Need Help on MOMO install on center console boat
edvb
Posts: 3
I have a 17' Center console that I am mounting two MMC650 and a MM2104DVC Sub with a 3/4 plywood enclosure glassed on the back of the console. Where I have glassed it in the front face should be about 1" thick where the sub mounting screws are attached.
The speakers will be facing me.
I have two Trojan group 27 AGM to power the amps.
I have a Clarion APX480M at 80RMS per channel feeding 4 MMC650 wired to each channel . Two in front and two in the console.
I want to get the MTX TC3001 at 300RMS at 2 ohms to power the sub.
I have the remote for the Clarion CMD4A and with the Sub level control included with the TC3001 I would be able to adjust the current draw on the fly by adjusting the sub gain if needed.
The batteries will be charged at the end of the day but will only get about a max of 25 amps charging current when charging from the outboard motor.
Will the MTX TC3001 be big enough for the sub? This is on a boat that is wide open.
Am I better off with the Clarion CMSW10.1 free air 10" sub rated at about 150RMS power?
I have one now but willing to go the MOMO route including making the enclosure if it will sound much better. It would then also match the other speakers.
I like a good SQ low end so the sub will fill in the bottom. I will not be playing the sub at pounding levels but at cruise with the wind noise it will be playing pretty loud. Remember that the speakers will be facing me less than 3.5 to 4 feet away
I need to watch my current draw as I will be discharging the batteries more that the alternator (regulated 25 amps) on the outboard can keep up. I have about 90 amp hours to play with till I get to 50% disharge on the batteries.
What are your ideas on this? I could not afford the JL Audio components and the CDM4A came with the boat. Help me out here please.
The speakers will be facing me.
I have two Trojan group 27 AGM to power the amps.
I have a Clarion APX480M at 80RMS per channel feeding 4 MMC650 wired to each channel . Two in front and two in the console.
I want to get the MTX TC3001 at 300RMS at 2 ohms to power the sub.
I have the remote for the Clarion CMD4A and with the Sub level control included with the TC3001 I would be able to adjust the current draw on the fly by adjusting the sub gain if needed.
The batteries will be charged at the end of the day but will only get about a max of 25 amps charging current when charging from the outboard motor.
Will the MTX TC3001 be big enough for the sub? This is on a boat that is wide open.
Am I better off with the Clarion CMSW10.1 free air 10" sub rated at about 150RMS power?
I have one now but willing to go the MOMO route including making the enclosure if it will sound much better. It would then also match the other speakers.
I like a good SQ low end so the sub will fill in the bottom. I will not be playing the sub at pounding levels but at cruise with the wind noise it will be playing pretty loud. Remember that the speakers will be facing me less than 3.5 to 4 feet away
I need to watch my current draw as I will be discharging the batteries more that the alternator (regulated 25 amps) on the outboard can keep up. I have about 90 amp hours to play with till I get to 50% disharge on the batteries.
What are your ideas on this? I could not afford the JL Audio components and the CDM4A came with the boat. Help me out here please.
Post edited by edvb on
Comments
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NICE... how does it all sound
? 2013 Toyota Prius
Audible Physics 3 Way: H6MB, AR3-A, AR2.0
Image Dynamics iDMax 12" D2v4
(2) Alpine PDX-V9 Bridged, Alpine PDX-M12 (500w Mid-Bass, 200w Mid, 200w Tweet, 1200w Sub)
Mosconi 6to8 v8 -
eloplayspolo
Super. The key is the enclosure for the sub. Most marine subs are free air that just do not give you the sound pressure for the bass when in a cruise mode. Location is another. It may not look the best but sitting down and cranking in the music with all the speakers right in front of you is not a bad thing at all. 80 Watts RMS each to the four 650's and 300 RMS to the DVC sub doesn't hurt either -
woow im more impressed by the rideZ
/////Alpine CDA-9887 HU
/////Alpine KTX-1000EQ
/////Alpine PDX-4.150
/////Alpine PDX-1.1000
Polk Audio SR 6500
Polk Audio SR 124 DVC
KnuKonceptz MKS Kable
G35
/////Alpine CDA-9887 HU
/////Alpine KTX-1000EQ
/////Alpine PDX-4.150
/////Alpine PDX-1.1000
/////Alpine SPX 17PRO
/////Alpine SWX 1243D
KnuKonceptz MKS Kable -
Hell yeah! Rock on, this is just something you will have to try out. You could get a capacitor, but if you listen to music that has constant bass, a cap won't help.
