Power for SR6500 Set

Tn_Audiophile

Just as the topic states...

I have an ARC Audio 5150xxk amplifier that will provide roughly 50 watts for each tweeter and midbass in four channel mode OR roughly 130 watts per side in two channel mode. Which will be the best combination for the SR6500 set ?

Thanks,
J

exalted512

i would biamp and do the 50x4
-Cody

MacLeod

Yup. Bi-amping is the only way to go for the best tuning flexibility.

bizza

I am in a similar situation.... 50x4 or 150x2...

they are rated at 125 rms each right??? Howcome you guys recommend bi amping them, wouldnt they be severly underpowered????

Just a bit confused here... tks!

eloplayspolo

because fine tunning > power that u will most likely never use, u will have plenty of loud crisp clean music at 50 watts per chan

MacLeod

More power is always better than less power. But youre not biamping to give more power, youre doing it to get better control.

However, by amping the tweeters and midrange independently youre able to tune each of them independently. Both the mid and the tweeter will have their own gain from the amp and if you have a processor or EQ of any kind you can tune each speaker individually.

Thats not to say that straight wiring is a bad thing - not at all. If youre wanting more a "plug and play" setup and either dont have the gear to do any in depth tuning nor have the desire to, then straight wiring would be the way to go.

PoweredByDodge

I'm on the other end of the spectrum.... for many years I found myself very happy putting almost 200 watts per 'side' (channel) on Polk DX-6500 (I think that was the model number) components.

I went with the 'bi-amp for more flexibility' thing for a while, and - honestly - I didn't like it.

I like my music loud, real loud. And as long as I've got enough headroom to handle the wicked top end, then I'm all for just using the included passive crossovers and running a couple hundred watts to each side.

I've yet to twiddle around with SR's, but I wouldn't be surprised if a 150 to 200 x 2 amp would do just fine on them.

Currently, I'm running a set of Audiobahn 6.2k's up front with somewhere in the range of 200-ish to 225-ish per 'side' (channel). I'm oh-so-uuber happy with it.

bizza

Thanks for the responses, now I get the difference. I dont like to listen my music too loud, but I do care for good sq, so I'll try to bi amp them first.... if they dont get loud enough for me, then I can always change the setup...

Just one last question, the engineers @ polk seem like they put a lot of effort in the crossover design. I am pretty sure that using the crossover "affects" the SQ...
If I biamp them, ie bypassing the crossover, wouldnt I be losing this?

PoweredByDodge

They did put a lot of work into it -- **** it has air core inductors for god sake (they're not cheap).

That being said, if you find out what the crossover points of the tweeter and woofer are set to (when the polk passiver xover is used), and also the slope -- then go and set your electronic crossover to the exact same -3db point and slope, then you will not see any difference between using the polk passive xover and using your own electronic active xover.

Jstas

The DX 6.5 inch components were DX3065's. They used the same numbering scheme as the db series.

The DX3065's were made up of DX3000 tweeters and DX6500 6.5 inch woofers. Hence DX3065.

The db3065 had db3000 tweeters and db6500 woofers.

MacLeod

The SR crossover is bi-ampable. It has seperate inputs for mid and tweeter so you can bi-amp and still use the crossover.

Vinny - I totally agree with you. The ideal setup would be bi-amping with a 200x4 amp.

PoweredByDodge

oh -- really... hmm... well if you can biamp the xover, then *gafaa* 200 x 4 would be nice !!!!!!!

bizza

MacLeod wrote: »

The SR crossover is bi-ampable. It has seperate inputs for mid and tweeter so you can bi-amp and still use the crossover.

Vinny - I totally agree with you. The ideal setup would be bi-amping with a 200x4 amp.

Oh really?? wow isnt that a nice feature!

Is there something that these speakers dont do!

JoshParsons84

If a man is just wanting to do some straight wiring and be content with his SR6500's, what are some suggestions on good amps for his components and some suggestions for his subs (10's)?

PoweredByDodge

Single IDmax V3 12" dual 4 ohm and this... http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/3385 (US Amps Merlin 1kw @ 2 ohms / 1800 @ 1 ohm)

And a this will give you 2 x 160 for the SR's -- http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/3382 or allow you to bi-amp them.

MacLeod

JoshParsons84 wrote: »

If a man is just wanting to do some straight wiring and be content with his SR6500's, what are some suggestions on good amps for his components and some suggestions for his subs (10's)?

Id look for any 2 channel from a major name brand like Rockford Fosgate, Kicker and so on thatll make at least 100 watts RMS per channel.

For the subs, the best compliment to the SR6500's is the SR104. For that one youd need 700 RMS to get the best out of them.

JoshParsons84

How do the Rockford Fosgate Power series, the Kicker SS series and Alpine Type-X series differ in sound compared to the Polk SR series?

black magic

I'm sure the opinions here won't be biased at all

It depends what you're looking for. They're all good. The Alpine X go pretty loud. But of course I'd go with Polk for the best sq. Opinions for the most part are pretty subjective. The best idea is to listen to as many as you can and go with the ones you like best.

JoshParsons84

Well the only one's here in WV is the Polk db series, Alpine Type-R, Kicker RS, Rockford Fosgate Power series. I've actually liked the Rockford Fosgate Power the best. But they're the only speakers I've heard amp'd and with the music I listen to. I doubt I'll be able to afford the SR series for a LONG time so in the mean time what would y'all suggest between the Polk db, Alpine Type-R, Rockford Power, Kicker RS series?

br85

Sorry to drag up an old thread for my first post, but I have a set of SR6500's and a set of 5250's I bought to go in my new car, and I was thinking about bi-amping both sets using a JL 300/4 (already have that one, 75W X 4 rms) for all four tweets and two 300/2 (150W X 2 rms) for the woofers. Is this a good Idea? I will be running the passive crossovers for the simplicity and safety they provide, but I will also be filtering the extremes off at the amps (theoretically each channel should be cleaner if it's not having to amplify the entire frequency spectrum).

Will this kick ****, or is there a better way to go about it?

MacLeod

So long as you can use common sense with the volume, Id recommend running a 300/2 on each 6500 then bi-amp the 5250's with the 300/4. Im assuming the 5250's are going in the rear.

This would give you tons of power and plenty of clean headroom where it counts, on the front speakers.

Toxis

than why even biamp the rears? I don't get this at all. Why have the best tuning ability in the back?

black magic

Toxis wrote: »

than why even biamp the rears? I don't get this at all. Why have the best tuning ability in the back?

I think Mac meant a 300/2 for each SR6500 component set since he has two of them (eg. one amp can be used for the tweeters the other for the woofers). That allows 150 watts for the tweeters as well as the woofers in the front as apposed to 75 for each of them in the rear (using the 300/4). Both component sets would thus be bi-amped but the front would have more power.

br85

MacLeod wrote: »

So long as you can use common sense with the volume, Id recommend running a 300/2 on each 6500 then bi-amp the 5250's with the 300/4. Im assuming the 5250's are going in the rear.

This would give you tons of power and plenty of clean headroom where it counts, on the front speakers.

Thanks for that. Another quickie though, surely those tweeters would be getting killed at 50 Watts of power as it is, I thought 75 for the X19's would be all the overkill I need, would the tweeter protection circuit (in the SR6500 crossovers) not kick in long before the X19's could take advantage of all that extra headroom power?

As for using common sense for volume, yeah, I can do that, but I can guarantee that every inquisitive d**kweed that wants to "check out my amps" will fiddle with my gain settings if I'm not looking, and I am somewhat concerned about blowing up those tweeter protectors with so much power.

PoweredByDodge

300.2 isn't too much power... it's kinda light actually.

friends don't let friends use less than 140% power.

MacLeod

Toxis wrote: »

than why even biamp the rears? I don't get this at all. Why have the best tuning ability in the back?

Bi-amp all the speakers. He's got a single 300/4 and a pair of 300/2's so I say have a 300/2 on EACH channel up front. Thats a 300/2 for the left mid and tweet and a 300/2 for the right. Ultimate stereo seperation and control there.

300.2 isn't too much power... it's kinda light actually.

friends don't let friends use less than 140% power.

The would be 150 watts PER DRIVER. Thats actually about 220% and in the wrong hands will turn those outstanding speakers into paperweights.

As for using common sense for volume, yeah, I can do that, but I can guarantee that every inquisitive d**kweed that wants to "check out my amps" will fiddle with my gain settings if I'm not looking, and I am somewhat concerned about blowing up those tweeter protectors with so much power.

You need new friends. I dont think Ive ever met anyone that said "hey let me check out your system" and then started cranking on the gains. Nothing is fool proof so if youre going to have guys messing with your gains trying to blow your speakers, youre better off just sticking with your head unit to power everything. No way thatll blow anything.

keith89

Anyone know the max continuous power handling of the tweeters and woofers individually if biamped?
the polk audio site says 125rms continuous, but is this to each tweeter/woofer set?

br85

MacLeod wrote: »

You need new friends. I dont think Ive ever met anyone that said "hey let me check out your system" and then started cranking on the gains. Nothing is fool proof so if youre going to have guys messing with your gains trying to blow your speakers, youre better off just sticking with your head unit to power everything. No way thatll blow anything.

It's not my friends, maybe I'm just a little too generous with letting people look at my stuff at gatherings. Anyway, thanks for all the advice, I'll get right on the install as soon as I find the money for some good wiring gear. Not going to buy kits, I'm sure I can get all of the individual stuff way cheaper.

keith89

keith89 wrote: »

Anyone know the max continuous power handling of the tweeters and woofers individually if biamped?
the polk audio site says 125rms continuous, but is this to each tweeter/woofer set?

Anyone? I'm thinking of using an Alpine PDX.4-150 to power my sr6500's...150 watts to each channel just for a little headroom. Would this be too much? I will be setting my gains with an oscilloscope.

black magic

keith89 wrote: »

Anyone? I'm thinking of using an Alpine PDX.4-150 to power my sr6500's...150 watts to each channel just for a little headroom. Would this be too much? I will be setting my gains with an oscilloscope.

I don't know the exact numbers, but as long as you are careful with your gains and volume, you should be fine as it is always good to have extra power. Although, it may be a good idea to contact Polk directly and ask a representative for the actual numbers:

Customer Service & Tech Support:
polkcs@polkaudio.com
800-377-7655

MacLeod

The safe answer is half the total rating of the set so 60 watts per driver.

The not so safe answer is that you can use a lot more so long as youre listening to MUSIC and not blasting thru the neighborhood with the volume on 11.

Speakers fry when more heat builds up in their voice coils than they can dissipate. You can send 100 watts to a 50 watt speaker if its a quick burst like a cymbal crash or snare drum slap. This is a quick burst but the speaker can generally dissipate the heat since the next note wont be so much power. Now you feed 100 watts constantly to that 50 watt speaker like a rap song with a long constant bass note, and itll eventually build up too much heat and RIP.

That doesnt mean that a speaker can always handle more power, cause the 2nd thing thatll kill a speaker is it being pushed beyond its suspension's limits and SNAP!. So while a 100 watt burst may not build up too much heat in the voice coil, it may be enough to push the speaker further than it can handle and, again, RIP.

So the basic answer is to use your common sense. There is nothing wrong with using big power to a set of speakers so long as youre listening to music at a musical level and not overdriving your speakers.