Wiring RDO tweets

univera

Finally installing new tweets. Which wires go to what posts? New tweets have a copper colored post and non-copper post. There is a green tagged wire and a white tagged wire to each. Do I just connect them top and bottom as they already are?

george daniel

black/blue=+
white/green= -
I believe that is the correct way,I'm sure someone else will chime in.

read-alot

What Torx size did you end up with?

Raife has answered that question before about wiring, I found it by using the search feature when I swapped mine out.

univera

I tried Torx and is indeed hex. Someone else had said they were Torx so I just assumed that was correct. I now have to go get hex....The Torx worked for a few until it stripped itself. I tried a search but there is alot to read through. What is the correct answer? There are no pos/neg. marking that I am aware? How bad is your football team when they loose to Rutgers....

dorokusai

Red(Copper) is +. George Daniel is correct. Why do you need a hex wrench to remove a tweeter?

univera

dorokusai wrote:

Red(Copper) is +. George Daniel is correct. Why do you need a hex wrench to remove a tweeter?

What else would I use? A hammer?:) The torx was not the correct tool. The person buying the old tweets said it was torx and I went on that. I don't have Phillips in the stock tweets. The new ones are Phillips. The inner tweet itself has a star or Torx fitting and the outer tweet surround (the part that I actually need to loosen) looks to be a hex. Am I wrong? Were most other tweets Phillips?

Just to add to my previous thread, old tweets are marked positive while the new ones have no marking other than the Red color.

Found the old thread from DK
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20914&highlight=tweeter+wires+color

george daniel

I always removed the tweeter (4 screws) located on the corners,,not the torx? next to the dome,, should be an easy drop in replacement.

F1nut

On the SRS's they used allen (hex) bolts/screws. George and Mark are correct on the wiring.

dorokusai

I've never had a hex wood screw in 30-35 pairs of vintage Polk's, not even my SRS. The inner machine screws can be torx, hex or philips.

F1 - No kidding, huh....guess I simply haven't seen that yet. That's pretty inconvenient.

univera

george daniel wrote:

I always removed the tweeter (4 screws) located on the corners,,not the torx? next to the dome,, should be an easy drop in replacement.

Should be. Like I said, I just gave a cursory glance and went on the suggestion of the new buyer. I just don't have the correct tool. Should be all done after hitting Lowe's in the a.m. Crossovers should be out tomorrow as well for rebuild. EDIT: Inconvenient indeed.....BTW, is there some advantage to hex and torx? Always wondered why they use those pain in the **** fasteners. For the record, I feel the hex are much better looking than the Phillips. Cleaner look, so maybe that answers my question. But those stupid Torx????????

univera

So how the hell do I get the damn crossovers out? I am using the directions provided with the polyswitches and removed the passive radiator. Besides the fact it is a bit difficult to stick my head in the hole, I can't figure out a way to unhook it. The directions say to remove the wire harnessness (3) but I have 5 or 6 connected to the board. Should I be removing the the metal plate on front? I am not the slightest bit handy and this is causing me to not enjoy my labor day......Since my switch is bad, I can't even do an A/B comparison with my new tweets.

F1nut

Put the PR's back in. You need to remove the crossover plates. It would be very helpful to have an extra set of hands for this as you will need to desolder the wires from the board. They do not have much of a lead and the crossovers are heavy. Be sure you make a drawing of what wires go where.

BTW, forget about the Torx screws on the tweeters, you have no need to remove them.

madmax

dorokusai wrote:

I've never had a hex wood screw in 30-35 pairs of vintage Polk's, not even my SRS. The inner machine screws can be torx, hex or philips.

F1 - No kidding, huh....guess I simply haven't seen that yet. That's pretty inconvenient.

Actually its kinda nice. They are not wood screws at all. On the inside are threaded plates and they accept the hex headed machine screws. My SDA-SRS use them.
madmax

dorokusai

madmax wrote:

Actually its kinda nice. They are not wood screws at all. On the inside are threaded plates and they accept the hex headed machine screws. My SDA-SRS use them.
madmax

In that case, cool.

univera

F1nut wrote:

Put the PR's back in. You need to remove the crossover plates. It would be very helpful to have an extra set of hands for this as you will need to desolder the wires from the board. They do not have much of a lead and the crossovers are heavy. Be sure you make a drawing of what wires go where.

BTW, forget about the Torx screws on the tweeters, you have no need to remove them.

Yes, thanks. I started thinking that was a near impossible task with my head jammed the hole, holding a flashlight, and dreaming of a chiropractic visit:) I figured it had to from the front and would need additional help. Troy D and Dave confirmed as much. Perhaps I can twist an arm to help...

And, I never had plans for the Torx screws, I just thought that was what I needed for the outer 4. Thanks for your help.

reeltrouble1

univera wrote:

Besides the fact it is a bit difficult to stick my head in the hole,

Oh my!!!!! now I read in the other post how you are fit fellow Uni and not a "belly bucker" but we do have contest for biggest head size, right now I believe its a toss up between Russman and SkiGod.:D

RT1

danger boy

when i swapped out the SL2000 tweets for the RD0 ones.. they were attached by the 4 outter Torx screws.. hex wrench did not work.

The mid drivers also use Torx.. they look like Hex, but aren't, at least on my SRS's. YMMV

reeltrouble1

My SRS have the hex as stated by Max, machine screw. Guess its really not a big deal as long as Uni can get them out.

RT1

danger boy

i've never run into anything else that has used Torx screws.... till i went to replace the tweeters. i had never even heard of Torx.