Need some encouragement to bi-wire

Early B.
Early B. Posts: 7,900
My system is begging to be bi-wired. My amp has two pair of binding posts for each channel. Flip a switch on the back of the amp and it changes to a bi-wire configuration. Likewise with my speakers; they have a switch on the back for bi-wiring (no external jumpers).

Just not sure if bi-wiring is worth the hassle. Of course, there's only one way to find out, hence the encouragement needed. Is it a road worth traveling?

Thanks.

P.S. -- I don't have an extra set of nice speaker cables to experiment with, so that's why I'm posing the question. I'd have to spend some money to do it. Aaarrgghhh!!
HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

"God grooves with tubes."
Post edited by Early B. on

Comments

  • Dennis Gardner
    Dennis Gardner Posts: 4,861
    edited January 2007
    Just my findings.............I've never heard any real difference in biwiring and only subtle differences with biamping even with some fairly nice gear until I went active biamping with an electronic crossover on the ADS towers that have the biamp mode that cuts out the internal crossovers completely.

    I will add that it is always worth a try since the cost of another wire run is minimal, and reversable.
    HT Optoma HD25 LV on 80" DIY Screen, Anthem MRX 300 Receiver, Pioneer Elite BDP 51FD Polk CS350LS, Polk SDA1C, Polk FX300, Polk RT55, Dual EBS Adire Shiva 320watt tuned to 17hz, ICs-DIY Twisted Prs, Speaker-Raymond Cable

    2 Channel Thorens TD 318 Grado ZF1, SACD/CD Marantz 8260, Soundstream/Krell DAC1, Audio Mirror PP1, Odyssey Stratos, ADS L-1290, ICs-DIY Twisted , Speaker-Raymond Cable
  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited January 2007
    Thanks, Dennis. The comments about your own experiences makes my decision easier.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,678
    edited January 2007
    You'll get no encouragement from me.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • beardog03
    beardog03 Posts: 5,550
    edited January 2007
    do it...do it


    do it...



    I did.....

    doesn`t make it right, but I did....:rolleyes:

    :D


    oh , wait !
    I just re-read your post...

    don`t do it

    won`t make a damn bit of difference
    Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
    Parasound HCA-3500
    Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
    Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
    Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
    Jolida JD-100 CDP
    Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
    SVS PC-Ultra Sub
    AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
    MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
    AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
    PS Audio Plus Power Cords
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
    Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
    Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)


    :cool:
  • Frank Z
    Frank Z Posts: 5,860
    edited January 2007
    I tried it...no difference to my ears.
    9/11 - WE WILL NEVER FORGET!! (<---<<click)
    2005-06 Club Polk Football Pool Champion!! :D
  • schwarcw
    schwarcw Posts: 7,340
    edited January 2007
    This is one of the much debated and opinionated topics. If you believe that better quality jumpers work, the bi-wires should make an improvement too. For the same reason, the signal to the tweeters by-passes some crossovers components for the mid and low bass woofers.

    There will be folks that say that interconnects make a big difference, but speakers wires don't.

    Some don't think either will change the SQ.

    I have heard differences in all of the above, when matched with the right equipment. Good equipment will reveal the limitations of some of your conductors.

    Or maybe not:D

    Only your ears can tell you, be open minded and give it a try.
    Carl

  • beardog03
    beardog03 Posts: 5,550
    edited January 2007
    If you bi-amp off a reciever you will not hear a diff...

    Like you just said ...if your gear can make it happen , and your able to hear that it can, then I say Do It..

    Try it...what do ya got to loose..?!
    Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
    Parasound HCA-3500
    Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
    Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
    Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
    Jolida JD-100 CDP
    Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
    SVS PC-Ultra Sub
    AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
    MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
    AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
    PS Audio Plus Power Cords
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
    Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
    Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)


    :cool:
  • IanD
    IanD Posts: 59
    edited January 2007
    I bi-wired my old RT55's and like some folks above, no difference. Kept them bi-wired cause it looked nice.:rolleyes:
    However on my new Rti10's it made a difference, at least to my ears. The cable I used is ISOS XHS806, double runs. Was it a huge difference? Not really but since all those binding posts were back there I decided to use them.
    I would agree that before you bi-wire, loose the stamped mystery metal jumpers and replace them with quality speaker cable. Do not confuse quality with high price. IXOS cable is pretty inexpensive and it will make a difference to what your ears hear. (I paid $2.50 a foot) Another cable that works for me and is a bargin is Canare 4S6 (again around $2.50 a foot) and can be used a bi-wire cable or twisted together to make a regular double cable.
    I have to agree that it also depends upon the equipment in your system and how you have your cables running behind the system. If you took the time to make sure that power cords are away from interconnects are away from speaker cables, I bet that sound as well a PQ would improve.
    Just my 2 cents on an early Saturday morning.
    Yamaha RX-V1500
    Pioneer Elite DV-46AV
    Scientific Atalana 8300 PVR-HD
    Panasonic TH-42PX60U
    Polk RTi10
    Polk CSi5
    Polk F/Xi3
    Polk PSW 350
    Mike's IC's
    DIY speaker cables (Kimber 4VS Shotgunned)
  • danger boy
    danger boy Posts: 15,722
    edited January 2007
    DO IT, DO IT, DO IT!

    don't do it, don't do it, DON'T DO IT!!!

    Oh what the hell DO IT, DO IT, DO IT!!!!

    Nevermind, DON'T DO IT, DON'T DO IT!!!!!

    Well, might as well DO IT, DO IT, DO IT!!!!!

    but then I wouldn't DO IT, DON'T DO IT, DON'T DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!
    PolkFest 2012, who's going>?
    Vancouver, Canada Sept 30th, 2012 - Madonna concert :cheesygrin:
  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited January 2007
    Decided not to do it.

    Thanks, fellas.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
  • beardog03
    beardog03 Posts: 5,550
    edited January 2007
    danger boy wrote:
    DO IT, DO IT, DO IT!

    don't do it, don't do it, DON'T DO IT!!!

    Oh what the hell DO IT, DO IT, DO IT!!!!

    Nevermind, DON'T DO IT, DON'T DO IT!!!!!

    Well, might as well DO IT, DO IT, DO IT!!!!!

    but then I wouldn't DO IT, DON'T DO IT, DON'T DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!




    wwwwwwwwwwwaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

    right there with ya bro...!!!

    Just do it already !
    It can`t hurt......much



    nevermind.....don`t do it
    Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
    Parasound HCA-3500
    Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
    Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
    Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
    Jolida JD-100 CDP
    Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
    SVS PC-Ultra Sub
    AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
    MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
    AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
    PS Audio Plus Power Cords
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
    Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
    Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)


    :cool:
  • shack
    shack Posts: 11,154
    edited January 2007
    I say...bi-amp.
    "Just because you’re offended doesn’t mean you’re right." - Ricky Gervais

    "For those who believe, no proof is necessary. For those who don't believe, no proof is possible." - Stuart Chase

    "Consistency requires you to be as ignorant today as you were a year ago." - Bernard Berenson
  • amulford
    amulford Posts: 5,020
    edited January 2007
    What do you mean you have bi wire config on your amp? does it filter, a kind of internal active croosover?
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,983
    edited January 2007
    Thats what tweeking is all about.You'll never know till you try.Personnally,I would,those big boys deserve it.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
  • janmike
    janmike Posts: 6,146
    edited January 2007
    Like stated before, if you don't you will never know. I am sure you had the same feeling early in your audio hobby about something else. DO IT!
    Michael ;)
    In the beginning, all knowledge was new!

    NORTH of 60°
  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited January 2007
    amulford wrote:
    What do you mean you have bi wire config on your amp? does it filter, a kind of internal active croosover?

    Correction -- no switch on the back (the switch is for balanced/unbalanced). The amp has two pair of binding posts for each channel in case you wanna bi-wire.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited January 2007
    The other influencing factor for NOT bi-wiring came from a VMPS guru who owned these speakers before and he said bi-wiring didn't help, although running a set of external jumpers may offer a slight improvement.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
  • danger boy
    danger boy Posts: 15,722
    edited January 2007
    I think people like to explore with bi wiring because they are curious about it.. some think they will see a big improvement in their speakers sound quality. I was there myself long ago.. and let me tell you.. it cured my curiosity... and I never tried it again.

    So Early.. just try it out.... don't worry about what i wrote... you obviously have been thinking about it alot.. and it's going to be eating away at you till you try it for yourself.. so do it.

    just be safe and wear a condom. :eek: :p :rolleyes:
    PolkFest 2012, who's going>?
    Vancouver, Canada Sept 30th, 2012 - Madonna concert :cheesygrin:
  • polkatese
    polkatese Posts: 6,767
    edited January 2007
    Brad, give it a try. If it works, great, if not, so what? Your curiousity will eat you alive, otherwise.
    I am sorry, I have no opinion on the matter. I am sure you do. So, don't mind me, I just want to talk audio and pie.
  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited January 2007
    danger boy wrote:
    just be safe and wear a condom. :eek: :p :rolleyes:

    I always do, just in case I need to contain pre-nut leakage...
    Makes a **** of a stain.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited January 2007
    polkatese wrote:
    Brad, give it a try. If it works, great, if not, so what? Your curiousity will eat you alive, otherwise.

    My curiosity has waned. Already moved onto somethin' else -- a sealed sub for HT.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."