RTi12's Run at 4 or 8 ohms?

MMcguire
MMcguire Posts: 1
edited July 2006 in Speakers
Just upgraded my speakers to Polk RTi Series and wanted to get some advice on how to best connect them to my 100w x 5 & 8ohms Yamaha reciever. In additon to the default 8 ohms all around setting, I can set the reciever for 4 ohms on the fronts which puts 6 ohms on the remaining channels. It would seem this would be the better setting since it would drive the fronts better...and if you actually measure the RTi12's impedance it is 4 ohms.

Granted the better option is to buy a amp, but in the mean time... which would bet the better setting?
__________________
Polk RTi12 (fronts)
Polk CSi5 (center)
Polk FXi5 (rear)
Polk PSW505 (Sub)
Yamaha HTR 5280 Receiver
Toshiba 61" soon to be upgraded to a 60" Sony XBR2
HP MCE PC w/Creative X-FI and DTS601
Post edited by MMcguire on

Comments

  • ohskigod
    ohskigod Posts: 6,502
    edited July 2006
    I dont know dude, that might be playing with fire. I would go with whaever the speaker is rated at, which I believe is 8 ohms.

    just my .02
    Living Room 2 Channel -
    Schiit SYS Passive Pre. Jolida CD player. Songbird streamer. California Audio Labs Sigma II DAC, DIY 300as1/a1 Ice modules Class D amp. LSi15 with MM842 woofer upgrade, Nordost Blue Heaven and Unity interconnects.

    Upstairs 2 Channel Rig -
    Prometheus Ref. TVC passive pre, SAE A-205 Amp, Wiim pro streamer and Topping E50 DAC, California Audio Labs DX1 CD player, Von Schweikert VR3.5 speakers.

    Studio Rig - Scarlett 18i20(Gen3) DAW, Mac Mini, Aiyma A07 Max (BridgedX2), Totem Mites
  • aaharvel
    aaharvel Posts: 4,489
    edited July 2006
    NEVER set an a/v receiver to 4ohms. Even if you have 4ohm speakers.
    H/K Signature 2.1+235
    Jungson MagicBoat II
    Revel Performa M-20
    Velodyne cht-10 sub
    Rega P1 Turntable

    "People working at Polk Audio must sit around the office and just laugh their balls off reading many of these comments." -Lush
  • Holydoc
    Holydoc Posts: 1,048
    edited July 2006
    MMcguire wrote:
    and if you actually measure the RTi12's impedance it is 4 ohms.

    It kills me that people keep saying this but the manufactorer, the one that makes this speaker, rates it at 8ohms. It is like someone at AVSForums started this rumor and now everyone takes it as truth.

    :confused:
    Holydoc (Home Theatre Lover)
    __________________________________________
    Panasonic -50PX600U 50" Plasma
    Onkyo -TX-NR901 Receiver
    Oppo -Oppo 980HD Universal DVD Player
    Outlaw -770 (7x200watt) Amplifier
    PolkAudio - RTi12 (Left and Right)
    PolkAudio - CSi5 (Center)
    PolkAudio - FXi3 (Back and Surround)
    SVS - PB-12/Plus (Subwoofer)
    Bluejean Cables - Interconnects
    Logitech Harmony 880 - Remote
  • unc2701
    unc2701 Posts: 3,587
    edited July 2006
    Yeah, someone probably hooked up an ohmmeter to it and that's what they got... which is really measuring the DC impedence of the crossover&drivers.

    Anyhow, aaharvel is right- that switch is there for UL purposes and restricts the amount of current that'll go throught the receiver. leave it at 8 and if you're worried, make sure that there's 5-8 inches of clearance around the amp so it has plenty of room to breathe.
    Gallo Ref 3.1 : Bryston 4b SST : Musical fidelity CD Pre : VPI HW-19
    Gallo Ref AV, Frankengallo Ref 3, LC60i : Bryston 9b SST : Meridian 565
    Jordan JX92s : MF X-T100 : Xray v8
    Backburner:Krell KAV-300i
  • Altmanfan
    Altmanfan Posts: 33
    edited July 2006
    aaharvel wrote:
    NEVER set an a/v receiver to 4ohms. Even if you have 4ohm speakers.

    So........if my AVR is only powering my backs, which are 8ohms, and is otherwise working as a pre to my Outlaw amp, which is powering the 4-ohm LSi series, the AVR setup should be set to 8ohms? Or 4ohms?
  • aaharvel
    aaharvel Posts: 4,489
    edited July 2006
    Altmanfan wrote:
    So........if my AVR is only powering my backs, which are 8ohms, and is otherwise working as a pre to my Outlaw amp, which is powering the 4-ohm LSi series, the AVR setup should be set to 8ohms? Or 4ohms?

    Already been answered. Welcome to the forums. :)

    Plus, it's possible that the rti12's are 4ohm speakers. Afterall, the lsi7 are 6ohm, yet Polk says they're 4ohm. Anyway, almost every speaker dips from 8,6 or 6 to 4 throughout the wavelength. Take the average, and you have your correct measurement.
    H/K Signature 2.1+235
    Jungson MagicBoat II
    Revel Performa M-20
    Velodyne cht-10 sub
    Rega P1 Turntable

    "People working at Polk Audio must sit around the office and just laugh their balls off reading many of these comments." -Lush
  • BIZILL
    BIZILL Posts: 5,432
    edited July 2006
    Altmanfan wrote:
    So........if my AVR is only powering my backs, which are 8ohms, and is otherwise working as a pre to my Outlaw amp, which is powering the 4-ohm LSi series, the AVR setup should be set to 8ohms? Or 4ohms?
    yup, you quoted your own answer.:rolleyes:

    POLK SDA-SRS 1.2TL -- ADCOM GFA-5802
    PANASONIC PT-AE4000U -- DIY WILSONART DW 135" 2.35:1 SCREEN
    ONKYO TX-SR805
    CENTER: CSI5
    MAINS: RTI8'S
    SURROUNDS: RTI8'S
    7.1 SURROUNDS: RTI6'S
    SUB: SVS PB12-PLUS/2 (12.3 series)

    XBOX 360
    WiiPS3/blu-rayTOSHIBA HD-A35 hd dvd

    http://polkarmy.com/forums/index.php
    bobman1235 wrote:
    I have no facts to back that up, but I never let facts get in the way of my arguments.
  • aaharvel
    aaharvel Posts: 4,489
    edited July 2006
    BIZILL wrote:
    yup, you quoted your own answer.:rolleyes:

    oh give 'em a break Bizill. At least he kept it under 6lines. :p
    H/K Signature 2.1+235
    Jungson MagicBoat II
    Revel Performa M-20
    Velodyne cht-10 sub
    Rega P1 Turntable

    "People working at Polk Audio must sit around the office and just laugh their balls off reading many of these comments." -Lush
  • BIZILL
    BIZILL Posts: 5,432
    edited July 2006
    :):p

    POLK SDA-SRS 1.2TL -- ADCOM GFA-5802
    PANASONIC PT-AE4000U -- DIY WILSONART DW 135" 2.35:1 SCREEN
    ONKYO TX-SR805
    CENTER: CSI5
    MAINS: RTI8'S
    SURROUNDS: RTI8'S
    7.1 SURROUNDS: RTI6'S
    SUB: SVS PB12-PLUS/2 (12.3 series)

    XBOX 360
    WiiPS3/blu-rayTOSHIBA HD-A35 hd dvd

    http://polkarmy.com/forums/index.php
    bobman1235 wrote:
    I have no facts to back that up, but I never let facts get in the way of my arguments.
  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited July 2006
    aaharvel wrote:
    NEVER set an a/v receiver to 4ohms. Even if you have 4ohm speakers.


    OK why?

    Speakers
    Carver Amazing Fronts
    CS400i Center
    RT800i's Rears
    Sub Paradigm Servo 15

    Electronics
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
    Parasound Halo A23
    Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
    Pioneer 79Avi DVD
    Sony CX400 CD changer
    Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
    WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR


  • aaharvel
    aaharvel Posts: 4,489
    edited July 2006
    disneyjoe7 wrote:
    OK why?
    see UNC's post.
    H/K Signature 2.1+235
    Jungson MagicBoat II
    Revel Performa M-20
    Velodyne cht-10 sub
    Rega P1 Turntable

    "People working at Polk Audio must sit around the office and just laugh their balls off reading many of these comments." -Lush
  • gregure
    gregure Posts: 871
    edited July 2006
    Impedance ratings by manufactuer's are supposed to be NOMINAL impedance. Every speaker dips and spikes in Ohm resistance due to certain frequencies requiring more or less current to produce. What's most important is the nominal level.
    Still, the lower the resistance, the better amp you need, regardless of nominal. Take my Vienna's for example. The nominal impedance is 4 Ohms, however their lowest measured resistance is around 2.8. Believe me, my B&K gets HOT when driving these babies. If I had a lesser receiver, it would probably shut down.
    Current System:

    Mitsubishi 30" LCD LT-3020 (for sale**)
    Vienna Acoustics Beethoven Concert Grand (Rosewood)-Mains (with Audioquest Mont Blanc cables)
    CSi5-Center (for sale**)
    FXi3-surrounds (for sale**)
    Martin Logan Depth-Sub
    B&K AVR 507
    Pimare CD21-CD Player
    Denon 1815-DVD Player
    Panamax M5500-EX-Line Conditioner
  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited July 2006
    aaharvel wrote:
    see UNC's post.


    Thanks sorry I missed this last week.

    Speakers
    Carver Amazing Fronts
    CS400i Center
    RT800i's Rears
    Sub Paradigm Servo 15

    Electronics
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
    Parasound Halo A23
    Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
    Pioneer 79Avi DVD
    Sony CX400 CD changer
    Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
    WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR


  • reeltrouble1
    reeltrouble1 Posts: 9,312
    edited July 2006
    State Farm--What your house burned down?

    PCM--Well, yea, I mean it was an ohm thing here see my post on my new computer, the old one burned up in the fire, can you send the check right away?

    State Farm--Gee, your in good hands there but this ain't Allstate, we are the Good Neighbor people, please see your policy neglingency paragrah, section 6.

    WAAAAAAAAAA..................j/k

    RT1
  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited July 2006
    Funny but to bad it maybe true.....

    Speakers
    Carver Amazing Fronts
    CS400i Center
    RT800i's Rears
    Sub Paradigm Servo 15

    Electronics
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
    Parasound Halo A23
    Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
    Pioneer 79Avi DVD
    Sony CX400 CD changer
    Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
    WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR


  • unc2701
    unc2701 Posts: 3,587
    edited July 2006
    Most AVR's these days have a thermal override, too, so the ohm switch is sorta redundant.
    Gallo Ref 3.1 : Bryston 4b SST : Musical fidelity CD Pre : VPI HW-19
    Gallo Ref AV, Frankengallo Ref 3, LC60i : Bryston 9b SST : Meridian 565
    Jordan JX92s : MF X-T100 : Xray v8
    Backburner:Krell KAV-300i