RM6900 set-up help needed

irregularjoe

Hi.
I posted a similar post on the Bass Management page a week ago but am still having concerns.
I set up my 6900 system using LRE and the "small speakers" setting.
I'm using a new Onkyo TXSR603 to power them.
Should I wire the sub differently? Use the speaker inputs?
What should I set the manual speaker settings at?
I used the microphone auto setup that came with my Onkyo and although it was fun, the results are marginal.
Are the RCA left/right different than the other speaker inputs (not the LRE)?
Why does Polk include A LRE input and then tell you not to use it?

As I said, I set them up initially usung the sub out from my receiver to the LRE on the sub woofer, Sub-woofer "ON", and satelities "Small".
Not very impressed with the results however.

I'm dissapointed that Polk doesn't have anything more than the rather generic guide to setup than I've seen.

I realize that these are not the "audiophile" speakers that most of you use, but they were a big investment for me.

Any help appreciated.
Thank,
Joey

[Deleted User]

Hello,
Thanks for posting. Here's a link from our site that addresses your questions:
http://www.polkaudio.com/education/article.php?id=19
I hope it is helpful.
Regards, Ken

irregularjoe

Thanks for the link. However it doesn't answer my questions.
Why does Polk include a LRE input and then advice you not to use it?
Are the subwoofer Left/Right RCA speaker inputs the same as the Left/Right speaker wire inputs?
If I don't use the LRE input, and use either the RCA or speaker wire left/right inputs, should I set the woofer to off?
Should the front speakers then be set to large? What about the surrounds and the center?

Again, all help appreciated.

Thanks,
Joey

adam2434

Yes, Polk does recommend using the speaker wire inputs on the sub, but that's not what the vast majority of folks do for home theater.

The left/right RCA and speaker inputs are similar in that that the sub's internal low pass filter will be enabled with them. The LFE input is unfiltered, which is desirable when you're using the filters/crossovers in a receiver's bass management.

If I were you, I'd go back to using the LFE input and try the following:
1) set all speakers to small
2) select a relatively high crossover point (experiment in the 100-150 Hz range, depending on what options the receiver has). Your speakers are small and bass-limited, so they will require a relatively high crossover point.
4) Try to place the sub fairly close to the front speakers to minimize localization of the sub.
5) calibrate levels manually with a SPL meter and enter delay/distance manually from actual measurements. In other words, ditch the auto-calibration.
6) Make sure any EQ settings from the auto-calibration are disabled.

While a neat feature, I've found that auto-calibration and EQ settings on my system do not sound as good as the tried-and-true manual method with no EQ enabled.

This process will at least get you at a good baseline to adjust from if necessary.

McLoki

adam2434 wrote:

If I were you, I'd go back to using the LFE input and try the following:
1) set all speakers to small
2) select a relatively high crossover point (experiment in the 100-150 Hz range, depending on what options the receiver has). Your speakers are small and bass-limited, so they will require a relatively high crossover point.
4) Try to place the sub fairly close to the front speakers to minimize localization of the sub.
5) calibrate levels manually with a SPL meter and enter delay/distance manually from actual measurements. In other words, ditch the auto-calibration.
6) Make sure any EQ settings from the auto-calibration are disabled.

If you can set the crossover in your reciever to 150 (or higher) this is the method I would recommend as well. (all speakers set to small, sub to on or yes)

If you do not have a crossover point at 150, hook it up via the speaker inputs (so the sub is inline with your front speaker and run front speakers to large and sub to off or none)

Michael

adam2434

I think Onkyo's have 120 and 150 Hz options. Once calibrated, I'd experiment with both using music in stereo (no surround mode). You want the sub to blend with the fronts without drawing attention to itself.

If the crossover is too low, you'll hear a gap in the bass between the sub and fronts. Music will sound "thin". If the crossover is too high, the bass can sound slow/muddy and the sub will draw undue attention to itself. Try both and determine which sounds best.

irregularjoe

Thanks for the replies!
At least now I have a place to start.

What do I set the "frequency" knob control on the sub woofer at?
And what's the "phase" switch for. I assume that it reverses polarity, but why would I want to do that?

Joey

adam2434

When using the LFE input, the frequency knob (low pass crossover) is bypassed. So, it doesn't matter where you set it.

The phase switch is used to keep the sub in phase with the rest of your speakers. Do the calibration with the phase set to "0". Then, when you're done, have someone switch the switch it back and forth while you're sitting in the main position listening to music. If you hear a difference, keep the switch in the position that produces the most bass.

Another thing - I'd start with the sub's volume/level knob in the 1/3-1/2 range. When I calibrate with a SPL meter, I'll like to have the sub calibrated in the -3 to +3 dB range on the receiver's sub level control. I usually need to adjust the volume/level on the sub once or twice to get it calibrated in this range.

irregularjoe

adam2434 wrote:

When using the LFE input, the frequency knob (low pass crossover) is bypassed. So, it doesn't matter where you set it.

The phase switch is used to keep the sub in phase with the rest of your speakers. Do the calibration with the phase set to "0". Then, when you're done, have someone switch the switch it back and forth while you're sitting in the main position listening to music. If you hear a difference, keep the switch in the position that produces the most bass.

Another thing - I'd start with the sub's volume/level knob in the 1/3-1/2 range. When I calibrate with a SPL meter, I'll like to have the sub calibrated in the -3 to +3 dB range on the receiver's sub level control. I usually need to adjust the volume/level on the sub once or twice to get it calibrated in this range.

OK. I'll try that.
The phase switch only has two positions though. "Normal" and "Reverse". No off position.
Where can I get SPL meter?

Thanks

Joey

adam2434

Yeah, "normal" is the same as "0". Different subs have different phase descriptions.

You can get a SPL meter at Radio Shack for around $40.

You can also get a home theater calibration DVD to take you through the calibration process. Avia, Digital Video Essentials, and Sound and Vision Tune Up (cheapest) will all take you through the calibration process and also provide some easy and useful calibrations for your TV.

A calibration DVD isn't absolutely necessary, but it can be helpful if you're just getting into this hobby.

irregularjoe

Hey adam2434,
Thanks for all the helpful information.
Yes, I'm JUST getting into thie hobby, as I assume you were able to tell. LOL.
I'll get the meter and the DVD. I need all the help I can get!

Thanks again.

Joey

adam2434

Glad to help and good luck.

irregularjoe

"You can also get a home theater calibration DVD to take you through the calibration process. Avia, Digital Video Essentials, and Sound and Vision Tune Up (cheapest) will all take you through the calibration process and also provide some easy and useful calibrations for your TV"


I forgot to ask.
Where can I find these DVD's?

adam2434

Just do a Google search. You'll have to buy one on-line.

I bought the Sound and Vision one here: http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/home/200/home-theater-tune-up.html

This is the simplest and most basic set-up DVD, but is adequate for most people.