Need Help with SRS 2.3TL's
Comments
-
Polk has agreed to exchange the 4 RD198's for 4 RD194's for my 1C's
They are doing this free of charge and they are paying for the shipping in both directions.
Yes, the RD6503's were in a clear plastic bag. There was some kind of plastic base they are supposed to set in, but that did not keep them in place, and when I opened the box, I saw all of the drivers touching each other. Magnets were on top of cones !!!
This of course put scuff marks on the black shinny, sticky surfaces of my new drivers.
Yes, in the past, each driver was in its own box. Cost cuts in action.
But any way, these SDA 2.3TL's sound very sweet now. I am a happy camper
Is it possible to get some links for crossover component replacements?
Thanks guys (and gals). Thats my next project. -
What do you need? I thought I sent you a schematic,,let me know--:)JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
-
I also had a similar problem with drivers shipped from Polk; they are using a plastic blister type package that does not hold the drivers very well and they just slip out; I am surprised they have not had major damage claims.
Glad that you are enjoying your SDA's; DO THE CROSSOVERS!!!!! It will get better....._________________________________________________
***\\\\\........................... My Audio Journey ............................./////***
2008 & 2010 Football Pool WINNER
SOPAThank God for different opinions. Imagine the world if we all wanted the same woman -
OBX, I just sent you a PM.2004 IASCA Spring Break Nationals Champion - Amateur Street
2003 IASCA World Finals Runner Up - Amateur Street
Certified IASCA Judge -
george daniel wrote:What do you need? I thought I sent you a schematic,,let me know--:)
Yes I got the schematics from you but wondering where you guys purchased the components online. Thats all. I have all the needed values from you via email.
Thanks.
Steve
HTrookie....you have a very nice Basement setup -
My current 2.3 upgrade has the caps/resistors coming from Sonicraft,they are somewhat more expensive than the Solen Pb series that can be obtained from Partsconnexion (you may want to check my spelling),both offer online service.JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
-
www.partsconnexion.com
edit: George was faster; I used Solen from this site for my crossovers; yes, I've heard Sonicaps are even better....._________________________________________________
***\\\\\........................... My Audio Journey ............................./////***
2008 & 2010 Football Pool WINNER
SOPAThank God for different opinions. Imagine the world if we all wanted the same woman -
You'll find links to various parts sites in this thread.
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31294 -
BobMcG wrote:You'll find links to various parts sites in this thread.
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31294
Thank very much.
Steve -
Ah, quit all the whining. Be grateful that Polk even sells parts for speakers, some of which are over 20 years old.
Go with Sonicaps, period.
F1I plan for the future. - F1Nut -
TroyD wrote:Ah, quit all the whining. Be grateful that Polk even sells parts for speakers, some of which are over 20 years old.
Go with Sonicaps, period.
F1
OK I have ordered the following GEN I SoniCaps from Sonic Craft via telephone order.
Again this is for the 2.3TL crossovers. Thanks to George for giving me a schematic.
Total needed for ONE crossover:
NOTE: Where exact values were not available, I will create the exact values with parallel caps shown in parenthesis().
1x 5.8uF cap (4.3uf + 1.5uf 200V)
1x 8uF cap (5uf + 3uf 200V)
1x 16uF cap (15uf + 1uf 200V)
1x 18uF cap (17uf + 1uf 200V)
1x 27uF cap 200V
2x 750pF RelCap RTE 600V (I hope these are OK. They don't sell the silver mica). Can someone tell me if these will be OK or did I screw up here?
See them here http://www.soniccraft.com/relcap_rte_capacitors.htm
2x 22.5 ohm Mills Wirewound 5 watt (MRA5) resistors. (22 ohm + 0.5ohm)
So I doubled the quantity shown above to do both crossovers.
I asked them to make a L/R matched set with 1% tolerance, which takes 1 extra day. Should be here by mid next week.
I will take before and after pictures as was done in the other threads.
I have not seen any pics of the 2.3TL crossover mods, so it should be a good addition to the Club Polk forums. I will post them soon.
Thanks again for all the replies.
And sorry to be a whiner. I'll stop that.;) -
Just replaced the caps and resistors on my brother's 2.3 tl's, have fun,be sure to replace those poly's.JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
-
george daniel wrote:Just replaced the caps and resistors on my brother's 2.3 tl's, have fun,be sure to replace those poly's.
Polk sent me 10 of each !!!
They are a fantastic speaker company when it comes to customer support.:D -
I have been wondering where my caps are. As of today, I still have not received them.
I ordered them via telephone direct from Sonic Craft.
I have been patiently waiting for them to arrive.
So I called them today.
Ha Ha. They have no record of the order !!!
They took my address, credit card info, gave me a total cost...everything in the original order.
I recognize the person's voice as the same one who took my order almost 2 weeks ago. He did not remember me..
So I had to do it all over again.
I told him again, that these were for a pair of speakers, and I wanted 1% tolerance and a matched Left/Right pair.
We will see. He said he would rush the order this time.
One questions for the experts here:
I removed one of my 2.3TL crossovers from the cabinet, and examined what I need to do whn I get my caps.
I noticed that the cap in position "C5" was an 8.4uF. But, the schematic that george sent me shows only 8uF.
Should I go with the schematic value, or the physical value in the board?
This is the cap in series with the tweeter #1 output.
Also, can someone look at the 2.3TL schematic and tell me if there is an error in it?
Look at the polarities of the 3 tweeters at connector "P3". I think the +/- signs are wrong on the schematic. All of the + sides are connected to the black input wire. Is this wrong or am I just a dumb ace who don't know what Polk was doing for SDA crossovers?
George, you sent me the schematic. Can you look at it?
Also, when I opened the 15" radiator, I saw the crossover board was just hanging by one clip, and one of the black wires had come loose from the big 16mH coil mounted to the back of the cabinet.
This was the black wire coming from the "P" connection near the "L2" coil of the crossover board.
What would this have caused to my sound?
Re-connecting I did not hear any differeance.
As I posted earlier, I will take good pictures of my re-build project just as George posted for his 2.3's.
BTW. After 2 weeks, these new RD-0198's are the sheet. They sound very very nice compared to the SL3000's. I have played them everyday since installation to speed up the break in period. -
Don't worry, everybody makes a mistake once in awhile. I've ordered a lot of stuff from them and Elliot has always been on top of it. If you order as much as I do, he'll remember you too.
Go with the 8uF value.
The schematic is 100% correct, Polk uses black or blue for positive and green or white for negative, it's the Polk way.
You should have heard a difference, can't say why you didn't. You might want to check the continuity of the wire and inductor.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
My crossover upgrades are complete
Please see this post
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45479
Thanks for all your help
Steve