Question bout db 6x9s and 5x7s

Cview850

I just bought the db 6x9s and the db 5x7s for my car. Im looking to hook them up to an amp but i found a old amp my brother use to use for his subs. Its a sony mono 1600 watt amp .. It puts out like 500 w rms peak . Its a 1 channel amp. Is there anyway I can wire these 2 pairs of speakers to this amp or will it be pushin to much power. Couldnt I jus turn it down. I also got the db212s in my trunk wired to another sony amp. Right now my batterdrops everytime my trunk knocks. Would I need an extra battery if I want to hook another amp to my car .. like hookin the amps 2gether off 1 set of wires ...would it make my battery go dead ?? quickly ... cause im lookin to buy a optima yellowtop battery right now .. Anyone help me with this ?? Thanks

exalted512

no, 1-channel amps are for subwoofers only
-Cody

PoweredByDodge

of course you can hook your 2 6x9's and 2 5x7's to a 1 channel amp. just tie all the +'s together and all the -'s together... that'll give you a no-ohm load, which is ideal for sony mono amps.

it'll put out just the right amount of power, because that's all related to what brand of wire you use to hook up your remote turn on lead. the remote lead is controlled by a computer chip inside the radio, and it tells the amp just how much juice to be pushin through your speakers. so if you set the balance (left and right) to the middle and the fader (front to back) in the middle, it'll tell the sony amp that you have 4 speakers running off it.

you might need a second battery, if your battery is droppin when the bass is hitting, then you should add at least one battery and a capacitor. yellow tops are good, they are made with a special acid that isn't toxic, so if it ever blows up because of the powerful beats, it won't hurt your paint on the fenders and under the hood. you should look at a capacitor too...

i know audio - i can prove it - i just bought two of these... http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=24

Cview850

Thanks for that information but i jus found out the 1 channel amp i had was blowwnnn lol ... Well is there any good batterys for around 100-120 dollars ... i saw some kind of kinetic car audio battery for $112 .. is that any good .. and any 4 channel amps for around 80-100 dollars ... im pushin budget after i found out the amp was blown ... About how much watts will I need to push the speakers ... the 5x7s rms is 60 and the 6x9s rms is 100 ... And what size capicatator would I need ... 1 or 1.5 or 2 ... somethin like that .. Could you let me kno ... thanks because i need to get it installed by next week and need to hurry up and order this stuff what I need . Thanks help would be appreciated ..

PoweredByDodge

Kinetic car batteries are the best out there. Not the brand name 'kinetic', but the type, like - you know - the design. They're the only batteries that will stay charged even when you have the key turned off and the system is blazin. They got these special chemicals inside that are constantly moving around, cuz they're metal-based. So they act like magnets, little tiny particles inside the liquid that's in the battery, they move around, and that's why they're called kinetic... that is Kinetic Energy. Well when you're system is blazin and you're using a lot of juice, the particles inside the kinetic batteries will speed up even faster, creating more and more energy. They do still get drained if you play your system for like 8 or 9 hours, but they don't go head in 1 hour like those cheap Die Hard's made by those losers at Johnson Controls. Those guys don't make anything good. They should really talk to the guys that make the Optima batteries and learn a lesson or two. (1). You gotta spend at least 100 bucks on a battery. You get what you pay for - the battery wouldn't cost a lot of money if it wasn't a lot better. We all know that.

As far as a capacitor - you'll need at least 2 farads. Get one with a digital top, they manage the power better, how it's released and used up. The ones without the digital top can actually leak acid once in a while, and that ruins your carpet in your trunk.

The wattage you'll want on a 4 channel - well, I would say around 300 watts per channel. Amps are always way over rated. They never come close to what they say they do. Don't go cheap either - or it'll end up blown up like that sony you had. If you want an amp that's gonna last for a long time - get something good. Here's one that I reccomend... it's about $125 bucks, but it's worth every dollar man... its 500 watts x 4 ... 2000 watts total. http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/1939






1- Now that's trivia for you.

Greg Peters

(removes tongue from cheek)...quit taunting the boy .

While it may require a whole lotta patience to point him in the right direction, this is kinda like a cat batting a mouse back and forth between its paws.

It's not that it's not entertaining, but he did go and buy some halfway decent Polk speakers and subs...

Greg Peters

Cview850 wrote:

I just bought the db 6x9s and the db 5x7s for my car. Im looking to hook them up to an amp but i found a old amp my brother use to use for his subs. Its a sony mono 1600 watt amp .. It puts out like 500 w rms peak . Its a 1 channel amp. Is there anyway I can wire these 2 pairs of speakers to this amp or will it be pushin to much power. Couldnt I jus turn it down. I also got the db212s in my trunk wired to another sony amp. Right now my batterdrops everytime my trunk knocks. Would I need an extra battery if I want to hook another amp to my car .. like hookin the amps 2gether off 1 set of wires ...would it make my battery go dead ?? quickly ... cause im lookin to buy a optima yellowtop battery right now .. Anyone help me with this ?? Thanks

Skip the Sony. Sony=not so good. Get a decent 4 channel in the neighbourhood of 50-75 watts x 4 rms rating. Then get a decent 2 channel or monoblock for the db212. No capacitor required. No extra battery required.

Before springing $$ for any of the above, research some forums, read some books/magazines, and get an idea about what you need (to save you from any more Sony amp experiments).

MacLeod

Greg Peters wrote:

(removes tongue from cheek)...quit taunting the boy .

While it may require a whole lotta patience to point him in the right direction, this is kinda like a cat batting a mouse back and forth between its paws.

It's not that it's not entertaining, but he did go and buy some halfway decent Polk speakers and subs...

You mean those $145,000 subs arent the best in the world?

I just ordered one, and one of those kinetically charged batteries. Should I cancel the order?

Cview850

Im pretty sure I need an extra battery though ... the db212 knock enough already ... We have sumethin down here in florida called mayday and my car cutoff 45-1hr in2 with my music from up and down a lil but the battery like died totally ... but im jus sayin if i add another amp i think ill need sumethin to keep the car on and somethin to run the subs and stuff ...

Cview850

I also had another question ... would a capicatator work instead of getting a battery for a while ?? would it let me beable to turn my system up without getting worried or would yall prefer the battery ... cash is really tight now with having to buy a new amp , gettin the stuff installed, battery and capicatator ... so would that work or no ?? and if it did what size would I need or would a 2.0 work

Greg Peters

If you listen to your tunes with the key off for long periods, look for a deep cycle or marine deep cycle battery.

If you mostly listen with the engine running, just get a quality battery with a high CCA rating. It could be that your old battery has issues (unrelated to your system). A regular car battery should be good enough (provided your charging system is working OK).

A capacitor is only a bandaid for shortcomings in your charging system. A decent battery costs less than a capacitor, too. Upgrading the wiring between alternator, battery, and chassis ground is the only real fix. Powering your subs with a Class D mono amplifier will reduce current draw to a degree as they're usually more efficient than a Class A/B type amp, for current challenged electrical systems.

Greg Peters

MacLeod wrote:

You mean those $145,000 subs arent the best in the world?

I just ordered one, and one of those kinetically charged batteries. Should I cancel the order?

On point A, I'll never know...I'd need your kinda money to find out, Mac.

On point B, I'll defer to the wisdom of the "Polk Guru" on that one. I'll take the poor man's battery for my system, though.

In case there is any doubt (for those new to the forum), that Powered By Dodge guy is extremely "in the know", but I sensed a wee bit o' sarcasm in his responses to Cview850... . Not everyone can suffer noobs gladly.

PoweredByDodge

<--- has always been extremely "in the know" ... i am wise ghandi like man.

in all seriousness CView...

here's the deal...

1- battery: ONE GOOD BATTERY is plenty. for the amount of equipment your running, a single 900 - 1100 cold cranking amp (CCA rated) battery will do the job. something from Johnson Controls will certainly do the job, they make great products... (Optima, Interstate, Die Hard, AC Delco, and now Energizer). Optima batteries are 'gel cells' which means if you tip them over, they won't leak. They also don't give off fumes (lead-acid batteries give off sorta toxic fumes... so for guys that throw extra batteries inside the trunk or in the cabin or behind the seat of a pickup truck -- they have to use Optima Yellows so that they don't inhale that junk, and there isn't a risk of spilling it). But if you're just going under the hood -- do a 900 - 1100 CCA regular battery ... that'll run you between 70 and 100 bucks depending where you shop. Any auto parts store will have something along those lines.

2- amps: Yes, you will need a decent 4 channel, something about 50 to 100 x 4 would be great... but anything 25 x 4 RMS and above will do the job. (those are ratings at 4 ohms -- all amps are rated "rms at 4 ohms" , "rms at 2 ohms", "rms bridged at 4 ohms" - etc etc.... so check the "rms at 4 ohms" rating).

3- sub amps: if tose are 4 ohm db's - then snag a mono sub amp -- something that is say 500 or higher rms x 1 at 2 ohms.

you can probably get both amps new from an entry level manufacturer like Profile California or Hifonics low end stuff for around 300 bucks total new for both (150 each).

4- caps (capacitors): as far as caps go - they don't help **** unless your battery and alternator are already big enough to support the system. But, for sake of argument, lets say your alternator is ok for the job --- snag that big battery we were talking about, and the get a 1 farad cap (i usually use this rule -- 1 farad for every 750 watts). so if you're going to get huge amps and run 1500 watts... then grab two 1 farad caps -- or a single 2 farad... you get the idea.... the cap will "fill in the gap" between what your alternator puts out and your battery can supply during peak draw. it'll stiffen voltage -- for lack of abetter term. without going crazy explaining it - i'll put it this way - a cap never fixed anyone's power problems... but caps do make good power supplies into great power supplies... its a "finishing touch" of sorts.

if i can be of any further help - just ask homer... - Vinnie.

Cview850

Ight I got everything down ... I already know what amp and stuff 2 get ... Ok what kinda battery will not leak in my trunk and let off toxic fumes .. Im lookin to put the 2nd battery in my trunk and just leave the one I got crankin my car right now .. and yea im gettin a profile amp 80x4 rms at 4 ohms ... like 100 bucks ... and im probaly junk guna wait on the capacitator ... I just need to know on the battery situation .. Do you kno any for around 100 or somethin that wont spill .. keep my trunk knockin and wont let the speakers cut off .. and dont have no fumes in it .. Thanks

Greg Peters

Good to see the wise, ghandi-like man back on the forum. That's the type of advice I've come to expect from the PBD.

When using decent quality (non-Sony Xplode type stuff) amps, I've often been surprised by how well a basically stock charging system can tolerate multiple amps up to (and sometimes well over) the 1 kilowatt range with no issues.

If your system gets a little dicey and headlights start to dim at higher volumes, I'd much rather invest in a stout battery and "the big 3" upgrade than spring for a capacitor that may not help as much.

Depending on what you drive, you may be able to find a higher output alternator from the auto graveyard that swaps right in, too. If you drive a base model with minimal power accessories, an alternator for your same make/model with a full load may be rated for higher output.

Greg Peters

Cview850 wrote:

Ight I got everything down ... I already know what amp and stuff 2 get ... Ok what kinda battery will not leak in my trunk and let off toxic fumes .. Im lookin to put the 2nd battery in my trunk and just leave the one I got crankin my car right now .. and yea im gettin a profile amp 80x4 rms at 4 ohms ... like 100 bucks ... and im probaly junk guna wait on the capacitator ... I just need to know on the battery situation .. Do you kno any for around 100 or somethin that wont spill .. keep my trunk knockin and wont let the speakers cut off .. and dont have no fumes in it .. Thanks

Probably not the best idea as a first step. A second battery will have to be wired up to the charging system, and you'll probably need an isolator too. $100 may not get you a good second battery either. If Walmart in your area sells the Optima deep cycle (yellow top or blue top) batteries, it's probably more than $100.

What model amplifier do you have powering your db212? What is your alternator's amp rating? The 80x4 watt Profile shouldn't challenge your electrical system too much, even if running with a hefty subwoofer amp. I'd suspect the sub amp you are running has more to do with the subs cutting out than not enough battery.

Do you have the Polk db212-2 (ready made dual 12" box)? If so, that is wired for a 2 ohm load for your amplifier. I wouldn't be surprised if your amp is cutting out because it doesn't like the 2 ohm load it is connected to. The db212-2 is optimized for a 2 ohm stable amplifier rated around 700 watts RMS at 2 ohms. Replacing your current sub amp with something better suited will probably do more for you than a second battery/capacitor, or anything else.

Cview850

Ok so what would be my best option ... Get a optima yellowtop battery and replace dat with my current battery right now ?? but yea dey cost about 170 i kno dat ... and yea my subs never cut out at all .. not once yet .. the amp i have runs it great and the subs really knock but yea i got the one dat already comes in the enclosure .. i have a sony mono channel amp its 550 watts RMS at 4 ohms ... but it works great for me .. o yea and wuts a stout battery ??? " the big 3" whats that .. alright thanks again for the help ...

PoweredByDodge

ahem... go grab a Energizer 1000 CCA battery from Pep Boys, or a Die Hard 900 CCA from Kmart or Sears... or a Interstate 900 from whoever sells interstate. Put it under the hood in place of your current battery. End of story. That'll set you back 75 bucks.

www.ikesound.com has profile amps in stock cheap.

they should have 2 farad caps for like 40 bucks also.

... big 3 is 1=battery 2=alternator 3=cables.

I usually do 2 of the 3 (battery and cables) even on cars that don't get audio systems.

Cview850

ight .. thanks for allll the info but im still confused lol ... ok on monday im gettin my db 5x7s and 6x9s installed with a 1000 w profile amp at 80x4 rms but the battery situation ... if i did get an optima yellowtop would I b able 2 mount it in my trunk and if i did so what else would i need to do so and how much would it run 2 get it put into a shop running it 2 my subs.. Im goin 2 wait on the capicatator ... and wat about the cables ... what kind of cables are it for ... the battery ... thanks for the help ...