Natalie p's

brijenjas

I've decided to build the Natalie P's in bookshelf size; http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=13969&page=1&pp=35

This is my first attempt at speaker building/assembling , I would appreciate any insights you experienced builders can give me.

I will be using the Parts Express finished cabinets.

Some questions;

1. I have a 1/4" straight router bit, can I use this or should I buy an "up spiral" bit?

2.What kind of wire do you use for the crossover? stranded? solid? 14 gauge 16 gauge?

3.How much damping material should be used, or is this trial and error?

jcaut

I've built a few speakers, so I'll give you my opinions:

1. I think the straight bit will work for you. I usually use a spiral upcut, and it's probably better for this type of work, but if you'll go slow and use multiple, shallow cuts, I think you can get by with the straight bit. A circle cutting jig is almost essential: If you don't have one, get that first.

Those finished PE cabinets are nice, well-built cabinets, and much better than what most inexperienced cabinet builders would be able to build. It's somewhat difficult to make your driver cutouts without scratching up the pre-finished baffles. Some people have had success applying stick-on "shelf paper" -similar to contact paper but not as sticky so that you can remove it- to the baffles first, to protect them, but that didn't work well for me. When I cut through the paper, the edge wanted to lift and catch on the bottom of the router (or circle jig). I ended up scratching the baffles anyway and refinishing them.

2. I doubt that your choice of wire is going to be real critical. I bought a couple of colors of "hookup wire" from Radio Shack - I usually use 16ga, but you could use heavier or lighter, depending on your preference- and that's what I use for connecting the drivers to the crossover, crossover to binding posts, and whatever jumpers I need to use in building the crossover. I use good 4% silver solder.

3. On a popular DIY design like the Natalie P's, you should be able to find some guideline for how much damping and what type to use, then you can probably adjust it to your taste after the speaker is essentially complete. If you were starting from scratch, then I would say it's largely trial and error, but on a popular design, someone who's already built them should be able to give you a good starting point. I'd ask that question on the PE or Madisound boards.

Jason

brijenjas

Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it.

I do plan on getting one of the Jasper circle jigs.


Bri

phoneisbusy

A fellow polkie was planning on building this and decided to sell the kit because he had other projects in the queue. You might want to check to see if it's still available.

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45061&highlight=natalie+p

regards

Dave

brijenjas

Thanks, but he already sold the kit.

http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=22717

jcaut

One other thing I just thought of regarding your router bit: Those baffles are 1" thick, so be sure you've got a long enough bit to cut all the way through.

I still think the straight bit will work, but on deep cuts like that is where the spiral upcut works well because it helps to bring most of the shavings (or dust, when you're dealing with MDF) to the top. I assume that if you've got a router you are familiar with how to use it, but like I said above, just go slow and don't try to cut more than about 1/8" at a time. Be sure to cut your recess for the driver mounting flanges before you cut the hole all the way through.

Jason

brijenjas

jcaut wrote:

don't try to cut more than about 1/8" at a time. Be sure to cut your recess for the driver mounting flanges before you cut the hole all the way through.

Jason

Wow, 1" baffle 6 drivers, 1/8 at a time we're talking a minimum of 48 passes, not including the recesses. My arms are going to be sore;).

I think I'll buy the spiral bit , should be able to do it in half the passes, or am I mistaken, should I only cut 1/8" at a time with the spiral bit?