Rebuilding SRS - not the usual ?

dkg999
dkg999 Posts: 5,647
edited October 2006 in Vintage Speakers
I have most of 3 pairs of SDA-SRS that were salvaged from previous owners in the cental IA area after the big floods of 1993. One pair was functional with a little work, however the cabinet has been crumbling on the bottom of both speakers and needs rebuilt, the other two pairs the cabinets were trash, however the drivers and cross-overs were OK. This weekend while I was back at my place on the farm, I was looking at how to build my den/office and my electronics tech friend had stopped by when he saw my truck in the driveway. I was working out a wall of shelving that would have space for a large TV, audio/HT equipment, and a pair of SRS's. His suggestion was that since I needed to rebuild the cabinets, why not just make the SRS's built-in's by building new fronts to mount the drivers in and using the exact inner dimensions, possibly having the driver faces about 2" proud of the wall of shelving. I already used one of the old fronts to program my CNC router to cut new fronts to mount the drivers in.

Is it really going to compromise sound quality, performance to make these built-ins with the drivers 2" in front of the wall of shelves and the cabinet enclosures made out of 3" thick MDF?
DKG999
HT System: LSi9, LSiCx2, LSiFX, LSi7, SVS 20-39 PC+, B&K 507.s2 AVR, B&K Ref 125.2, Tripplite LCR-2400, Cambridge 650BD, Signal Cable PC/SC, BJC IC, Samsung 55" LED

Music System: Magnepan 1.6QR, SVS SB12+, ARC pre, Parasound HCA1500 vertically bi-amped, Jolida CDP, Pro-Ject RM5.1SE TT, Pro-Ject TubeBox SE phono pre, SBT, PS Audio DLIII DAC
Post edited by dkg999 on

Comments

  • unc2701
    unc2701 Posts: 3,587
    edited October 2006
    I would think not, but you will lose the ability to adjust the amount of bass by pulling them into the room. So it might take a geting a BFD to retune the bass on them.
    Gallo Ref 3.1 : Bryston 4b SST : Musical fidelity CD Pre : VPI HW-19
    Gallo Ref AV, Frankengallo Ref 3, LC60i : Bryston 9b SST : Meridian 565
    Jordan JX92s : MF X-T100 : Xray v8
    Backburner:Krell KAV-300i
  • madmax
    madmax Posts: 12,434
    edited October 2006
    You could build them to "look" built in but still allow them to be moved if that doesn't work out.
    Vinyl, the final frontier...

    Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D
  • jcaut
    jcaut Posts: 1,849
    edited October 2006
    I don't like the built-in idea, especially on a speaker like that. Just rebuild the cabinets, IMO.

    Jason
  • hoosier21
    hoosier21 Posts: 4,413
    edited October 2006
    you had better be happy with the distance between them because your stuck if you don't. Beyond that point, COOL idea. if you keep the front baffle out in the room 2" or so (like you said) more than the rest of the gear and shelves.
    Dodd - Battery Preamp
    Monarchy Audio SE100 Delux - mono power amps
    Sony DVP-NS999ES - SACD player
    ADS 1230 - Polk SDA 2B
    DIY Stereo Subwoofer towers w/(4) 12 drivers each
    Crown K1 - Subwoofer amp
    Outlaw ICBM - crossover
    Beringher BFD - sub eq

    Where is the remote? Where is the $%#$% remote!

    "I've always been mad, I know I've been mad, like the most of us have...very hard to explain why you're mad, even if you're not mad..."
  • unc2701
    unc2701 Posts: 3,587
    edited October 2006
    I''ve been thinking about it and beyond the point that hoosier makes, I can't think of a better speaker to do this with- they take zero toe-in and are meant to be placed right against the wall. Not many speakers meet that criteria.
    Gallo Ref 3.1 : Bryston 4b SST : Musical fidelity CD Pre : VPI HW-19
    Gallo Ref AV, Frankengallo Ref 3, LC60i : Bryston 9b SST : Meridian 565
    Jordan JX92s : MF X-T100 : Xray v8
    Backburner:Krell KAV-300i
  • obxdiver
    obxdiver Posts: 60
    edited October 2006
    They would become permanent forever. What would you do if you ever move?
    Take the drivers and leave the empty holes? Or leave them?

    I would build the shelving around the speakers. Leave an openeing, or pocket, the exact same size as the speaker cabinet, and slide the speaker into it.