that site and that's what got me to researching what was in there. NONE of the Monitor 10's ever came with 6502's. The original 10's had 6500's, later had 6501's and finally the 6503's. It's odd that the same type of drivers (6502's in mine) have such different characteristics from each other. I just hate spending $200 on mid/woofers. That could go towards getting SDA's which is what I'm zero-ing in on!Richard? Who's your favorite Little Rascal? Alfalfa? Or is it........................Spanky?.................................Sinner. -
avguytx wrote:The 6502's in one cabinet metered at 3.7 and 3.6 ohm. That cabinet at the INPUT terminal meters at 2.7 ohm! In the other cabinet, the two 6502's metered at 7.2 and 6.9 ohm and the at the input terminals was 4.3 ohm. Weird. Measuring each mid, of course, was done out of the cabinet independently.
!
Take one 7.2 and pair it with the 3.7. Take the other 6.9 and pair with the 3.6 and see what you get as total ohms at the input. Then try running them in series instead of paralell. IMO 2.7 and 4.3 is too low of a total ohm for the intire speaker. I would try to get it between 6 and 8 ohms.
I would try this option if the 6503's dont sound to your liking.Monitor 7b's front
Monitor 4's surround
Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
M10's back surround
Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
Harman/Kardon AVR-635
Oppo 981hd
Denon upconvert DVD player
Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
Mit RPTV WS-55513
Tosh HD-XA1
B&K AV5000
Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek: -
Just noticed something interesting again after removing the 6502's. The two that read around 7-ohm each say on the back of the magnet "SDA CRS" and are dated January 24, 1985. On the other two that read around 4-ohm each, the tag shows the models it was made for "M4, M5jr, M5 and M7" and are dated August 14th, 1985.
Funny, in looking at the replacement parts list, it never showed any 6502's being used in the SDA CRS's OR the Monitor 10B's...EVER! Either some dealer did a piss poor job of replacing under warranty (in 1985) or someone in production had a hangover that day and couldn't read the tags! haha. They must have been built on a Monday or a Friday! lol
Both cabinets wire the mids in parallel so I am putting a 4-ohm and 8-ohm per side wired both different ways to see what the end results are at the terminals. Will report back.
Edit:
With a 3-ohm and 7-ohm in each cabinet wired in series, it did what I thought it would...came out at 10.5-ohm. With a 3-ohm and a 7-ohm per cabinet wired in parallel, it ends up around 3.5-ohm which is about where I thought it would be. I'm going the parallel route because at least both sides are the same. I'll see how they sound now.Richard? Who's your favorite Little Rascal? Alfalfa? Or is it........................Spanky?.................................Sinner. -
It may not be perfect but at least both cabinets read the same impedance to the amp instead of being different. Sound wise...not that noticeable of a difference. Still sound great...and that's what matters!Richard? Who's your favorite Little Rascal? Alfalfa? Or is it........................Spanky?.................................Sinner.