alternator going nuts!

ilikesound
ilikesound Posts: 355
edited September 2006 in Car Audio & Electronics
ok, here's the lowdown on the setup: '00 honda accord ex V6... headend: alpine cda 9657. as for speakers, i have two pairs of polk speakers being powered by a 4 channel polk amp. i also have a JL W3 being powered by another polk 2 ch. amp. what's happening is im hearing a humming sound possibly being picked up by the alternator going into the speakers somehow. like a high pitched whine... everytime i accelerate, i hear it going weeeee like a goddamn spaceship. ive taken all preventive measures possible to avoid this problem (seperation of power and rca, wires, etc) and still hear it. can anyone tell me how to solve this futuristic whip?

_also, my battery and alternator keep failing, and i know its the stereo. question is, how to run two amps and all that good stuff while still keeping the electrical aspect of the car intact and functioning fine without buying a battery every 4 months?

bwaa, thanks for the unload and responses!:confused:
At Home:
Panasonic 42'' TC-L42U12 LCD
Pioneer VSX-80TXV
Toshiba HD-XA2
Sony PS3 - psn "metalguitars"
Xbox 360 - gamertag "giggidygiggidy"
Panamax 4300EX
Polk RTi8's
Polk CSi3's
Polk FXi3's. (x2)
Martin Logan Dynamo (x2)
Audioquest interconnects and wires.

Away From Home:
JVC HDR-50
stock system in new car for now:(
Post edited by ilikesound on

Comments

  • exalted512
    exalted512 Posts: 10,735
    edited September 2006
    For your electrical system, that is very abnormal. Polk's 4004 and 3002 arent going to pull enough power to make your alternator and battery fail. I would get an Optima Red Top, the biggest one thatll fit in your car and a good alternator. Also, upgrade your factory wiring with some 4awg. Put 4awg straight from your alt to battery. Ground your battery directly to the frame and ground the engine block directly to the frame(theres usually a ground bolt by the alternator that you can use for that).

    As far as your hum goes, its usually 1 of 2 things...ground or RCAs. Do you have an extra set of RCAs you can run over the seats directly from the radio to the amp? If so, try that, if it goes away you know you need to reroute/get new RCAs. If not, try regrounding it somewhere else. Dont use a bolt. Scrape off paint and put 3+ screws in it.
    -Cody
    Music is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it
  • Dennis Gardner
    Dennis Gardner Posts: 4,861
    edited September 2006
    Sounds like you've got a battery drain taking your alternator and battery down. Its not a direct short or anything like that, but I had the same issue with my wifes car the last couple of months and it took down 2 batteries and an alternator with it. Yours could be due to your system's install or something totally unrelated not turning off with your ignition. Mine is happening on 2 different circuits, the door locks or radio fuses are the culprit right now. I didn't even notice it was a problem until the battery ran down during 2 different vacation weeks coming home to a dead car.
    HT Optoma HD25 LV on 80" DIY Screen, Anthem MRX 300 Receiver, Pioneer Elite BDP 51FD Polk CS350LS, Polk SDA1C, Polk FX300, Polk RT55, Dual EBS Adire Shiva 320watt tuned to 17hz, ICs-DIY Twisted Prs, Speaker-Raymond Cable

    2 Channel Thorens TD 318 Grado ZF1, SACD/CD Marantz 8260, Soundstream/Krell DAC1, Audio Mirror PP1, Odyssey Stratos, ADS L-1290, ICs-DIY Twisted , Speaker-Raymond Cable
  • hondahirny
    hondahirny Posts: 19
    edited September 2006
    I used to deal with alternator whine more with two-way radio, but this should still apply...

    All the other advice with checking your wiring/RCAs is great. It's recommended that amplifier ground wires be kept as short as possible. I would certainly check that stuff out. Once you've tried running a new set of RCA's and you're still getting alternator whine, then read on.

    In the past, I've added small "filter capacitors" between the power and ground wiring going to whatever device i was hooking up. By adding a relatively small cap (perhaps ~4700uF) between the red (+) wire going to your amp and (in the case of car audio), chassis ground, you can help to filter the voltage ripple created by the alternator. Now, i'd imaginge that audio amps would filter this stuff internally just fine, but it might be worth a try. You never know how this noise is getting filtered by your components.

    To add to this, it's possible that the alternator whine is affecting your head unit, which may be causing it to output the alternator whine on your RCA's. If that's the case, you'd have to have a filter cap on the power supply wire to your head unit.

    I don't want you to start ripping apart your dash and start putting little blue caps everywhere, but i have seen those little guys help a lot with 50W two-way radios, which aren't really much different than audio amps. Just a little higher in frequency :D

    Ideally, you could install a cap like this:

    http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102508&cp=2032058.2032230.2032267&parentPage=family

    It's 5 bucks and you'd need 3 of them to be thorough. You can install one each on your amps and one on the head unit. The cap can be hooked up right at the + and - terminals of each amp. You can just shove the capacitor leads in there along with your power cable for the intial testing. With this type of capacitor, you have to observe correct polarity, or the cap will burn up, pop it's top, and start spewing noxious fumes everywhere (not kidding). The hard one would be to put it in with the head unit. You can connect the positive end of the cap to the power wire of the head unit and the negative end to your ground wire. This would help filter the juice going to your HU.

    Again, all this stuff should be a last resort. I'm running my 99 Civic without any extra filters and i get absolutely no whine in my system, which is mostly Polk stuff like yours.

    If you need more info on alternator whine, a google search on the topic might help as well. Hunting down noise can be quite a challenge.
    1999 Honda Civic LX - 105 gerbils at the flywheel!
    Sony CDX-GT100 Head Unit
    Rockford something or other 6.5" in the front. I'm taking donations for MMC6500's!
    Polk Momo MMC690 6x9's in rear
    Polk Momo c300.2 amp via 4ga. and a 1.5 Farad stiffy :eek:
    Polk db804 8" Subs x 2, in sealed box.
  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited September 2006
    My suggestion go to a Junk Yard pull a old Honda Alternator, get that one rebuilt by a Alternator / Starter shop. Do not exchange it for anything, you what this one back. Replace battery for a fresh 72 month battery, then replace it EVERY 3 years. You may never have a problem again.

    BTW I would also add a large cap to your audio amp. But not before I replaced above equipment.

    Speakers
    Carver Amazing Fronts
    CS400i Center
    RT800i's Rears
    Sub Paradigm Servo 15

    Electronics
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
    Parasound Halo A23
    Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
    Pioneer 79Avi DVD
    Sony CX400 CD changer
    Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
    WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR


  • BaggedLancer
    BaggedLancer Posts: 6,371
    edited September 2006
    I had this problem and it was the RCA cables. Sounds like you have something a bit more serious though.