Getting inside Polk 9a's

xoaphexox

Hello everyone. First time poster. I am pretty active over at AudioKarma where I go by the same handle, but I noticed quite a few of you have "Polk Guru" titles, and there doesnt seem to be any Polk Gurus at AK.

Here is my question:

Today I noticed that two of the 4" drivers in one of my Polk 9a's (1976ish) aren't working. I tried unscrewing the piezo, the offending 4", the passive radiator, etc and just could not get inside the box to check the wiring, crossover, or any of that stuff. There was a thick grey goo cementing the speakers to the box. I was afraid to damage the speakers by applying brute force.

Can anyone here please help me? Is there a trick to this? I would hate to have to butcher these vintage rarities simply because two of the four 4" drivers in it arent working. It is probably a simple fix like a loose wire or corroded solder point.

Thanks everyone. Happy Holidays.
Rob

F1nut

Hey now, I'm over at AK......at times.

Anyway, your Model 9 is a bit of a rarity, but not worth much money. It's my understanding that trying to remove the grills is next to impossible, wouldn't know where to begin with the drivers, sorry.

Polk65

Welcome aboard.

By chance I found one method for removing these grilles. Model 9's were in the trunk of my car for half a days journey in 110 degree summer heat. When I arrived home I noticed the cabinets were very warm but the veneer had not come undone. On a hunch I gently pulled on the grille corners and the glue had warmed enough allowing the grilles to detach. After a quick peek I put the grilles back on. Later I thought of another possible way would be to lay the cabinets (grille face down) on a hot sidewalk for a few minutes.

If I had to get inside these I would aim for the passive radiator. Remove the screws and use a tiny flat head screwdriver to gently chip away the cement near the screw holes. After awhile, some gentle prying and/or taps against the sides of the screw holes may be enough to free it.

I think Russ once mentioned the manufacturer of the drivers.

A brochure is here: http://polksda.com/srsad.shtml

Photo with the PR removed:

xoaphexox

I guess why mine are the 9a instead of the 9 is that my grilles are quite easy to remove - they are just that plastic-knob material that snaps together like hard velcro, so the grilles werent the hard part. Its getting the drivers out that are difficult. Also, my tweeters look different than the ones shown in the photo you attached. Thanks for that!

As for the F1 nut that is posting here and on AK adamantly trying to get me to think my speakers are pieces of garbage, I will have you know that I have already entertained a $300 offer for them. I don't understand why you cant be happy for someone else and must try to point out only the negative aspects of my situation.

I will try to use a flathead to pry the passive radiator off and see if I can fix what is probably the loose wiring. If I get these babies singing again, I would like to keep them around. I like their small footprint. I dont have much room in my townhouse for large floorstanders, but I disagree with the shallow sound of the cubes and bookshelf speakers I have auditioned.

F1nut

YOU asked for opinions, good or bad, so what are you bitching about? Besides that, all I said was that by all accounts they sound awful, that they aren't worth much money and that their only real value is as a collector's item, the same thing someone else on AK told you. Hell, even the Polk Audio guys will tell you they don't sound very good. As I'm not in the habit of sugar coating things, I'm sure as hell not going to say they sound good when they don't just to make you feel better.

Since you like them with two drivers not working, I quess it can only get better for you. However, I'd grab that $300.00 and laugh all the way to the bank.

Good luck to you.

RuSsMaN

Wow, I was going to offer up some replacement drivers.

The consensus is, for the most part - major cool factor, but at the end of the day BAD sound. We can try and sugar coat it for you next time.

Cheers,
Russ

ohskigod

Xoa,

plain and simple fact is, your going to get honesty here on Club Polk, its how we roll. if you take offense, then please understand that is not the intention.

if someone offerred you 300.00 for those speakers, then god bless. they are rare. sad thing is, I've been to 2 major Polkfests with 9's in attendance. Hell, the pair we donated to Polk in 05 were in my house for like a month. I never listened to them. (because the binding posts, or lack thereof, was a pain in the arse)

anyway,
kindly do not shoot someone down for giving an honest answer to a question. Its just poor form, other than that, welcome to Club Polk

TroyD

I'd take the 300 and RUN.

As has been said, high cool factor but even the folks at Polk will tell you that the sound left much to be desired. The unofficial story is actually pretty funny.

BDT

amulford

Ooh Ooh Ooh, go on take the money and run...

xoaphexox

Sorry for taking offense guys. This Polk forum will toughen up my fragile personal opinions.

I will start packing them for their journey.

Polk65

I was thinking of a puller or reverse clamp, sort of how some automotive tools work and drew a blank. Give this a try. Carefully chip away the visible cement near a screw hole, slip in the head of a nail that fits snug, then attach a vise-grips and gently pull. Repeat.

jakelm

I wonder if a soldering gun would melt the cement enough to take it out.

I have done this with tough glue.

xoaphexox

I was able to pop the passive radiator by simply applying a minute amount of force with a flathead screwdriver. The last time I tried to get inside I was so gentle that I figured it was glued really well. It turned out not to be the case.

I fixed the two drivers by simply resoldering the connections. Here are some images.





Can anyone tell me which post is + and which is - ?
I even have the owners manual and it doesnt say!

Polk65

Remove the passive radiator again and follow the white wire. This is negative which I believe is screw #1.

That's a nice looking pair. You got off lucky with just resoldering. Were the wires frayed? I think the Model 9 tweeter is from Motorola and your 9a looks like a Peerless.

xoaphexox

The wires werent frayed that I saw. The issue appeared to be only on the front-facing 4" driver. The two little wires that attached to the speaker posts from the cone were cold joints. I had to melt the solder and pull them through a little bit, and then tin the rest of the speaker posts with solder. It was tricky, I had to keep testing continuity from the wire to the cone because for some reason it just wasn't happening easily.

Pardon my ignorance, but what do you mean about Motorolla/Peerless?

(edit) I re-read your post and didnt see the word 'tweeter' the first time. I think the motorolla one is the one that looks more like a horn?

Polk65

correct