Need Sub design Guidance

mwb

My 15 year old son has purchased two 10" Subwoofers, for installing into his 1994 Thunderbird with the following spec.

power -1000 watts max
voice coil= 2"
znom= 4 ohms
Fs= 26.9 Hz
SPL= 83.5 dB 2.83v/1m
Vas= 2.39 cu ft.
Qms= 5.23
Qes= .89
Qts= .76
Dual voice coil
Diminsions: A= 10.16", B= 9.69", C= 6.8"

My question is can someone with more knowledge than I help direct us to a proper box design,for this application, as oppose to him just buying whatever box has clear covers with neon lights.

Thanks for the help

Jstas

What kind of subs are they? Do you have a model number?

mwb

the speakers are PYLE PL1090BL, from parts-express.

Jstas

Are you looking for a fancy design or just a box that isn't the usual particle board crap you find in the stores?

mwb

Well i am looking for mainly a box, or any suggestions on where best to install them .

Doesnt have to be fancy , but the best sounding we can get these would be preferred.

Thanks for helping

Jstas

Pyle doesn't seem to have much on these subs. However, since they are 10 inch subs with gigantic magnets, I'd go with a box with at least 1.0 cubic feet of space. Those subs could probably go with 1.2 but going smaller will not harm them the way going too big would.

I would go with sealed right now because porting the enclosures is not much good when they are in a trunk that is not vented into the passenger compartment.

Now I had a 94 Thunderbird too. When I had my single sub, it used a smaller sealed box but I had it up against the rear seat firing sideways in the trunk. There is so much sound deadening in that car that firing them into the rear seat will kill performance. Since the trunk is relativly sealed up, use it's cavernous size. Two 10's will load it up well and the extra space will help them make the noise he is obviously looking for.

Since the subs are so large and the box requirements are large also, make them face the rear of the vehicle with the box up against the back of the rear seat. That will utilize the trunk space well and actually help leave some useable space so he can get to things like the spare tire.

As for how to build it, take measurements. Keep in mind that that trunklid has tension spring bars to keep it open and the box will have to clear them for proper operation. Make the box with dual chambers, one for each sub. It will need the extra bracing. If you keep the internal bracing to a minimum, you can actually make the sub boxes smaller to better utilize space in the trunk.

As far as material goes, for such a large box, forget MDF. It's junk stuff to begin with. Go and get yourself 4x8 sheets of veneer or cabinet grade 3/4" plywood. Use screws and wood glue, not liquid nails or other adhesive, wood glue to hold it together. If you have a biscuit tool, those would do good too in addition to the screws and glue. Do not get the veeneer plywood with the MDF core. It's heavier and not as strong. The reason you want to use that grade is because of how it's made. The glue holding the plys together is evenly spread and there are no voids (no air pockets) in the wood. It's much, much stronger than MDF and it will not flex like MDF.

You'll also need regular old silicone caulking for a bathtub or windows. You will seal the inside joints just like you would a bathtub. DO NOT use it to seal the woofer, the speaker terminal cups are fine. The woofers came with foam or rubber gaskets, use them. If they don't have it, get yourself either camper weatherstripping from the car parts store of 3M Foam Tape and use that for the woofer seal. If you want carpeting, use 3M General Adhesive and carpet the box after all the necessary holes are cut.

As far as shape, square is easy and probably the baest shape sonically. Plus, it allows for the most room behind the subs. Of course, a dual box ends up being rectangular. Or, you could built two seperate single boxes and mount them together.

As far as the size of the box, simple geometry. Design a cube, figure out the dimensions and volume of the cube and build your box to match. You can use datto joints for extra strength if you like but it most cases, butt joints are sufficient. Just make sure you can get the box in and out of the trunk. That T-bird trunk is huge and will suck up alot of stuff but the opening can be a paint to get large stuff in and out of so keep that in mind.

If you are going to be securing this box to the car, be mindful of the place you are **** through. Thegas tank sits right below the back of the trunk. That would be an expensive "oopsie".

Anyhow, I hope that helps out some or at least gives you a place to start looking and/or asking more detailed questions.

mwb

Thanks, for the help. I really appreciate the assistance.

dmk_187

IMO a .75 cf sealed enclosure would be fine, maybe a little smaller depending on if he wants a tight punch like bass, or a shaking bass. i think a 1.0 box would be too big.