The finished product...

audiobliss

I thought I'd start a new thread for all the pictures and criticisms for the install job.

1. Here's the left over material.
2. There's the amp mounted and all the wiring hooked up. All that's left to do is just reinstall the seats.
3. Not nearly as nice looking or nice feeling an amp as I had thought it'd be.
4. There you can see two scratches (though blurry) that I promptly dug into the side of my new amp. Now I know that the bar that adjusts the seat goes DOWN when you pull on it.
5. There's the distro block mounted and all the speaker wire coming out of the carpet.
6. There's the business end of the amp.
7. That's how we're running the ground. Of course the seat's mounted in there now, but it's still done the same way.
8. A tweeter!
9. I didn't put the little plastic bezel back on the HU when I reinstalled it. I never figured out why the shop put it on there in the first place 'cause it made the dash bow out.
10. All the seats out.
11. There's what you can see of the amp with the seat pushed all the way forward.
12. Can you read those settings?
13. The battery!
14. Inline fuse holder....200amp
15. Power wire zip tied to stuff
16. And there it finally enters the cabin.

MacLeod

Get that 200 amp fuse out of there. You dont need anything bigger than an 80 amp. Thats a good way to catch something on fire.

audiobliss

Well phoo. The guy at the first audio store said that's what I needed. And it came with the kit, but then again the kit was for two amps. So, now where can I get an 80A fuse to fit the fuse holder? Should I take the fuse out and stop using the amp 'til I can find an 80A fuse?

MacLeod

The purpose of the fuse is to prevent a fire in case the wire arcs or is stripped on something, the fuse will pop and wont let it catch your carpet on fire! 200 amps is a lot of juice and it is possible your wire could arc out and not blow the fuse. Go back to the shop you bought your stuff from and he'll have a 80 amp fuse. You can leave it in for now but get the right size fuse pretty soon.

exalted512

are there any fuses on the amp itself? If not, Id get an 80A fuse IMMEDIATELY.

Everything looks great except for the ground:D
-Cody

audiobliss

Yeah, there are two fuses on the amp...on the bottom of the amp.

Haha, well, the ground seems to be working ok.

MacLeod

Yeah, I noticed that too. I guess me and Cody are gonna be taking a road trip!

audiobliss

Well, if I had known that, I would have just waited to install the amp 'til y'all got here!

MacLeod

LMAO!!!!

Nah, we wouldve been fighting over wheter or not to use a dist block!

exalted512

or to use JL cables
-Cody

audiobliss

Yeah, I'll never do that again. Never. I think next time I'm doing something like this, I don't care, I'm buying online. That probably means knukonceptz.

MacLeod

Oh good grief. Go get a $200 set of cables and start prying on the fins and I betcha they break off too.

exalted512

yea but youd actually have to pry...
-Cody

MacLeod

Well, all I have to say is that I pryed open both ends of all 3 pairs of my JL cables and not one broke off.

Greg Peters

Know what'd really set that underhood power wire off? Some corrugated wiring harness cover, the plastic kind with the slit up one side that you pull over your wire. That would keep engine compartment grime from softening up the insulation over time, maybe keep heat from cracking it too.

That said, I'd never in a million years think that was a first-time type install.

Good job .

Seeing AB's pristine looking carpet makes me ashamed to look at mine. I'll have to keep my eyes open next trip to the wrecker- the trick is finding a good one in a Jeep before it's left open to the elements minus windows or doors. I'll steal the matching carpet out of the cargo area, too (to strip the backing off and use to carpet my next sub enclosure for a perfect color match).

audiobliss

You've got a great idea with that corrugted wiring harness cover stuff. I bet that really would help extend the power wire's life. Now the question is can I get motivated enough to un-ziptie it, cover it, and re-ziptie it.

I thought about how easy it might would be to replace the carpet. I guess if you just took everything out, it really wouldn't be that hard a task, assuming the new carpet was already molded to fit the floorpan. I wouldn't have thought about snagging some carpet from the junkyard for a sub enclosure, but that sounds like a great way to get a perfect match.

Greg Peters wrote:

That said, I'd never in a million years think that was a first-time type install.

Thank you very much! I appreciate that!

audiobliss

Greg Peters wrote:

Seeing AB's pristine looking carpet makes me ashamed to look at mine.

It really is in very clean shape, as is the rest of the vehicle (especially to be 11 years old), but I only have the previous owners to thank for that.

Greg Peters

audiobliss wrote:

You've got a great idea with that corrugted wiring harness cover stuff. I bet that really would help extend the power wire's life. Now the question is can I get motivated enough to un-ziptie it, cover it, and re-ziptie it.

Zipties are cheap (especially in bulk), but it's no biggie. The JL insulation is probably pretty good, but I usually cover it up (plus it looks more OEM that way).

I've usually bought the typical stretchy speaker box carpet when doing my enclosures- down side is limited colors, but it's easy to work with.

I was playing with some scraps from a '99 Jeep in the wrecking yard, and found that if I peeled the backing/insulation off, it was about as flexible as the stuff I usually use and was exactly the right color. The carcasses usually go into the crusher with the carpet still inside when they move in new inventory.

1996blackmax

Nicely done Bliss .