Ceiling fan speeding up on its own

disneyjoe7

mrbigbluelight wrote:

All those extra features are solid-state, probably run off a simple PROM chip.
When you get a big voltage spike when the AC starts, the voltage dip is greater than some predetermined level (10% ?).
The SS wall control thinks "Oh, oh.... powers off !" and switches or STARTS to switch into some pre-programed safe state.

MrbigBlueLight, I think you're 100% right and yes that was my thinking also. But all in all this BLOWS because of **** design and to keep cost down. I can't stand **** electronic designs it just pissing me off, what no one adds a F'ing Cap to the power supply any more. I see to many designs 50% working assembled in China designed where I don't know but what the fewest parts you can do it in. All made for the perfect world never for the REAL WORLD. I don't know what we of Consumers should do about it, you never know where the next F'ing is going to happen.... I'm personally keeping some Vasoline with me because I'm sick of bleeding too heavy.

mrbigbluelight

DisneyJoe, you mentioned the "AC=240v, Fan=110v" thing. You might be onto something there.

I wouldn't be suprised if his electric panel was full, and one leg of the 240v breaker has TWO wires on it (one of them being the Fan/Control).



That, or ..........

WITCH !! BURN THE WITCH !!!

univera

All I know is the damn thing was on full blast again in the middle of the night. I think I finally figured it out: I've been leaving the closet door open, with the ligth on, at night, and we all know what kind of things that invites. "Kerra Ann, go to the light." THEY'RE HE-YER......." "The T.V. People.":eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

univera

mrbigbluelight wrote:

DisneyJoe, you mentioned the "AC=240v, Fan=110v" thing. You might be onto something there.

I wouldn't be suprised if his electric panel was full, and one leg of the 240v breaker has TWO wires on it (one of them being the Fan/Control).



That, or ..........

WITCH !! BURN THE WITCH !!!

I did have one breaker wired for I think 120? for a Euro dryer that runs on a different current. Don't know if that could be related.

disneyjoe7

I was thinking the AC in his room was a little one 120vac 10amp or so. But it a pretty big one 240vac so if it causing noise (voltage down thing) then it's on both legs, not just one. So moving it from A to B would fix it, if the AC is working on A and B already.


Or you could swap the two fan controllers, (the switch on the wall). Both again this is in line to what Frank was saying already.

clueless

If this is a 2 wire install the ceiling fan will have a receiver and the wall control is a transmitter. Power fluctuations will turn the lights on and possibly cause the fan to switch speeds. Where as your other fan may be a 3 wire install which would not require a transmitter/receiver to control the light and fan functions.

Frank Z

See post #6.

univera

clueless wrote:

If this is a 2 wire install the ceiling fan will have a receiver and the wall control is a transmitter. Power fluctuations will turn the lights on and possibly cause the fan to switch speeds. Where as your other fan may be a 3 wire install which would not require a transmitter/receiver to control the light and fan functions.

Don't know about the wires, but that fan is also solely controlled at the wall. It may have a remote control option, but I don't own one. The new fan with the Poltergeist actually has a reverse button that can only be activated while the fan is RUNNING. This surprised me, but when activated, the fan slows itself down and then changes directions. Really cool design. I hadn't see this before. My other unit is more expensive but has to be switched on the fan itself. Don't know if that has anything to do with this problem.

I really can't figure out the green goo hanging off the blades....
:eek:

clueless

One way to test if it is power fluctions is to turn the breaker for the fan on and off. I can't help with the green goo I don't have an exorcism license.

univera

clueless wrote:

One way to test if it is power fluctions is to turn the breaker for the fan on and off. I can't help with the green goo I don't have an exorcism license.

Then what? See if the fan gets faster or the lights come on, etc? Why would one fan be a three wire and one a two wire? I don't know what the wires go to. Hot/Cold/ Ground? Why am I taking advice from someone named "Clueless?":D

jcaut

Maybe you need one of these??http://www.power-save.com/product.html

Edito: Yes, that's what I meant. Thanks!

clueless

Most home light switches are wired for lights only 1 hot 1 common ei 14/2. To control a ceiling fan the optimal situation would be 3 wires to the fixture 2 hot 1 common ei 14/3. One hot for the fan and one hot for the light. Fan manufacturers have created devices that allows 14/2 wiring to control the fan and light independently. The most common of these is the transmitter/receiver combination. These will do strange things when the power fluctuates.

And clueless is in regards to my audio expertise, that’s why I joined the form to learn from the experts.

disneyjoe7

Frank Z wrote:

See post #6.

Yes Frank you got credit for that post 100%. But my take is that manufacturing electronic devices SUCK do to profit margins that CEO stock holders whatever like to make on your ****. This SUCKs I say remove it stick that up somebody's ****.

disneyjoe7

I think you meant this link

http://www.power-save.com/product.html

I just installed it and still testing it, my installation maybe not 100% as I had to install off a small sub panel. But I can say yesterdays lightening storm I sat better the voltage spikes don't upset me as easy.

jcaut wrote:

Maybe you need one of these??[URL]="http://www.power-save.com/"]http://www.power-save.com/[/URL]

disneyjoe7

clueless wrote:

The most common of these is the transmitter/receiver combination. These will do strange things when the power fluctuates.

I never seen one of those, could you link me up some... Learning curve

univera

univera wrote:

Hey, I'm all about silly answers. Please, keep them coming. I just also wanted some real advice. Gotta be that Poltergeist. Last night, before going out, I got in the shower and my bottle of shampoo has oozed down the side of tub. I couldn't figure any logical explanation. Had to be a paranormal event. :eek: I took a photo, but I haven't attempted to post a photo yet and don't quite know how.

Photographic evidence of paranormal activity in my adjoining bathroom. Or, perhaps, a prime example of the need for Signal Cable Risers. Too much static electricity likely could have caused the shampoo to spontaneously ooze from the tube. As you can plainly see, the top is completely closed. If anyone can tell me how to post something not supersized, I'm all ears.

SCARY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

disneyjoe7

As far as pictures my favorite way is to send the picture back to my self as E-mail. Then I re-save picture as something else to post smaller picture. Assuming you're using WinXP software.

univera

disneyjoe7 wrote:

As far as pictures my favorite way is to send the picture back to my self as E-mail. Then I re-save picture as something else to post smaller picture. Assuming you're using WinXP software.

Thanks, yes XP. I actually just copied and pasted from Photobucket. I would like to use thumbnails, but don't know how. Saving to email requires a few steps, but if it is the only way...

disneyjoe7

I think the thumbnails take something from Polk forum where the photo links adds to it. Something I miss from the old forum software, but understand where bandwidth could be an issue the old way.

clueless

disneyjoe7 wrote:

I never seen one of those, could you link me up some... Learning curve

No problem. This is one that is available from Minka Aire

http://www.minkagroup.net/productdetail.asp?productid=6696&div=167&styleid=1968&catid=2232

Hunter, Hampton Bay also make them.

disneyjoe7

More stuff in the soup so to speak. To mess things up!

Are they line based transmitter (ei X-10 or something like), or RF based transmitter / receiver? I see some kind of switch setting does that need to be changed. Also any line based system would seem to add noise, phone extenders / IR extenders and the like, anything like that on that breaker? If it's line based I should add.

clueless

The one's I've work with recently all have been RF base. The one on the site I listed is RF Based. The line based ones I've worked with in the past have controlled the light/fan by fluctuating the current to the unit. I haven't seen these in a while.

burdette

univera wrote:

There is no remote to this fan. It is only controlled by the wall switch. It may be possible there is a remote link, but I don't recall seeing that as an option.

That explains it. I have a fan remote that I got at Goodwill, but no fan (so the remote was really cheap!). I just push the buttons sometimes for fun. Sorry - I'll try to point it away from your house.

univera

clueless wrote:

No problem. This is one that is available from Minka Aire

http://www.minkagroup.net/productdetail.asp?productid=6696&div=167&styleid=1968&catid=2232

Hunter, Hampton Bay also make them.

The link here shows the controller that doesn't have any issues and is further away from the unit. My other, troubled fan has a different one and isn't the one Clueless refers to. Mine appears to have the one with the fluctuating current design.

clueless

I looked at the installation instructions for your fan. It has a receiver/transmitter combination. This one is RF. I have seen these controllers do some strange things when the power fluctates.

http://www.minkagroup.net/manuals/F601-English.pdf

univera

clueless wrote:

I looked at the installation instructions for your fan. It has a receiver/transmitter combination. This one is RF. I have seen these controllers do some strange things when the power fluctates.

http://www.minkagroup.net/manuals/F601-English.pdf

Clueless, thanks for your dilligence. What is the solution to the problem, short of bringing in some type of spiritual intermediary?:)

disneyjoe7

Well looking at the instruction manual I will never buy that brand or fan.

Saying that my input is the remove it, return it, or burn it, your choice.

Ok for a controller to work it needs voltage this voltage is stolen by the series wiring (why I don't know and I say it's a **** design) if RF why series wiring stealing voltage thing? So this is not given the controller by the fan the full sine wave it can't as some of this wave / voltage is needed for wall controller. Noise or power problem will cause trouble, as this is powered the way it is. Short of nothing I say you can do to fix it. I if nothing else would remove controllers wall and by the fan, rewire for a wall switch but I don't know about the reverse control thing or if theres a switch on the fan also. So fan could work one way or the other and not be what you want.

univera

Thanks, Joe. I may just have to live with it as a simple wall switch will lose the ability to control the speeds, the coolness factor, and the reverse as there are no controls on the fan whatsoever. Seem like the poltergeist might have been easier to correct! FWIW, I haven't had any issues the past couple of days. It's hard to believe a large national brand would have such a crappy design flaw. This has to be one of, if not the top selling, modern fan lines. They win awards for aesthetic designs but obviously not for wiring.

disneyjoe7

My fan choices are Hunter then Hampton Bay none other. I only do Hunter now due to house already has this brand installed and I wish to make it the same.