Can I put my home sub in my car?

neokeelo
neokeelo Posts: 168
edited November 2007 in Car Audio & Electronics
ok, so I just installed some Infinity reference speakers in my car.

(2) 4 inch and (2) 6.5 inch. I am not satisfied with the bass output of this setup.

I have 2 home theater subs.
One is a 10" 100 watt passive Kenwood The other is a Jensen 12" 100watt powered sub.

Instead of buying a car subwoofer and an amp. Can I just buy a DC to AC converter and use the powered sub?

Here is what the powered sub looks like except it is front firing.
http://cgi.ebay.com/JENSEN-JS-1000A-12-100-WATT-DOWN-FIRING-SUB-LIKE-NEW_W0QQitemZ250068709896QQihZ015QQcategoryZ3275QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


what should I do?
My System
Pre/Pro - Integra DTR 40.2
Amplifier -Parasound 2205a
Paradigm Studio 60s V5 Mains
Paradigm Studio 590 V5 Center
Paradigm 20s - rear ( Wanted)
SUB - SVS PB12-NSD
LG PK250 60inch Plasma
Post edited by neokeelo on

Comments

  • vawakemonster
    vawakemonster Posts: 131
    edited January 2007
    I hate the hijack the thread but is there any way to hook a car sub up in my room?
    Dodge Dakota
    HU: Pioneer
    Amp: Profile AP600 & Phoenix gold r2.5:2
    Speakers: Boston SX 6.5 components
    Subwoofer: polk mm2104
  • BaggedLancer
    BaggedLancer Posts: 6,371
    edited January 2007
    Person A - neokeelo
    Person B - vawakmonster

    Person A. Send your home sub to Person B
    Person B. Send your car sub to Person A.

    Problem Solved. That was easy. :)
  • MacLeod
    MacLeod Posts: 14,358
    edited January 2007
    I suppose you could do that, although it would be a lot easier and less time consuming to just buy a sub and amp for your car.

    As for the car sub in the home, sure. Just make sure the amp youre using to power it can handle a 4 ohm mono load. Most home audio gear is 8 ohm.
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
    08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st

    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D
  • ntculenuff
    ntculenuff Posts: 1,146
    edited January 2007
    at one point in my life i found myself with a ton of car audio gear and no car.
    i built some tower enclosures for my speakers and purchased a nice 120 to 12v convertor and had one hell of a 2 channel car audio system in my house(wish i had pics)

    and at one point before i had nice car audio gear i ran some home speakers cabinets and all in my truck off an alphasonic 50 watt amp :)

    as far as using a dc convertor to run the home amp you might run into some problems with the convertor shutting off with the demand for power. but hey give it a try you never know it might just get you by and create conversation (maybe a headache or 2 :) )

    i'm with Macleod it might be easier to just get a sub and amp designed for car
    Speakers:
    Definitive BP7001sc mains
    Definitive C/L/R 3000 center
    Polk RT800i's rears
    Definitive supercube I Sub
    Audio:
    Onkyo TX-NR3010
    Emotiva XPA five Gen 3
    OPPO BDP-103 CD, SACD, DVD-A
    Video:
    Panasonic TC-P65ZT60
    OPPO BDP-103 Bluray
    Directv x's 2
  • BaggedLancer
    BaggedLancer Posts: 6,371
    edited January 2007
    No one likes my solution :(
  • beardog03
    beardog03 Posts: 5,550
    edited January 2007
    very clevr BL, very clevr..!!


    and quick response too...gotta get points for that !

    I thought it made sense.....the `ol switcheroo
    Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
    Parasound HCA-3500
    Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
    Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
    Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
    Jolida JD-100 CDP
    Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
    SVS PC-Ultra Sub
    AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
    MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
    AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
    PS Audio Plus Power Cords
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
    Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
    Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)


    :cool:
  • lpreston
    lpreston Posts: 35
    edited January 2007
    BL has the easy method. :D

    On the power converter (as previously mentioned), unless you get a big one, you will exceed whats its capable of providing. You are talking at least $200-400 for a decent one. Would be cheaper to get an amp and sub for a car.
    Panasonic CQ-TX5500 Japanese Tube
    PrecisionPower DCX-730 Processor
    McIntosh MMC446
    polkaudio SR6500 x2
    polkaudio SR104DVC x 2
  • BaggedLancer
    BaggedLancer Posts: 6,371
    edited January 2007
    beardog03 wrote:
    very clevr BL, very clevr..!!


    and quick response too...gotta get points for that !

    I thought it made sense.....the `ol switcheroo


    i thought it was pretty clever myself :)

    Now if they did that it would be amazing lol:D
  • Jstas
    Jstas Posts: 14,804
    edited January 2007
    lpreston wrote:
    BL has the easy method. :D

    On the power converter (as previously mentioned), unless you get a big one, you will exceed whats its capable of providing. You are talking at least $200-400 for a decent one. Would be cheaper to get an amp and sub for a car.

    Honestly, to run most car audio gear, you will need a power supply that is capable of handling at least a 30 amp constant draw with double the peak amperage. Yes, you can get bench power supplies that will do that kind of power but you are talking about...literally, a small welding power supply.

    Also, it is insanely inefficient. Speakers are speakers fundametally and if you want to put car speakers in enclosures and use them in your home, it can be a successful venture. However, it is best to get an amp wired to run off of the 120v outlet in your house. A simple 100 watt per channel stereo amp for your home will use less than 1/4 of the power the DC power supply and car amp would use.
    Expert Moron Extraordinaire

    You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you!
  • lpreston
    lpreston Posts: 35
    edited January 2007
    Jstas wrote:
    Also, it is insanely inefficient. Speakers are speakers fundametally and if you want to put car speakers in enclosures and use them in your home, it can be a successful venture.

    The only thing you need to look at is your ohm load. Most home drivers will be 8 ohm and car normally is 4...but some car subs will vary anywhere from 2 ohm up depending on how you will wire with (series or parallel) and with how many will be used. A car amp will vary tremendiously in its output based on the ohm load of the sub array.
    Panasonic CQ-TX5500 Japanese Tube
    PrecisionPower DCX-730 Processor
    McIntosh MMC446
    polkaudio SR6500 x2
    polkaudio SR104DVC x 2
  • bobman1235
    bobman1235 Posts: 10,822
    edited January 2007
    You could always follow this guy's lead. :D

    If you have extra home audio subs and not enough car audio subs.... why not sell the one you have extra of for money to buy the one you want more of..?
    If you will it, dude, it is no dream.
  • Jstas
    Jstas Posts: 14,804
    edited January 2007
    lpreston wrote:
    The only thing you need to look at is your ohm load. Most home drivers will be 8 ohm and car normally is 4...but some car subs will vary anywhere from 2 ohm up depending on how you will wire with (series or parallel) and with how many will be used. A car amp will vary tremendiously in its output based on the ohm load of the sub array.

    Amplification is amplification, fundamentally. If you see a home amp that is 8-4 ohm capable but it has the same power output at any impedance, it has a regulated power supply. Any non-regulated power supply should almost double in power output if you cut the impedance in half.

    There are also quite a few stereo amplifiers for your home that will handle 4 ohm speakers without a problem. Most car speakers are marked with thier ratings and only the drivers designed for extreme SPL will have 2 ohm examples. Those are not recommended for any system that would be used for critical listening. They make noise and alot of it. That's it. However, if you had two 2 ohm load subs, they can be wired to present a 4 ohm load. You can wire two 8 ohm subs to present a 4 ohm load also. When speaking of circuits, speakers are resistors and all the rules of circuits apply.


    Officially, I am going to go on the record as saying this is not such a great idea. I am using a car sub at home but it's powered with a home based amp running off of standard 120V out of the wall. The DC power supply idea is not exactly the safest, generates a good deal of heat and in a few cases, has exposed power leads which can be shorted and start fires. For teh car, a home sub would not be ideal by far. The enclosures are not built sturdy enough to handle the abuse a car can dish out and thier amps will draw a good deal of current on a power inverter. That creates alot of heat and can starve teh amplifier of power which would then make it clip and start destroying stuff.

    I'd just get a sub and amp for the car and call it a day.
    Expert Moron Extraordinaire

    You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you!
  • neokeelo
    neokeelo Posts: 168
    edited January 2007
    Success!

    I did not spend one penny and I got exactly what I wanted.

    I used the powered Jensen sub and my inverter to rig this up. The Inverter is running off the cigarette adaptor. The back of the inverter says to connect directly to the battery when using over 150 watts, but since this is only a 100 watt sub I think it will be ok. After letting it play for maybe 15 mins, I touched it and it was not even warm. I wired the sub into the front pre outs using 2 RCA cables. These pics are from tonight. I will eventually get these wires hidden and out of sight. Now I just need to get something to hold the sub in place. It sounds totally different now. The sub does not blow you away by any means but it does complete the sound stage nicely. Thanks for your help everyone.
    DSCN0020.jpg

    DSCN0019.jpg

    DSCN0018.jpg

    DSCN0021.jpg
    My System
    Pre/Pro - Integra DTR 40.2
    Amplifier -Parasound 2205a
    Paradigm Studio 60s V5 Mains
    Paradigm Studio 590 V5 Center
    Paradigm 20s - rear ( Wanted)
    SUB - SVS PB12-NSD
    LG PK250 60inch Plasma
  • Jstas
    Jstas Posts: 14,804
    edited January 2007
    The wattage of the amp's output has nothing to do with the wattage it uses for input. Just because the sub's amp is rated at putting out 100 watts doesn't mean it's draw is 100 watts. The speaker uses DC power, the amp uses AC power as input and outputs DC power. There are transformers that step up voltage and step down voltage inside that amplifier plus it's own inverter circuit to convert the 120V AC house current to DC current.
    Expert Moron Extraordinaire

    You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you!
  • audiobliss
    audiobliss Posts: 12,518
    edited January 2007
    Is that a 90's Camry?
    Jstas wrote: »
    Simple question. If you had a cool million bucks, what would you do with it?
    Wonder WTF happened to the rest of my money.
    In Use
    PS3, Yamaha CDR-HD1300, Plex, Amazon Fire TV Gen 2
    Pioneer Elite VSX-52, Parasound HCA-1000A
    Klipsch RF-82ii, RC-62ii, RS-42ii, RW-10d
    Epson 8700UB

    In Storage
    [Home Audio]
    Rotel RCD-02, Yamaha KX-W900U, Sony ST-S500ES, Denon DP-7F
    Pro-Ject Phono Box MKII, Parasound P/HP-850, ASL Wave 20 monoblocks
    Klipsch RF-35, RB-51ii

    [Car Audio]
    Pioneer Premier DEH-P860MP, Memphis 16-MCA3004, Boston Acoustic RC520
  • neokeelo
    neokeelo Posts: 168
    edited January 2007
    Yea it is a 93
    My System
    Pre/Pro - Integra DTR 40.2
    Amplifier -Parasound 2205a
    Paradigm Studio 60s V5 Mains
    Paradigm Studio 590 V5 Center
    Paradigm 20s - rear ( Wanted)
    SUB - SVS PB12-NSD
    LG PK250 60inch Plasma
  • MacLeod
    MacLeod Posts: 14,358
    edited January 2007
    LMAO!!!

    Dude, that is the most ghetto thing Ive ever seen.
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
    08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st

    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D
  • BaggedLancer
    BaggedLancer Posts: 6,371
    edited January 2007
    haha that looks hilarious, hide the wires and your good to go.

    I think im gonna try and put some velodynes in my g35 :)
  • Red230SX
    Red230SX Posts: 211
    edited January 2007
    Turn the sub around so the driver faces the rear, that way the wires are hidden and if anyone asks why you have a home theater sub in your car you can say "I'm on my way home from Best buy" :)
  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited January 2007
    Person A - neokeelo
    Person B - vawakmonster

    Person A. Send your home sub to Person B
    Person B. Send your car sub to Person A.

    Problem Solved. That was easy. :)



    Love IT Funny You got 100% on this reply.

    Speakers
    Carver Amazing Fronts
    CS400i Center
    RT800i's Rears
    Sub Paradigm Servo 15

    Electronics
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
    Parasound Halo A23
    Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
    Pioneer 79Avi DVD
    Sony CX400 CD changer
    Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
    WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR


  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited January 2007
    neokeelo wrote:
    Success!

    I did not spend one penny and I got exactly what I wanted.

    I used the powered Jensen sub and my inverter to rig this up. The Inverter is running off the cigarette adaptor. The back of the inverter says to connect directly to the battery when using over 150 watts, but since this is only a 100 watt sub I think it will be ok. After letting it play for maybe 15 mins, I touched it and it was not even warm. I wired the sub into the front pre outs using 2 RCA cables. These pics are from tonight. I will eventually get these wires hidden and out of sight. Now I just need to get something to hold the sub in place. It sounds totally different now. The sub does not blow you away by any means but it does complete the sound stage nicely. Thanks for your help everyone.


    The inverter on the cigarette adapter is ok if it is working ok right now. The 150 watts over will draw more then 15amps, the cigarette fuse would blow if it drawn over 150 watts.

    Speakers
    Carver Amazing Fronts
    CS400i Center
    RT800i's Rears
    Sub Paradigm Servo 15

    Electronics
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
    Parasound Halo A23
    Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
    Pioneer 79Avi DVD
    Sony CX400 CD changer
    Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
    WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR


  • Jstas
    Jstas Posts: 14,804
    edited January 2007
    Now that I can see the pictures, I agree with MacLeod. Ghetto. With a capital hetto.
    Expert Moron Extraordinaire

    You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you!
  • 1996blackmax
    1996blackmax Posts: 2,436
    edited January 2007
    If you try hard enough you could have this setup....


    IMG_2426.JPG

    IMG_2421.JPG
    Alpine: CDA-7949
    Alpine: PXA-H600
    Alpine: CHA-S624, KCA-420i, KCA-410C
    Rainbow: CS 265 Profi Phase Plug / SL 165
    ARC Audio: 4150-XXK / 1500v1-XXK
    JL Audio: 10W6v2 (x2)
    KnuKonceptz
    Second Skin
  • ntculenuff
    ntculenuff Posts: 1,146
    edited January 2007
    wow are all those wires actually going some where? it looks like a wire spewed in the trunk :)
    Speakers:
    Definitive BP7001sc mains
    Definitive C/L/R 3000 center
    Polk RT800i's rears
    Definitive supercube I Sub
    Audio:
    Onkyo TX-NR3010
    Emotiva XPA five Gen 3
    OPPO BDP-103 CD, SACD, DVD-A
    Video:
    Panasonic TC-P65ZT60
    OPPO BDP-103 Bluray
    Directv x's 2
  • BaggedLancer
    BaggedLancer Posts: 6,371
    edited January 2007
    haha blackmax i hope that isn't your car :)

    That looks rediculous and is COMPLETELY unsafe. Look at all the exposed wires :)
  • 1996blackmax
    1996blackmax Posts: 2,436
    edited January 2007
    I am afraid that it is................ :(

























    j/k :D... While that car is a Maxima, it is not one of the Maximas I own. This was the gear I had in my 4th Gen Maxima :).

    Not as nice as the install with all those wires showing though.....


    482517_197_full.jpg



    482517_222_full.jpg
    Alpine: CDA-7949
    Alpine: PXA-H600
    Alpine: CHA-S624, KCA-420i, KCA-410C
    Rainbow: CS 265 Profi Phase Plug / SL 165
    ARC Audio: 4150-XXK / 1500v1-XXK
    JL Audio: 10W6v2 (x2)
    KnuKonceptz
    Second Skin
  • neokeelo
    neokeelo Posts: 168
    edited January 2007
    I'm not that big into car audio. I'm a home theater guy myself. :cool:

    This setup works and sounds great for a poor college student like me. :D
    My System
    Pre/Pro - Integra DTR 40.2
    Amplifier -Parasound 2205a
    Paradigm Studio 60s V5 Mains
    Paradigm Studio 590 V5 Center
    Paradigm 20s - rear ( Wanted)
    SUB - SVS PB12-NSD
    LG PK250 60inch Plasma
  • 1996blackmax
    1996blackmax Posts: 2,436
    edited January 2007
    You may want to give the advice that was given about turning the sub around a shot. Many times in a car's trunk you get better bass response with the subwoofer pointed towards the back of the car.
    Alpine: CDA-7949
    Alpine: PXA-H600
    Alpine: CHA-S624, KCA-420i, KCA-410C
    Rainbow: CS 265 Profi Phase Plug / SL 165
    ARC Audio: 4150-XXK / 1500v1-XXK
    JL Audio: 10W6v2 (x2)
    KnuKonceptz
    Second Skin
  • black magic
    black magic Posts: 669
    edited November 2007
  • 1996blackmax
    1996blackmax Posts: 2,436
    edited November 2007
    Very nice amplifiers, I highly recommend them.
    Alpine: CDA-7949
    Alpine: PXA-H600
    Alpine: CHA-S624, KCA-420i, KCA-410C
    Rainbow: CS 265 Profi Phase Plug / SL 165
    ARC Audio: 4150-XXK / 1500v1-XXK
    JL Audio: 10W6v2 (x2)
    KnuKonceptz
    Second Skin