Shielding Components From Power Amps???
hearingimpared
Posts: 21,136
Looking for your opinions and experience here please folks.
Back in the day, we would shield the rest of the components in a system from the amps by:
1. Placing a clean brick on each amp with each amp coupled to an inch thick piece of cinder concrete about 18" X 18";
2. Placing a thin sheet of steel mesh (gounded to neutral) under the shelf over each amp and to the side that other equip was on; and,
3. Keep all other components at least two feet above and to the right of the left amp and the left of the right amp. (I remember reading that in a trade journal somewhere where it had something to do with cutting down the emissions from the amp transformers. Don't know if it really was effective but I did it anyway.)
As things have changed over the years are these precautions still necessary? If not are there any newer thoughts or opinions on shielding amplifiers.I've attached a picture of the rack (76 lbs) I plan on using. The plan is to place the amplifiers on the two bottom shelfs, the preamp and DAC in the middle racks and the TT and CDP on top.
.
Back in the day, we would shield the rest of the components in a system from the amps by:
1. Placing a clean brick on each amp with each amp coupled to an inch thick piece of cinder concrete about 18" X 18";
2. Placing a thin sheet of steel mesh (gounded to neutral) under the shelf over each amp and to the side that other equip was on; and,
3. Keep all other components at least two feet above and to the right of the left amp and the left of the right amp. (I remember reading that in a trade journal somewhere where it had something to do with cutting down the emissions from the amp transformers. Don't know if it really was effective but I did it anyway.)
As things have changed over the years are these precautions still necessary? If not are there any newer thoughts or opinions on shielding amplifiers.I've attached a picture of the rack (76 lbs) I plan on using. The plan is to place the amplifiers on the two bottom shelfs, the preamp and DAC in the middle racks and the TT and CDP on top.
.
Post edited by hearingimpared on
Comments
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You can also add around 38 pounds of lead shot to that rack through the threaded holes for the spikes before srcewing them in. I used #4 cause I had a couple of bags of it laying around.
I have tube amps now and still have to be careful of routing power wires and IC's close to the power and output transformers. I put the amps on the top shelf for now so they are easier to bias. Once I save up and get the TT I want, I will have to do something different.
When I had SS amps, the biggest being the Rotel RB-1090, I don't recall it being a problem with the pre amp a few inches above it on a glass shelf unless I moved the IC's close to the sides or top of the amp. Using IC's is one way to find out how much of a field the amp is throwing off as you will hear it through your speakers, with no music playing. I would guess if you left the 9" shelf on the bottom and the 7" on the top, your planned placement would be fine. I've also had an Adcom GFA-555 in the same configuration with no problems.Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
Nice rack.
I use the single column audio rack version. Looks nice and is fairly sturdy. The stacking shelves are very convenient.
I like the lead shot idea.HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50 LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub
"God grooves with tubes." -
Early B. wrote:Nice rack.
I use the single column audio rack version.
I made the choice after seeing a pic of your VTI rack in a thread here, so thanks for posting it. I just need to update the pic again. After I finalized the gear, it changed again...Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
SCompRacer wrote:I made the choice after seeing a pic of your VTI rack in a thread here, so thanks for posting it. I just need to update the pic again. After I finalized the gear, it changed again...
I like that nice blue glow coming off your tube amps.., I never went for tube amps, I guess I just remember what a pain in the neck they were when I was in tech school tearning how to be an electronic technician, that was 1975!. I guess things have progressed with tubes since then. -
Early B. wrote:Nice rack.
I use the single column audio rack version. Looks nice and is fairly sturdy. The stacking shelves are very convenient.
I like the lead shot idea.
It is very sturdy and heavy, I too like the lead shot idea. There is one concern . . . I might need a crane to move it when I want to tweak or switch out equipment. -
The VTI rack would be just fine. You'll never get away from stray interference in one form or another, so don't overthink things in that regard. The "back in the day" method was a waste of time.
Lead shot doesn't make the rack impossible to move as I doubt you're actually able to add more than about 100lbs. in that rack anyways.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint. -
hearingimpared wrote:I like that nice blue glow coming off your tube amps.., I never went for tube amps.....
Tube amps are one of them different strokes for different folks things. I like what they do for me yet have respect for SS amps. They give me flashbacks to the early sixties when I watched my Uncle repair tube gear and TV's.
These TAD-60's are a modern design with good output transformers. Bass is not lacking at all. One TAD-60 does a much better job of projecting bass than the 200WPC SS bass amp in the Innersound Active Crossover. A switch and RCA outs were provided so one can shut the internal amp off and use an external one.
Along with tube rolling, the TAD-60's can also be run in UL mode, Triode mode and adjusted to a SET mode. They also have feedback and volume adjustment so I can tailor the sound from the panels. My bass amp is in UL mode with no feedback. The ESL panel amp is in Triode mode and depending on material, will have from zero to 2 oclock feedback. And I love the Blue LED's too.:cool:Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
dorokusai wrote:The "back in the day" method was a waste of time.
I believe you are correct because I've neither read nor heard anyone talk about those old methods. However, the brick thing still makes sense because all transformers emit a hum or buzz however slight. I'm going to give it a try, it can't hurt . . . I think.
What are your opinions on the placement of the amps as related to the associated equipment? -
SCompRacer wrote:Tube amps are one of them different strokes for different folks things. I like what they do for me yet have respect for SS amps. They give me flashbacks to the early sixties when I watched my Uncle repair tube gear and TV's.
These TAD-60's are a modern design with good output transformers. Bass is not lacking at all. One TAD-60 does a much better job of projecting bass than the 200WPC SS bass amp in the Innersound Active Crossover. A switch and RCA outs were provided so one can shut the internal amp off and use an external one.
Along with tube rolling, the TAD-60's can also be run in UL mode, Triode mode and adjusted to a SET mode. They also have feedback and volume adjustment so I can tailor the sound from the panels. My bass amp is in UL mode with no feedback. The ESL panel amp is in Triode mode and depending on material, will have from zero to 2 oclock feedback. And I love the Blue LED's too.:cool:
Great stuff, very informative, thank you!:) -
hearingimpared wrote:I believe you are correct because I've neither read nor heard anyone talk about those old methods. However, the brick thing still makes sense because all transformers emit a hum or buzz however slight. I'm going to give it a try, it can't hurt . . . I think.
What are your opinions on the placement of the amps as related to the associated equipment?
It sounds logical and aesthetically pleasing.
The placement of the amps on the lower shelf should in itself, lower the perceived noise floor created by the transformers. If your amps are exhibiting a clearly audible hum or buzz, you have other issues to think about than setting a brick on top of them.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.