Jeep Owners

ohskigod

I over heated mine pretty bad once. It did nothing to the engine whatsoever. It lasted another 6 years with no ill effects. I think that is what Bliss meant. as I said, you can beat the snot out of that engine and still have it run. just maintain it, oil changes, tune up etc. sure, an alternater might go, or stupid stuff, but the engine itself is a tank.

Dkg, are you kidding me? I NEVER saw an I6 run smooth. Ticks, pings, and Piston slap are the rules of the day. Like I said, not the most refined engine in the planet. SUpposedly, most of those piston slap issues were ironed out in the post 2000 I6's.

Bob, just get the I6 dude, dont look back

audiobliss

ohskigod wrote:

Bob, just get the I6 dude, dont look back

Ditto. Then, when you get it jacked up 8" riding on 35" mudders and you feel the need for some more power, there are plenty of available kits to make that 4.0L baby a 4.2, 4.4, and, if I'm not mistaken, even a 4.6L engine. That's what I'm looking forward to!

ohskigod

audiobliss wrote:

No, I'm the idiot who redlined it and made it spew out all its coolant (well, the leaky radiator helped with that endeavor, too). That's definitely in support of the I6. I'd say that little event really proves it's a stout engine. IMO, it went beyond the call of duty putting up with my abuse like that.

watch for a sticky thermostat too, I had that issue. The Cherokee allways runs on the hot side, but with no ill effects. when Mine got a little warm in traffic and whatnot, all I had to do was turn on the bi level vent. even if I was bilevelling airconditioning, the engine still cooled off, which seemed wierd. this was handy to know for towing and heavy traffic use. Maybe my radiator was a little goofy, I know you said yours has a leak.

Also, that truck can do 100 (I got pulled over doing 95 when I bought mine new, I didnt even know I was going that fast) Keep in mind that while the Cherokee will go that speed, it wasnt designed from the offset to HANDLE at that speed. watch your arse brother.

audiobliss

Yeah, my thermostat got replaced a good while back, and the radiator has since gotten replaced, too.

Like your little discovery, my friend and I found that when my Jeep starts to warm up, you can pop it in neutral and rev it up to about 2000, and you can almost immediately see the temp start to drop.

Yeah, I've often wondered just how many times I'd roll if I had to swerve to miss something doing 90+. Wouldn't be pretty, for sure. But it's amazing how well the vehicle handles considering it's an suv with as much ground clearance as it has. There's this s-curve close to the house that I like to fly through, and so far I've gotten up to 67; that's pretty fast for an SUV in tight turns!

ohskigod wrote:

watch your arse brother

If I did that as much as I watch for cops, I'd be in pretty good shape!

ND13

Bliss,

Dude, you need to start thinking about what you're doing with that Jeep and your admitted driving habits. I don't want to have to start a thread asking why we haven't heard from AB in a week or two because you screwed up and rolled your Jeep. We'd know something was wrong even if you were not to post for 3 days much less a week or two.

BE CAREFUL....I know you THINK you know how to drive like a Nascar pro, but let me tell ya something, that Jeep ain't no sports car, much less a racecar. And you're not Jeff Gordon or Jr.

audiobliss

Thanks for the concern, Noel, and I must say it is well warranted. I've given my driving habits thought several times. My aforementioned friend and I have always had a thoroughly good time at the wheel, and we've both had our fair share of close calls, and I'm sure we place quite a draw on heaven's supply of guardian angels. It gets easy to think that won't happen to me, but it really can, as my friend just found out. He called me last Sunday afternoon and said he just totalled his BMW that morning. Now, it's a late 80's BMW, and it's a wonder it was still running, and the wreck really was *just* bad enough to 'total' the car (though he's going to fix it), but it does wake you up and make you think (no one involved in the wreck were the slightest bit hurt, btw).

What weighs even more heavily on my mind is the abuse the Jeep is going through. I love that car, and I really don't plan on selling it *ever*. It pains me to think about it, but everytime I get behind the wheel I really am killing it. I mean, there's not been half a dozen times I've started it up since I've had these past three years that it's not seen redline. I've decided to cut back a bit for the car itself (and cost of gas and tires!) if for no other reason.

You're right about the vehicle's limited abilities, and mine, too. Just about weekly I'm amazed how pitiful a driver I am when I make some stupid mistake. It's a wonder I'm still around, really. I am fully aware that I'm not a great driver, but I'm not sure I remember that too well when the radio's playing and the adrenaline's pumping.

Anyhoo, hopefully I'll manage to muster enough self-control to change my driving habits, as I really want to.

Sorry for the derail, bobman.

bobman1235

Man. In my 10+ years of driving experience, I think I've redlined a car ONCE, and it was when I was runing for my life from a road rage incident (not my rage, someone else's, who decided to chase me). I dont' even know how you do that every time you drive....

audiobliss

Really? I don't see how a driving enthusiast could refrain from redlining it. I mean, I'm not talking redlining it in fourth all the time. I've only done that twice. I'm talking nail it at the light when that pesky Integra pulls up beside you and redlining in it 1st and maybe 2nd when the light turns green. I mean, I thought everyone did that!

EDIT - I have NOT redlined it in fourth. If that were possible, I can't imagine how fast you'd be going. I should have said redlined it in 3rd.

jdhdiggs

Looking for a bit of help, left rear lights keep going out. Replaced the bulbs, sockets, and neutral selector switch and they still blow in under 3 hrs of operation-Possibly everytime I shift out of 2WD. Any ideas?

92 Cherokee Limited.... Left rear lights seem to be integrated into the towing electronics.

audiobliss

Right rear lights being...brake lights? Back up lights? Turn signal lights? All of the above?

I certainly have no diagnostic ability, but seems like you've got the possibilities covered except for a wiring problem somewhere.

jdhdiggs

All of them.... I think the turn light might still work. Break and reverse are definately gone on 3hr old bulbs and new sockets and NSS.

And its the left side, had a brain ****.

ND13

You've got a short in the wiring somewhere that probably rubs against some metal in just the right situation....most likely.

audiobliss

ND13 wrote:

You've got a short in the wiring somewhere that probably rubs against some metal in just the right situation....most likely.

Hey, I was right! I can't believe it!!

:D

John in MA

dkg999 wrote:

The quick rule on how to buy a Jeep 4.0L inline six cylinder motor, new or used ............. if it idles smoothly it's a piece of junk Only buy the ones that idle rough (which is most of them)

I've never heard that before. A 4.0 that idles smoothly just means the ignition, TPS, and IAC are all in good shape. I'm working hard on getting mine to purr. Very hard.

4.0's can have rear cylinder wrist pin knock, piston slap, and noisy lifters as pretty much normal. If you end up with rod knock or main bearing knock have it looked at pronto. You can also get a knock from loose bolts holding the torque converter to the flex plate. Fix that, too.

Upgrade options are 4.5, 4.6, and then up. The 4.0 engine is actually a destroked AMC 4.2, done that way for more top end power. By putting the guts of a 4.2 into a 4.0 you get a 4.5. But that's not a solid combination. If you do that, plus a little shaving a boring, you get a 4.6 which pretty good. You can keep machining and get it up to 4.7, 4.8 and so on but it gets a little hairy.

I don't know about the XJ, but ZJ's use a complicated relay controller for trailer wiring. Something could be funky in there. Post on Jeepforum or NAXJA.

ohskigod

ND13 wrote:

You've got a short in the wiring somewhere that probably rubs against some metal in just the right situation....most likely.

this seems right, or your getting water somewhere in there wreaking havoc. pop that whole light housing and look back as far as you can for anything wierd. From what I remember, popping the whole light housing should be a cakewalk.

ND13

The only issue that I can recall with the 4.0 I-6 in the Cherokees was the crankshaft sensor in, I believe, a certain run of engines between 1995-1996. Other than that, nothing major, ever...that I recall. I've sold Jeeps since 1994.

jdhdiggs

Yeah, I've checked the housing, it has to be further up the chain (Especially since it practically lives in the garage). Does anyone have a good info site on how the put the tow electricals in? I think the error is in that and the wiring guide is not in the manual and I'd prefer to not just start digging around.

bobman1235

Just wanna throw out a special thanks to Noel (ND13) for going out of his way and giving me a little extra dealer insight on my potential purchase.

dkg999

Out of many Jeep inline 6's that I have been around, and it is also true with the Ford 300 ci inline 6 ............ if they purr like a kitten at idle, they don't go the distance. Not sure why, and really don't care.

One of the contributing factors to the longevity of these motors is the extra oil capacity it takes to bring the long oil pan up to the right level. More oil stays cleaner, suspends more dirt, and carries away more heat. A friend of mine modified his 1992 Dodge Dakota V6 to use 8 quarts of oil via an extreme duty kit that Dodge supplied for that motor when used in other parts of the world. He has changed the oil every 3k to 4k miles, and that truck has a documented and verified 600,000 plus miles on it with very little engine problems. The engine has never been out of the truck. A lot of other parts have been replaced though

John in MA

If you're running most '90s Jeep engines, you can use an oil filter sold for 5.0 Ford. Twice the capacity.

ohskigod

jdhdiggs wrote:

Yeah, I've checked the housing, it has to be further up the chain (Especially since it practically lives in the garage). Does anyone have a good info site on how the put the tow electricals in? I think the error is in that and the wiring guide is not in the manual and I'd prefer to not just start digging around.

James, does your jeep have a seperate brake light (red) and turn signal (yellow) in the rear light housings? (i.e., the turn signal and brake light is NOT the same light?) If so, I know you need a special (and pricey at 75.00-100.00 bucks) adapter to have your trailer lights be right. If someone installed yours without it and you have the seperate lights and did something creative to overcome the seperate light issue, I'll bet thats where your short/wiring issue is.

When I found out about the adapter issue and just had it done professionally. wound up being good money spent.

ND13

bobman1235 wrote:

Just wanna throw out a special thanks to Noel (ND13) for going out of his way and giving me a little extra dealer insight on my potential purchase.

No problemo!!!


BTW, the Ford 300 ci I-6 is probably one of the best engines ever built, period. I put 2 through the ringer and they still ran like a top with well over 200k HARD teenager miles on them. Got great mileage, too.

jdhdiggs

ohskigod wrote:

James, does your jeep have a seperate brake light (red) and turn signal (yellow) in the rear light housings? (i.e., the turn signal and brake light is NOT the same light?) If so, I know you need a special (and pricey at 75.00-100.00 bucks) adapter to have your trailer lights be right. If someone installed yours without it and you have the seperate lights and did something creative to overcome the seperate light issue, I'll bet thats where your short/wiring issue is.

When I found out about the adapter issue and just had it done professionally. wound up being good money spent.

Yup, their all seperate. It looks like it was at least the correct kit from the install. I'm just wondering were the "end" of the kit is so I can pull the whole damn thing out. I'll take some picks and see if something pops out to you.

nadams

John in MA wrote:

If you're running most '90s Jeep engines, you can use an oil filter sold for 5.0 Ford. Twice the capacity.

Any problems with reduction of oil pressure due to the larger filter?

faster100

most inline 6's are pretty damm good.. I have had several old nova's in the 76 -79 years and the 250 straight 6 was hard to kill, i ran one real low in oil where it was knocking and not running to well, topped it off and it was fine again.. this was when i was 19 or 20, lifters ticking is common in these motors also..

jdhdiggs

I hated my I-6 in my '65 mustang. Still wish I had the car though...

VR3

audiobliss wrote:

Really? I don't see how a driving enthusiast could refrain from redlining it. I mean, I'm not talking redlining it in fourth all the time. I've only done that twice. I'm talking nail it at the light when that pesky Integra pulls up beside you and redlining in it 1st and maybe 2nd when the light turns green. I mean, I thought everyone did that!

EDIT - I have NOT redlined it in fourth. If that were possible, I can't imagine how fast you'd be going. I should have said redlined it in 3rd.

AB...

Thats hilarious. I laugh at people that do that... lol

audiobliss

Then laugh away, bubba. I laugh at the folks like you who have no idea what a joy driving can be.

As for the CPS (crankshaft position sensor) in the 4.0's, it is a problem in that you have to replace it regularly (every few years or so). I've had mine go bad on me once so far. When it goes, everything shuts off and you have to A) be towed, or whip a new sensor out of your back pocket and replace it on the spot. Most Jeepin' enthusiasts, it seems, carry one around in their Jeep all the time so they can replace on the spot when it goes bad.

John in MA

nadams wrote:

Any problems with reduction of oil pressure due to the larger filter?

Same pressure specs as the half-size stocker. Mine didn't change a bit. The MotorCraft FL-1A is a pretty good filter, too. Purolator Pure1 guts in a standard Purolator can.

Both my cranshsaft position sensor and cam position sensor are all original. Been keeping my finger's crossed since I got it. Throttle postion sensor probably needs replacing, though.

ND13

Bob
How'd the test drive go???