Circuit breaker amperage help
kenstewart
Posts: 139
Will install MMC 5250s in my son's mustang and have a question on what amp circuit breaker should I use with the following equipment:
- MTX Thunder 684 4-channel amp
- Pioneer 200watt bass tube (internally amplified) ... this is an older tube I just have laying around the house that my son liked from an older car I had it in
So, both the MTX amp and bass tube will connect to battery.
- MTX Thunder 684 4-channel amp
- Pioneer 200watt bass tube (internally amplified) ... this is an older tube I just have laying around the house that my son liked from an older car I had it in
So, both the MTX amp and bass tube will connect to battery.
Eclipse CD8445 HU
Image Dynamics CXS54 Chameleons component setup
Two 8" Image Dynamics ID8D2v.3 subs
MTX MXA6001 amp for subs
MTX MXA3002 2-channel amp for comps
Accumat and Peel-n-Seal
Stinger and Knukoncpetz wiring
Image Dynamics CXS54 Chameleons component setup
Two 8" Image Dynamics ID8D2v.3 subs
MTX MXA6001 amp for subs
MTX MXA3002 2-channel amp for comps
Accumat and Peel-n-Seal
Stinger and Knukoncpetz wiring
Post edited by kenstewart on
Comments
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I'd personally lean towards an inline fuse rather than a circuit breaker.
While breakers do have their place in some car audio installs, if the breaker fails due to corrosion, age, or defect and it doesn't shut off the circuit as intended during overly high draw...potential for fire.
The beauty of the fuse is that you can count on it blowing in a high-draw situation (and it costs less, too) if you have selected one of the right value for your system. Simple, effective, cheap, fail-safe, ideal for a daily driver.
Put the fuse within 18" of the battery. Rating of fuse should be close to that of combined fuse value on the amplifier itself.
I'd only consider a circuit breaker in a system where I knew I would be placing excess draw on the components on a regular basis- "burping" an SPL system at a competition comes to mind, using multiple high-current amplifiers running flat out.
