Stripped screw on SRS tweeter

univera
univera Posts: 848
edited October 2006 in Vintage Speakers
To say I'm a bit pissed would be correct. The very last screw of the very last tweeter I was going to remove to replace with the new RDO's has a stripped screw. Must have been done originally or during a replacement at some point. My hex didn't fit immediately. All the others were fine.
I have tried hammering the hex in for a solid fit and turning, only to strip it completely. How the hell do I get this thing out? I tried inserting a Phillips and small flathead to try and get leverage. No deal. I can't exactly go banging around on these...Unreal. The unhandy just got unhandier...
UNIVERA
Historic Charleston SC

2 Channel:
SDA-SRS's RDO tweets
Biamped Anthem 2 SE's w/1970's NOS Siemens CCA's
Anthem Pre 2L w/E.harmonix platinum matched 6H23's
CDP- NAD C 542


HT setup:
AVR: NAD T 773
Rears: Polk LC80i
DVD: Toshiba 3109 dual tray
Subs: Velodyne and M&K
T.V.: Sony KDL-52XBR4 w/Vans Evers Clean Line Jr.
Conditioner: Panamax M5100EX

Master Bedroom Sony 40KDL-XBR3

"I love it when a plan comes together." Hannibal Smith, The A-Team
Post edited by univera on
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Comments

  • madmax
    madmax Posts: 12,434
    edited October 2006
    A few possibilities I see. If the nut holder (in your speaker) has broken loose from the cabinent as is turning then maybe you can grab it with pliers while turning the screw. Otherwise you could buy an easy-out kit which has a drill bit and extractor and unscrew it that way. The only other option is to drill off the head, use a punch against the front of the bolt and pound on it until the screw holder in the back of the wood pops out (and replace with a new one).
    madmax

    Edit: Oh, and the easiest solution if you are lucky. Try several different allen keys, both english and metric, to get a better fit to allow you more leverage. This worked on one of mine the first time I had a problem.
    Vinyl, the final frontier...

    Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D
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  • Skynut
    Skynut Posts: 2,967
    edited October 2006
    Reverse drill bits work pretty good and if they drill a hole than you can use an easy out extractor in the hole.
    Skynut
    SOPA® Founder
    The system Almost there
    DVD Onkyo DV-SP802
    Sunfire Theater Grand II
    Sherbourn 7/2100
    Panamax 5510 power conditioner (for electronics)
    2 PSAudio UPC-200 power conditioners (for amps)
    Front L/R RT3000p (Bi-Wired)
    Center CS1000p (Bi-Wired) (under the television)
    Center RT2000p's (Bi-Wired) (on each side of the television)
    Sur FX1000
    SVS ultra plus 2

    www.ShadetreesMachineShop.com
    Thanks for looking
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  • Emlyn
    Emlyn Posts: 4,535
    edited October 2006
    Maybe take a midwoofer or two off and see if you can push the screw out from behind. The holders have a habit of coming loose if too much force is applied to the screw head. I replaced all the hex head screws in mine with longer brass machine screws. Curiously, doing that seemed to improve the tightness of the sound a little, although that's not the reason I did it. Probably just provided a better seal.
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  • read-alot
    read-alot Posts: 812
    edited October 2006
    Is the screw still tight and the hex stripped?

    Take a Dremel and flat slot its little head for a regular screwdriver.

    If that fails just grind the head off and deal with the remains after you remove the tweeter.
    polkaudio SRS (rdo194 x 8)
    Dodd ELP (separate power supply)
    JC 1 blocks ( strapped )
    Rega Apollo
    MIT (speaker cables) Outlaw (ICs)

    polkaudio SDA2(rdo194x4) (front) polkaudio CRS (rdo194x4)(rear) polkaudio 400i (center)
    B&K 505
    Samsung LCD
    VIP 622
    HSU STF-2
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  • Skynut
    Skynut Posts: 2,967
    edited October 2006
    read-alot wrote:
    Take a Dremel and flat slot its little head for a regular screwdriver.

    Great idea, I have done this in the past.
    Skynut
    SOPA® Founder
    The system Almost there
    DVD Onkyo DV-SP802
    Sunfire Theater Grand II
    Sherbourn 7/2100
    Panamax 5510 power conditioner (for electronics)
    2 PSAudio UPC-200 power conditioners (for amps)
    Front L/R RT3000p (Bi-Wired)
    Center CS1000p (Bi-Wired) (under the television)
    Center RT2000p's (Bi-Wired) (on each side of the television)
    Sur FX1000
    SVS ultra plus 2

    www.ShadetreesMachineShop.com
    Thanks for looking
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  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited October 2006
    Yep, me too.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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  • madmax
    madmax Posts: 12,434
    edited October 2006
    I'd hate to see a dremel next to the driver though. Oh well, I guess its being replaced anyway.
    madmax
    Vinyl, the final frontier...

    Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D
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