The Offical "Trey's TV Stand" Project Thread

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  • amulford
    amulford Posts: 5,020
    edited September 2006
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    Where's the plans???
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,102
    edited September 2006
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    Just havnt had time man...

    Lots of test this week... (studying) and that on top of work...wooo

    Today is my day off, so I will get them scanned - I have like 4 pages of plans though....

    Will keep you posted...
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,102
    edited September 2006
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    Here is a pic of the design...

    All my measurements are fairly random...
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited September 2006
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    Nice design. Are those glass panels in the front? Are you sure you have enough shelf space for your components?

    I assume the center channel speaker will be placed on top of the TV?
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,102
    edited September 2006
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    There are no glass panels...

    There is room for about... 18 normal sized components depending on depth, etc....

    Its based on the idea that some components should be out of view - which is why there are side shelves that arnt visible from the front. High end gear shouldnt be placed anywhere near a 80 dollar VCR, your XBox or some POS power conditioner that looks like butt... you get the idea...

    The side shelves can also hold CDs, DVDs, etc etc..

    The top part in the full drawing on the bottom, I most likely wont do....

    Thanks...

    The whole stand is about 55" wide, 26" deep, 24" tall... HUGE - but itll allow for adequate wire managment for all your components...

    I designed it with my needs, nothing more or less..
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • amulford
    amulford Posts: 5,020
    edited September 2006
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    With all the weight you have in mind, you need to have some sort of support on the shelves. They will droop over time and stress your joinery, which will not be pretty.

    Just something to think about.
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,102
    edited September 2006
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    Im doing what you said...

    The picture dosnt show the shelf supports. But basically it is going to have 1.5"x.75" strips of wood under the sides and back of the shelves...
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited September 2006
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    You may wish to think through putting some of your components on the side shelves. It may seem inconsequential right now, but you'll want to visually see if a component is on or off from your seating position, what settings they're on, etc.

    Besides that, you should want to show off your gear. That's part of the allure of this hobby. No need to tuck that nice looking Odyssey amp or Cambridge Audio DVDP on a side shelf. In addition, you have to consider adequate ventilation.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,102
    edited September 2006
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    Early...

    You missed the entire design idea.. ;)

    The B&K, Onix, Cambridge, Odyssey will be on the front shelves...

    Its the 80 dollar VCR, the XBox, the XBox 360 when I get it that will go on the side shelves. These components are visually disgusting to me...

    I want to show off my nice stuff, wouldnt think to hide those for the world!
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited September 2006
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    The X-Box, VCR, etc. is still going to be "visually disgusting" when viewed from the side. Can you enclose that stuff?
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,102
    edited September 2006
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    actually you wont be able to see it at all...

    I dont really want to enclose it because the XBoxes use fans and they get hot...

    But - I'm more so just want to seperate them from the other higher end components, you wont be able to see them in my small room, or a larger room... - unless you view at an angle... but I just dont want a 1,000+ amp beside a 80 dollar VCR... having some seperation would be nice.

    I hope to have some progress pics for you guys shortly... stay tuned.
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited September 2006
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    The rack is gonna to be heavy once you're done. Do you plan to do the final assembly in-room?

    Also, what do you anticipate the total construction cost will be?
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
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  • amulford
    amulford Posts: 5,020
    edited September 2006
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    Vr3MxStyler2k3 wrote:
    Im doing what you said...

    The picture dosnt show the shelf supports. But basically it is going to have 1.5"x.75" strips of wood under the sides and back of the shelves...

    You need to go under the front, too. Make that one out of your trim to make it look nice.
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  • BaggedLancer
    BaggedLancer Posts: 6,371
    edited October 2006
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    Early B. wrote:
    The rack is gonna to be heavy once you're done. Do you plan to do the final assembly in-room?


    sounds like forklift is the only way to go on this one.....

    Nice project, can't wait to see finished product.

    I keep dreaming of ideas of something I want to build and I just have 0 talent to build it.
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,102
    edited October 2006
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    Man I wish I had a camera...

    All I have left to do...

    In order of process...

    1) Cut out bottom and trim for bottom. Attach trim to bottom. Route around trim.

    2) Route Vertical Trim on front on each side of middle shelf.

    3) Attach Bottom

    4) Route walnut accents

    5) Attach Walnut accents

    6) cut top to size

    7) Attach top trim

    8) Route top trim

    10) Sand

    11) Repeat 10

    12) Repeat 10

    13) Clear

    14) Repeat 13

    15) Repeat 13

    etc etc

    About a week...week and a half left...

    And like I said before, itll be heavy - but...managable..
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • unc2701
    unc2701 Posts: 3,587
    edited October 2006
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    You forogt to sand between the clear coats :)
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,102
    edited October 2006
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    Beh...

    If I do anything like that - itll be light sanding... nothing hardcore...
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • Grimster74
    Grimster74 Posts: 2,564
    edited October 2006
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    Hey Trey, something that will make it a little more managable to move is go to your local Home Depot or Lowes and spend $10 on a set of casters for the bottom. If your stand is setting on a carpet floor you will never know or see the casters. Just a thought, wasn't sure if you already mentioned it or not. The last 10 tv stands I've built for people, they loved the idea of just being able to move them will all the gear still in place.
    Money Talks, Mine says Goodbye Rob!!!!
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  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited October 2006
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    Grimster74 wrote:
    Hey Trey, something that will make it a little more managable to move is go to your local Home Depot or Lowes and spend $10 on a set of casters for the bottom. If your stand is setting on a carpet floor you will never know or see the casters. Just a thought, wasn't sure if you already mentioned it or not. The last 10 tv stands I've built for people, they loved the idea of just being able to move them will all the gear still in place.

    Great idea. It's a cheap tweak.

    Sid, you're gonna wish you were able to move the stand once you get it in place.

    I installed casters on my last TV stand and it worked great. Wish I had them on my current stand. Just make sure your TV doesn't topple over when moving it.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
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  • audiobliss
    audiobliss Posts: 12,518
    edited October 2006
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    Wow, that's a really elaborate TV stand, bud! Sounds like the casters would be a great idea to help you move it around.

    Looks like it's going to be great for your equipment, though. I might hafta get you to build me one! And then throw it on your shoulder and deliver it! :D
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,102
    edited October 2006
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    Castors would be excellent, i didnt even think of that. (jeez Im slow)

    I was actually pondering carpet spike like things, which is a horrible idea. Castors... man...Im one pathetic loser... hahahha

    Awesome, I like that - Will need some beastly ones though, thats for sure...

    The middle shelf supported my weight by far... very sturdy - will handle the amp and then some I imagine...
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • Grimster74
    Grimster74 Posts: 2,564
    edited October 2006
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    Just glad I could give you some ideas.
    Money Talks, Mine says Goodbye Rob!!!!
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  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited October 2006
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    Sid -- go to HD and buy six casters. Even the smaller ones can hold a ton of weight, so don't worry about that.

    Get the round ones, not the ones that look like wheels.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,102
    edited October 2006
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    Will take a look at HD's castors...fo sho...

    Thanks for the advice, keep it coming!

    I finally have PICS! Imagine that, and yes the middle shelf is deeper than the rest of the cabinet - I dont have a clue why I did that... Im sure there is a reason... but I think one of the biggest reasons is just plain laziness and...a lil deeper shelf never hurt anyone...
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • amulford
    amulford Posts: 5,020
    edited October 2006
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    Looking good. You need to get some scrap cardboard for your painting. My ol' lady would kick your ****...
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,102
    edited October 2006
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    Indeed... I did that about 2-3 years ago when I had no brain... not much has changed now - but I atleast know now to put something under stuff Im painting...

    You know what is really sucky...when you go to put on a final piece of the project and it just dosnt line up quite right, 1/2" not quite right to be exact... and to be dumb, you attach it anyways - only to find out 2 minutes later why its messed up...

    So then you take out the screws, throw a clamp on and realign it by force and throw a few more screws in and wala..

    Ill post another pic in a second...
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,102
    edited October 2006
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    We have pictures....

    Yes the bottom is cut to small... and no I didnt do it on purpose...the first time. It was actually supposed to be my top but that plan fell through when I found it to be a weeee small...

    So basically I cut the width to proportion and will add a 2.5-3" trim - which is cool, I think thatll look better than having a .75" trim and you can see where it is attached to the plywood... this will give it a very clean look I hope...

    And the age old question... how many clamps do you REALLY need???
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,102
    edited October 2006
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    Getting closer and closer to being finished! :)
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,102
    edited October 2006
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    Getting the bottom trim on...

    Going to put about 6 or so 4.5x4.5 solid oak squares (3/4" thick) on the bottom to help reinforce the trim to plywood... which will also double as a castor holder..

    After that, will tip it over, route along the edges (I am using a smaller router, like in the picture)... then will attach walnut trim.... sand as much as I can - then move forward with attaching the top and top trim... sand some more... then clear clear clear clear!!
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • PolkThug
    PolkThug Posts: 7,532
    edited October 2006
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    Where do the Transformers go?
    Never Forget
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